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ZoomerP

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As I was using the best glass cleaner I've ever had, I thought we could use a general detailing thread. Post products and techniques that work well for you, or ones that fail to live up to expectations. Questions posed to the subscribed neat freaks are also welcome, as are retailer recommendations.
 

ZoomerP

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Glass cleaner: McKee's 37 Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner

McKee's 37 sells a full array of products. I've used a few and they've always worked well, but a standout has been McKee's 37 Krystal Vision Glass Cleaner. I started with a sample bottle and quickly ordered a 22 oz. bottle. Combined with a good microfiber cloth, the stuff cuts through dried bugs and road swarf better than anything I've tried, such as Stoner Invisible Glass or Griott's Garage Ultra-Premium Glass Cleaner.

What really separates the McKee's product from the others I've used is that it flashes off without leaving a streaked mess of residue, inside or out. That's the problem I've usually had with other cleaners, even when using a microfiber cloth and a minimal amount of cleaner. Not having to go back over the glass multiple times to buff off streaks is a strong advantage to me. Highly recommended.

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ZoomerP

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Retailer: AutoGeek

I'd used another retailer for several years until they were absorbed by AutoGeek.

I haven't ordered from them lately, but they appear to still offer a wide array of products from top manufacturers at competitive prices. They also host a forum and provide a lot of quality DIY videos from professional detailers. It's easy to allow a site like that to drive you to chase the New Hotness (ceramic coatings comes to mind), but if you're willing to resist that temptation, I find AutoGeek to be a solid source for products and information for their use. They maintain a Motorcycle section, too.
 

ZoomerP

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Work platform: Werner Aluminum Pro Deck Work Platform, 300 lb capacity, AP-30

For easily reaching a car or truck roof, or working in a truck's engine bay one of these is very helpful. Unlike a 12" wide platform, the 16" width makes the platform much more stable to a side load, which is what you'll get when leaning over to reach something. The leg braces at the ends double as steps so you don't have to make it atop the 20.5" platform in one step. They're also helpful for other jobs, such as painting. I routinely use one for construction work.

There are other, similar models available at home stores, so I'd suggest giving them a try before picking one. I find the Werner products to be strong and stable, but you may find another platform works better for you. Try a 12" wide one and I think you'll agree that the savings over a 16" model isn't worth the lack of stability.

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Yinzer Moto

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Work platform: Werner Aluminum Pro Deck Work Platform, 300 lb capacity, AP-30

For easily reaching a car or truck roof, or working in a truck's engine bay one of these is very helpful. Unlike a 12" wide platform, the 16" width makes the platform much more stable to a side load, which is what you'll get when leaning over to reach something. The leg braces at the ends double as steps so you don't have to make it atop the 20.5" platform in one step. They're also helpful for other jobs, such as painting. I routinely use one for construction work.

There are other, similar models available at home stores, so I'd suggest giving them a try before picking one. I find the Werner products to be strong and stable, but you may find another platform works better for you. Try a 12" wide one and I think you'll agree that the savings over a 16" model isn't worth the lack of stability.

1652566886133.png

#vanlife requires a little bigger platform. This is how wash and wax day looks around here. :imaposer:imaposer

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Thanks for the glass cleaner recommendation, I will try some, the big windshield on the van is an undertaking to clean and it is disappointing when I can still see streaks. Last time I cleaned the windshield, I spent nearly an hour on it.

I have been using F11 Top Coat a couple times a year. They sell a cleaner that leaves a little polish behind, I use that in between Top Coat treatments.
 

ZoomerP

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When you need a scaffold, you need a scaffold. : )

McKee's makes an even more expensive glass cleaner with some ceramic magic in it. It's probably wonderful, but I have a rule about using up what I have before trying something new.
 

FLrider

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With a van like that, I'd have at least the roof wrapped so that bird shit doesn't destroy the paint. I have enough trouble as it is with our cars.... F'n birds just know when the car just got cleaned/waxed and think it's Bukake poo time.... :becca
 

DJ_MI

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Using black & white pages from a newspaper help get the film off the inside of windows easier. The paper seems to collect the residue instead of smearing it around like paper towel or cloth.
 

Camhead64

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I'm a fan of Meguiars "Ultimate Liquid Wax", wont leave a white residue on the black plastic trim and gives a nice deep shine. Also a fan of Meguiars "Back to Black" black plastic trim restorer, easy on, easy off and lasts a few wash's.
 

JimVonBaden

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I'm a fan of Meguiars "Ultimate Liquid Wax", wont leave a white residue on the black plastic trim and gives a nice deep shine. Also a fan of Meguiars "Back to Black" black plastic trim restorer, easy on, easy off and lasts a few wash's.
I also use Meguires Ultimate, and used to use Back to Black, until I discovered this:
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Not greasy, lasts for a LONG time, removes wax residue. It is the beast I have ever seen. Not just for tires.
CZ3YYv.jpg
 

Camhead64

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Thanks Jim, will have to give that a try.

Anyone wanting to stay with pure wax should try Collinite 885 Fleetwax. I use it on the boat, car, and have used it on the bike. Hard stuff, great shine, deep gloss.
 

matty

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Without starting a dedicated thread for this, could you please share your thoughts experience or insight into preventing or more to the point slowing oxidization/ rust on exhaust headers/ front pipes and silencers that have been polished to bare metal. I am curently wipeing them down with diesel and a tenth EP80 gear oil mix, its more effective than WD 40 and does not dry and gum up like WD40 either. I thought about Cleaning them and going over them lightly with a heat gun before oiling.
Any thoughts and insight please.
 

ZoomerP

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I don't have any experience with that, but it's not an easy one. A ceramic coating is the only thing I can think of that won't flash off like an oil and will last a long time.
 

matty

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I don't have any experience with that, but it's not an easy one. A ceramic coating is the only thing I can think of that won't flash off like an oil and will last a long time.
I am far from sure that any such rust retarder on bare metal exists. But I have wildfowled in salt spray rain and salty mud ,
which had metal parts protected with nothing more than carefully cleaned degreased and then controled rusted and only light oiling to prevent that oxodised finnish from becoming out of control rust.
Its only relatively recently we started to get various ceramics and hydro dip type coatings on such civilian weopons.
Some of the most rust resiliant bare metal traditional gun parts are the colour hardened actions and plain polished trigger guards that were then heat treated but left silver. .
I was me others might have had much more insight into this subject than me. . not all blacking blueing and browning of guns is acchieved by caustic salts or canning black which is little mre than a basic far from resiliant matt black that sole purpose is to prelong shelf life on bolts etc.
I know cleaning as in polishing then heating with just a heat gun the oiling will slow it down and slow it down markedly more than just oiling post clean. It could be the heating is sort of the good rusting in its infancy and then oiling seals the deal as with the traditional guns blue/ blacking.
Any ideas folks.
 

ZoomerP

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I looked into Woolwax, and as I thought, exhaust heat would be high enough to make it flash off.


"Lanolin responds very quickly to heat. The flash point for Woolwax® is 202° C or 395° F. It will start to smoke and burn off at 100° C or 212° F."
 

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