The only time I ever needed to jump my old DRZ was when I first got it before I put the kick starter on it, never had an issue with batteries dying after that annoyingly(?) enough lol I still hate that bike lolI put an Antigravity battery in my DRZ. The "self-jumping" capability takes care of this, in my mind. Only had to use it once, and it was at home, so hardly a real test. Not only does this keep me from carrying a jumper pack, the battery itself is astonishingly light.
I read that self-jumping bit and was like .I put an Antigravity battery in my DRZ. The "self-jumping" capability takes care of this, in my mind. Only had to use it once, and it was at home, so hardly a real test. Not only does this keep me from carrying a jumper pack, the battery itself is astonishingly light.
In my other vehicles I use one of those amazing "batteryless" capacitor-based jump starters, and they work well. It would be hard to beat the size of the one that 87warrior posted, though.
Edit: I'm a total noob. Going on my first adventure ride in a month, so take any of my advice with a chunk of salt.
It’s a bit of marketing fluff, but there’s real value in how it works. Lithium batteries can be computer controlled through a Battery Management System (BMS). This BMS has a low-voltage cutoff. So it simply shuts the battery down when it still has enough energy left in the battery to start the bike a couple more times. So, if you have a parasitic drain, it puts a hard stop on that power loss. Now your bike can get zero power off the battery. You push the button on top of the battery to tell it you need the power now, and presto, the bike starts up, and slowly starts charging the battery.
Good point. Many people have claimed that any amount of current applied to it will function the same as pushing the button. As in, pushing the bike and getting a very small engine bump will then reset the battery for the self-jumping, without disassembling to get to the battery, or without pushing the thing enough to get a traditional bump start.It's only "handy" if you can get to the battery without disassembling a large portion of the machine. At that point it's just as easy to use a jumper battery or, as I did install a pig-tail for easy access for both jumping & recharging.
In person. I was leaving the warehouse we pull equipment from ( HVAC) and I saw another contractor with his hood up. Asked if he needed anything and he said no while yelling at his partner to hit the key. VroomInteresting. Was that a video or in person?
Same here. Granted, most of my experience is with AC voltage working with HVAC my whole life, but I can't see DC voltage making much of a difference in this regard. I suppose the drill battery is just dumping energy in to the pre-existing battery and the original battery cables on the vehicles are still the ones doing the heavy lifting.Surprising. I figured the current demand would've smoked the terminal or cheesy wire almost instantaneously.
Not bagging on this company, just using it as a comparison since it was linked to in this thread and I was too lazy to look elsewhere for a price comparison.I've got the Noco Boost, Noco Genius 5 Charger, and the CB007 cable with converter plug & love'em!
The Kymco AK550 eats batteries for breakfast and is the coldest cranking machine I've ever seen! She REALLY doesn't want to get up in the AM on cold winter daze. My mechanic installed the cable that ends up in the (R) glove box and the converter plug allows me to charge & repair the battery without taking off the whole front end. But, no, I don't carry the booster with me.
BTW, for Noco's site Click Here
That's kinda why I wanted to look in to this further. I figured many of us already have tool batteries that we use pretty often. Aside from saving money, it also cures the issue of your booster setup going dead from lack of use. I'm constantly charging and swapping out drill batteries so it's easy to be confident you've got a freshie on hand.Well Hell, I have stacks of 20V Batteries . Thank You for the info !!