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Carpenter talk

Cowtown? That's a bit of a drive to go surfing! But I see that's a paddle board so I guess you have options.


Here's the 10' Grain I built on one of their courses.
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Currently it's decorating the stairs.
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Cowtown? That's a bit of a drive to go surfing! But I see that's a paddle board so I guess you have options.


Here's the 10' Grain I built on one of their courses.
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Currently it's decorating the stairs.
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looking good ! One of whos courses? I noticed the edges fancy painted what does that hide? Or is it purely decoration? My board lives at Mabel Lake B.C. where the whole family uses it. Edit I see now that Grain is a surf board company, my plan came from Sliver boards in Vancouver check em out.
 
I came across this deck that someone built on a house flip, up the road from me. It has been a few years since I did a deck for someone and the code is changing yearly, but I don't think this would ever pass an inspection. I noted some activity at the house recently, in the area of the deck, so maybe the local inspector called them out on it.

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Wow. PA ? Yikes!

45 years ago four year gig central PA big design build outfit. Among other things I drove to Harrisburg for project approvals from state. Times are achangin’
 
Yes Grain are in Maine. They did a couple of courses at Wooden Boat School but it wasn't a good fit so they moved the courses in house. Wooden Boat School is a neat place.

The fabric you see on the rails is there to cover a bit of error caused by the frame sections being off a bit in the kit. The construction is pretty much the same as yours.

In the 10' kits there where 2 frame pieces switched that caused the cove & bead rails to fold. I showed it to the owners in a photograph I took where you could totally see it. No worries mine came out good and the fabric ads a nice contrast.

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Frame spacing on mine....if you go back and look at my finished photo you will see a red accent strip ,it hides a top to side jagged edge! Nobody knows but now they do!
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Next up clearing out fallen trees. after the big blow we had the other day. These are right next to my apple orchard and have to go as soon as I can get at them, hoping to get a buddy to come help. The one on the right is larch and I think I can get 16' slices from it to do the sides of my stairs which will be great. 2 other big trees came down on the other side of my shed too so that gives me 4 or 5 big trees to get milled as 12' x 2" x6" for building my shed. The smaller stuff will get milled as 8' x 2"x 5" or 6" slats for finishing my fence.
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You mean my build thread on ADV? I've had a ton of my wood milled, damned cheap compared to buying. For what I do I don't give a shit about kiln dried. Today I cleared out 3 tress that were going to be in the way for these 2 and sitting back putting a little thought into it I think I have a plan to get them on the ground. Nothing some rope and a car won't fix. :lol3
 
Well, my carpenter life is a little different than most of you. I work commercial construction, generally 20 or fewer floors. This was setting hoarding walls for the temporary man lift, on the edge of the roof (13 stories up)
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Late night finishing up a concrete pour.
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And for something a little different...this house is 2 reefer trailers welded together, with the center wall cut out, landed on I beams on pilings, with trusses dropped on top. The deck is all Doug fir felled and milled on the property.
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Rough cut my 2" planks that are going to be my stairs. Started planing and sanding them. Of course not being an expert with the planer I cooked the belt and am waiting for new ones to come in. There is a little bit of warping/twisting happening but I don't think enough to matter. 2 planks left to go them we can think about the install. Thankfully I have a good buddy who's a carpenter and has a router to do the bullnose coming to help me.
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From the Firewood thread. Curved base board and shoe.
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All the millwork in the house is Carolina Tennessee White Oak. The base is 3/4 x 5 1/2.

The entire stove platform is just 2x spf and plywood. 3/4 plyform under the concrete. 1/4 around face of curve. Lots of interior structure. That old heater is heavy.

The base.
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Thin kerf blade on table saw rip off the top profile 13/16. Resaw the bottom to retain 1/8 face with bandsaw resaw specific blade. Resaw good 2x6 spf to get 5 pieces 1/8 x 4 1/4. Piece at a time titebond the 1/8 plys to the platform. Tops aligned and at correct level. First spf can be tacked to hold. The top white oak has to be pressed and held till titebond cures. Top edge of this site made curved ply will need to be joint planed fair and smooth. Old Stanley or Record shoulder rebate plane can do it. Heat the top profile. Slow carefully, titebond and old school brads, bend it into place. Original straight base appears - bent.

No client would ever pay for such a thing. 😉
 
I've made a lot of curved pieces like this over the years.
What you've done looks good from where I'm sitting.
I would start same as you, thin kerfblade in the tablesaw and take off that top profile.
But then set the blade depth stop on the sliding chop box and do a series of parallel crosscut kerfs on the b-side of the board deep enough to leave about 3/16" of the a-face every 3/4" or so. This will let that clean grained base board easily bend to that curve, but still be very solid.
Then reapplying the top profile piece that was ripped off, will hide all the kerfs made on the top of the base piece.
I've actually had lots of clients pay me for this type work. But it rarely was on a "normal" house. :lol3
 
I've made a lot of curved pieces like this over the years.
What you've done looks good from where I'm sitting.
I would start same as you, thin kerfblade in the tablesaw and take off that top profile.
But then set the blade depth stop on the sliding chop box and do a series of parallel crosscut kerfs on the b-side of the board deep enough to leave about 3/16" of the a-face every 3/4" or so. This will let that clean grained base board easily bend to that curve, but still be very solid.
Then reapplying the top profile piece that was ripped off, will hide all the kerfs made on the top of the base piece.
I've actually had lots of clients pay me for this type work. But it rarely was on a "normal" house. :lol3
This has worked a few times for me also and a few broken pieces along the way! Sadly most of my finish work ends up being MDF
 
I'm allergic to MDF! :lol3

Well, not really ................ but I certainly do despise working with it. (speaking of working with material that'll break easily!)
It's so nasty for my lungs NO MATTER how diligently I try to avoid it.

Most of the work I do here is in a ski resort "second home" market, so it's just ridiculous projects. Seems like every new owner is trying to outspend the last one. Sorta a pissing contest with $$. Again, ridiculous. I'm often reminded of a Steeley Dan lyric, "You wouldn't even know a diamond if you held it in your hand, the things you think are precious I just can't understand."

I think the most fun tasks that I've used the "crosscut kerfing" technique for was doing 2" x arch top garage door jambs. Usually with 2" x 8" red cedar or something similar. It's a lot of fun to put a nice controlled bend in a substantial piece of material.
 
I'm allergic to MDF! :lol3

Well, not really ................ but I certainly do despise working with it. (speaking of working with material that'll break easily!)
It's so nasty for my lungs NO MATTER how diligently I try to avoid it.

Most of the work I do here is in a ski resort "second home" market, so it's just ridiculous projects. Seems like every new owner is trying to outspend the last one. Sorta a pissing contest with $$. Again, ridiculous. I'm often reminded of a Steeley Dan lyric, "You wouldn't even know a diamond if you held it in your hand, the things you think are precious I just can't understand."

I think the most fun tasks that I've used the "crosscut kerfing" technique for was doing 2" x arch top garage door jambs. Usually with 2" x 8" red cedar or something similar. It's a lot of fun to put a nice controlled bend in a substantial piece of material.
Agree. Fuck mdf. A few pieces sure. But much more and it screws my lungs up
 
3M 6900 in the shop. Several 3M 6000, shop, barn with mowing machines. 79yo with tested lung function of 20yo.

Get over it. Mask up…
 
I did a little experiment with my new router. Trying to flatten some rough cut 30" cut offs. I made this just as an experiment. I did not even have the right bit. Still, for a first try it looks like I have the right basics.

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