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Jump that bike ( boost box )

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What has been your experience with boost boxes compatible with AGM and the new LI batteries.

And do you carry it on the bike for multi day trips?

What works? What doesn't?

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Simmons1 turned me onto this hardwired cable with a diode for a hard to access battery

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I've got the Harbor Freight version which looks just like yours just different power & boost button positions and different led colors. I haven't used it to boost my bike, PO had left the battery terminals very loose, it's fine now. I have used the boost box as a USB power bank for my phone and GPS, lots of capacity there.
 
I've got the Noco Boost, Noco Genius 5 Charger, and the CB007 cable with converter plug & love'em!

The Kymco AK550 eats batteries for breakfast and is the coldest cranking machine I've ever seen! She REALLY doesn't want to get up in the AM on cold winter daze. My mechanic installed the cable that ends up in the (R) glove box and the converter plug allows me to charge & repair the battery without taking off the whole front end. But, no, I don't carry the booster with me.

BTW, for Noco's site Click Here
noco Genius 5.jpg
Noco CB007.jpg
 
I have the Tusk jump pack. It packs fairly compact (important on a WR250R) and doubles as a USB battery pack. Yes, I take it on trips. The thing even comes with a USB cable that can charge darn near anything. I haven't needed to use it on the bike, yet, but I did boost my 4cyl Jeep with it and it worked fine.

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I put an Antigravity battery in my DRZ. The "self-jumping" capability takes care of this, in my mind. Only had to use it once, and it was at home, so hardly a real test. Not only does this keep me from carrying a jumper pack, the battery itself is astonishingly light.

In my other vehicles I use one of those amazing "batteryless" capacitor-based jump starters, and they work well. It would be hard to beat the size of the one that 87warrior posted, though.


Edit: I'm a total noob. Going on my first adventure ride in a month, so take any of my advice with a chunk of salt.
 
I put an Antigravity battery in my DRZ. The "self-jumping" capability takes care of this, in my mind. Only had to use it once, and it was at home, so hardly a real test. Not only does this keep me from carrying a jumper pack, the battery itself is astonishingly light.
The only time I ever needed to jump my old DRZ was when I first got it before I put the kick starter on it, never had an issue with batteries dying after that annoyingly(?) enough lol I still hate that bike lol
 
I put an Antigravity battery in my DRZ. The "self-jumping" capability takes care of this, in my mind. Only had to use it once, and it was at home, so hardly a real test. Not only does this keep me from carrying a jumper pack, the battery itself is astonishingly light.

In my other vehicles I use one of those amazing "batteryless" capacitor-based jump starters, and they work well. It would be hard to beat the size of the one that 87warrior posted, though.


Edit: I'm a total noob. Going on my first adventure ride in a month, so take any of my advice with a chunk of salt.
I read that self-jumping bit and was like :scratch .

But here it is:


News to me.
 
I read that self-jumping bit and was like :scratch .

But here it is:


News to me.
It’s a bit of marketing fluff, but there’s real value in how it works. Lithium batteries can be computer controlled through a Battery Management System (BMS). This BMS has a low-voltage cutoff. So it simply shuts the battery down when it still has enough energy left in the battery to start the bike a couple more times. So, if you have a parasitic drain, it puts a hard stop on that power loss. Now your bike can get zero power off the battery. You push the button on top of the battery to tell it you need the power now, and presto, the bike starts up, and slowly starts charging the battery.

Handy as hell.
 
Not that I am complaining, though probably am jinxing myself, the thing with any jumper pack I've owned is that it dies without ever seeing much use.

The notion of 'on board' jump capability is very appealing.
 
It's only "handy" if you can get to the battery without disassembling a large portion of the machine. At that point it's just as easy to use a jumper battery or, as I did install a pig-tail for easy access for both jumping & recharging.
 
It's only "handy" if you can get to the battery without disassembling a large portion of the machine. At that point it's just as easy to use a jumper battery or, as I did install a pig-tail for easy access for both jumping & recharging.
Good point. Many people have claimed that any amount of current applied to it will function the same as pushing the button. As in, pushing the bike and getting a very small engine bump will then reset the battery for the self-jumping, without disassembling to get to the battery, or without pushing the thing enough to get a traditional bump start.

I haven’t confirmed this claim, though.
 
I recently watched a guy jump his 6.0 Powerstroke work truck with a DeWalt drill battery with what looked like speaker wire pushed in one terminal. Didn't struggle a bit..

I'm pretty sure they're ripping us off on jump packs.

If you can jump a V8 diesel off a hand drill I swear we should be able to start a bike with our phone batteries 😁
 
Interesting. Was that a video or in person?
In person. I was leaving the warehouse we pull equipment from ( HVAC) and I saw another contractor with his hood up. Asked if he needed anything and he said no while yelling at his partner to hit the key. Vroom

"....did you just jump that with a drill battery?"

He popped it back in the drill and zapped the trigger a few times in a " it's all good" sorta way with a shit eating grin on his face.

"Damn", was all I could say. 😁
 
Surprising. I figured the current demand would've smoked the terminal or cheesy wire almost instantaneously.
Same here. Granted, most of my experience is with AC voltage working with HVAC my whole life, but I can't see DC voltage making much of a difference in this regard. I suppose the drill battery is just dumping energy in to the pre-existing battery and the original battery cables on the vehicles are still the ones doing the heavy lifting.
 
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I've got the Noco Boost, Noco Genius 5 Charger, and the CB007 cable with converter plug & love'em!

The Kymco AK550 eats batteries for breakfast and is the coldest cranking machine I've ever seen! She REALLY doesn't want to get up in the AM on cold winter daze. My mechanic installed the cable that ends up in the (R) glove box and the converter plug allows me to charge & repair the battery without taking off the whole front end. But, no, I don't carry the booster with me.

BTW, for Noco's site Click Here
noco Genius 5.jpg
Noco CB007.jpg
Not bagging on this company, just using it as a comparison since it was linked to in this thread and I was too lazy to look elsewhere for a price comparison.

Their 5ah booster is $150. You can get a pair of 5ah DeWalt drill batteries off eBay for $50 delivered. Might be useful to someone willing to do some diy cabling. 5ah is 5ah after all.
 
Well Hell, I have stacks of 20V Batteries . Thank You for the info !!
That's kinda why I wanted to look in to this further. I figured many of us already have tool batteries that we use pretty often. Aside from saving money, it also cures the issue of your booster setup going dead from lack of use. I'm constantly charging and swapping out drill batteries so it's easy to be confident you've got a freshie on hand.

I'm also one of those weird conservationist types that's kinda bummed out about how lithium batteries are produced, so limiting wastefulness in regards to this particular resource is something that I take in to consideration as well.
 
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