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CRF250X Mega Thread

MVI

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DJ_MI

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Feb 7, 2022
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I picked up a 2005 250X on Thursday. Already plated in my state which is a huge bonus. I've only been riding a little over a year and currently have a KLX300. I've done all sorts of riding with the KLX but trails quickly became my favorite riding activity. The KLX made it around Evart and Bass Lake which are two of the more difficult loops here in MI. I've been impressed with its performance but wanted a second bike more as a spare so I can still ride if something happens to the KLX or when it's down for maintenance. After about 5 hours in the dirt yesterday on the CRFX I never realized what I was missing out on!

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DJ_MI

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Joined
Feb 7, 2022
Member Number
63
Posts
527
Location
M
I got a bunch of extras with it also which was cool. Brand new side plastics, a duplicate set of brand new handguards, all the OE parts that have been replaced (levers, shifter, filter cover, etc).

It also came with a unused Rekluse Core EXP 3.0 clutch kit (PN: RMS-7712) that I'm probably going to sell if anyone is interested.
 

DJ_MI

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Joined
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M
So I broke the bike already. It proved to be rock solid reliable for the first 3.5 days of ownership putting some miles on it on dirt roads and at work.

On Sunday I got good 4.5-5 hours in the mud, sand and trails in Mt. Morris MI. It ran strong and was awesome. I stopped by work and washed it with a electric power washer (jwaller sees where this is going :D) and then it wouldn't start afterward. I air gunned it thoroughly and fiddled with it for a while and got it started. It ran strong and I screwed around in the parking lot for a while before loading it up and bringing it home. Yesterday I was going to go for a rip and it would crank but not fire.


Symptoms:
Won't start.
Will crank and will occasionally pop and sputter.
The header pipe heats up so there's some kind of combustion going on.


Things I've tried:
I changed the spark plug and confirmed that it's sparking. The old one looked pretty rough. No change.
Inspected for loose hoses or chaffed wires. There's two disconnected hoses that appear to be vent hoses. There's no clamp marks and they aren't bulged or flared on the end like they were on a fitting.
I checked the kill switch for continuity and function. No problem there.
I drained the gas tank and the carb. I didn't find any obvious problem.
I was going to do a compression test but my tester is slightly too wide to fit down the spark plug recess.


I read that some people have better luck kick starting it when they couldn't get it running with the electric starter. I was able to get it running with the kicker but it wouldn't hold an idle. I went for a ride and it still feels strong and responsive. I shut it off a few times and tried to restart it immediately and it was hard to start each time.

I ordered a valve cover gasket and case plug o-ring earlier so I can check the valve clearance.

Anyone have any input?
 

Bearcat

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Joined
Jul 5, 2022
Member Number
1261
Posts
70
Location
Olympia, WA
So I broke the bike already. It proved to be rock solid reliable for the first 3.5 days of ownership putting some miles on it on dirt roads and at work.

On Sunday I got good 4.5-5 hours in the mud, sand and trails in Mt. Morris MI. It ran strong and was awesome. I stopped by work and washed it with a electric power washer (jwaller sees where this is going :D) and then it wouldn't start afterward. I air gunned it thoroughly and fiddled with it for a while and got it started. It ran strong and I screwed around in the parking lot for a while before loading it up and bringing it home. Yesterday I was going to go for a rip and it would crank but not fire.


Symptoms:
Won't start.
Will crank and will occasionally pop and sputter.
The header pipe heats up so there's some kind of combustion going on.


Things I've tried:
I changed the spark plug and confirmed that it's sparking. The old one looked pretty rough. No change.
Inspected for loose hoses or chaffed wires. There's two disconnected hoses that appear to be vent hoses. There's no clamp marks and they aren't bulged or flared on the end like they were on a fitting.
I checked the kill switch for continuity and function. No problem there.
I drained the gas tank and the carb. I didn't find any obvious problem.
I was going to do a compression test but my tester is slightly too wide to fit down the spark plug recess.


I read that some people have better luck kick starting it when they couldn't get it running with the electric starter. I was able to get it running with the kicker but it wouldn't hold an idle. I went for a ride and it still feels strong and responsive. I shut it off a few times and tried to restart it immediately and it was hard to start each time.

I ordered a valve cover gasket and case plug o-ring earlier so I can check the valve clearance.

Anyone have any input?
Valve clearance check is what also came to mind. I know the '04 models and maybe the '05s had some valve issues. It's worth researching. My old '08 had a lot of hours on it and it ran strong. I made an adapter for the leak down check by gutting an old spark plug, using epoxy and a chunk of Home Depot steel pipe hammered and twisted into it. :thumbIt was a complete hack job, but it worked! As you know that check will tell you a lot. I hope it's a minor issue and just a result from the pressure washing.
 
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