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Kawasaki KLX250 / KLX300 Thread
- Thread starter DJ_MI
- Start date
Don't know, the odometer rolled over many times though. At the time I was using it for a commuter. Like 150 miles a week for 5 years plus desert and Baja trips. Last couple years it got replaced with a KLR for commuter duty.
Three more weeks in the shop and seemingly no closer to an answer about my bike, I pulled it out and went up the road a bit to a powersports dealership who also sells Kawasaki to see what I could trade my KLX300 on. I was hoping maybe a KLX300R or a CRF250F. They had neither in stock, but they had a used 2021 CRF250RX which followed me home. I'll miss the good times with the KLX300, but I think I got a bike actually better suited to the riding I'm doing now, completely off road.
Y'all have better luck with your KLXs than I did!
Y'all have better luck with your KLXs than I did!
Whaaaaat!? A burnt valve at 3400 miles on a fuel injected bike and they claim it's because you rode the bike too easy and created carbon buildup? That's crazy.
I'm glad they fixed the bike for you, but I feel like their claim is suspicious.
Does the bike use oil? Did it smoke on start up before they did work on it?
Anyway, nice curb hop in the gif! That was great!
The curb hop in the gif was DJ_MI, not me.
They 'fixed' the bike, only for it to start doing the same thing the first weekend I got to ride it again after getting it back out of the shop. I immediately put it back in the shop, that was three weeks ago yesterday, and didn't hear from them. On Friday I called and asked and was told that the mechanic for the shop was in a motorcycle accident and unable to work and they didn't know when he'd actually be able to look at my bike again. So yesterday morning I pulled it out of that Kawasaki shop and took it to another one about 20 miles up the road. They said they believe that maybe the fuel pump is bad. Anyway, I told them I was tired of a bike that was unreliable (In 14 months of ownership, it spent about 10 weeks in the shop) and wanted something lighter anyway, since I don't even ride it on the street. I was willing to go the route of a KLX300R but they didn't have one available. They had the 2021 Honda CRF250RX that was lightly used and heavily farkled for just a bit more than a new KLX300R, so why not?
The Honda is on a whole other level off road compared to the KLX300. The KLX is great for what it is but the Honda is just......Whoo! Sixty pounds lighter with almost double the horsepower to the rear wheel.
To answer the questions about oil and stuff, no the bike never burned oil or smoked upon start up. It ran great until it didn't. I can't dog the bike too much. I loved it until it started acting up on me. It was fun to ride and I think it was a great way to get my foot in the door off road, considering I'm one of those who previously had been a street rider for 20+ years. If I had started off road on something like the CRF I just got, I'd probably have scared myself too much or hurt myself early and decided off roading isn't for me (I think that's the story for the previous owner of the CRF).
Punkinhead
Well-known member
How many miles per tank are people getting? I did 88 miles of dirt/gravel roads this morning on my new KLX300 but haven't topped it off yet to compute mileage.
Edit:. To answer my own question, it took 1.2 gallons to fill up so it looks like about 73 MPG. That means I should get about 140 miles per tank and should probably start looking for a gas station at 110 or 120.
Edit:. To answer my own question, it took 1.2 gallons to fill up so it looks like about 73 MPG. That means I should get about 140 miles per tank and should probably start looking for a gas station at 110 or 120.
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I've owned my KLX300 for just over a year now and figured I'd give my feedback for anyone who is considering buying one.
I'm a new rider. I had a couple sport bikes several decades ago but never had anything offroad capable. Last year when I decided to get back into it I knew I wanted something I could use on trails and around town so a dual sport was the only choice.
I am continually impressed with this bike! I've racked up 8,300 miles in the first year which includes a lot of around town riding, exploring dirt roads, one long road trip and a lot of trail riding.
On the road I feel that it has sufficient power. It seems unhappy to cruise at freeway speeds but it will do it, however the wind and darty handling quickly become taxing.
I've found that the KLX is very capable on the trails. I've ridden some of the most difficult trails in Michigan and the bike has made it through everything so far and I'm sure still has a lot of untapped ability. I road Evart Motorcycle Trail a couple of weeks ago which is supposed to be the hardest trail in the lower peninsula. It was a serious struggle for me, but the bike didn't complain.
Here's what Michigan roots can look like:
One of the more memorable climbs at Evart:
An example of the miles and miles of whoops found on most MI trails. At least these wheren't 'sugar sand' like a lot of them are:
Yep, it'll do sand:
And Mud:
And it'll do snow:
And it'll take quit a beating:
From the current dual sport offerings in this price range I absolutely think the KLX can't be beat. I highly recommend it for anyone looking for a bike in this class!
I'm a new rider. I had a couple sport bikes several decades ago but never had anything offroad capable. Last year when I decided to get back into it I knew I wanted something I could use on trails and around town so a dual sport was the only choice.
I am continually impressed with this bike! I've racked up 8,300 miles in the first year which includes a lot of around town riding, exploring dirt roads, one long road trip and a lot of trail riding.
On the road I feel that it has sufficient power. It seems unhappy to cruise at freeway speeds but it will do it, however the wind and darty handling quickly become taxing.
I've found that the KLX is very capable on the trails. I've ridden some of the most difficult trails in Michigan and the bike has made it through everything so far and I'm sure still has a lot of untapped ability. I road Evart Motorcycle Trail a couple of weeks ago which is supposed to be the hardest trail in the lower peninsula. It was a serious struggle for me, but the bike didn't complain.
Here's what Michigan roots can look like:
One of the more memorable climbs at Evart:
An example of the miles and miles of whoops found on most MI trails. At least these wheren't 'sugar sand' like a lot of them are:
Yep, it'll do sand:
And Mud:
And it'll do snow:
And it'll take quit a beating:
From the current dual sport offerings in this price range I absolutely think the KLX can't be beat. I highly recommend it for anyone looking for a bike in this class!
I know you don't have the bike anymore but I just wanted to say that from your videos the bike appeared to run as if there was some water in the gas. I've seen this a time or two. The EFI on these small DS bikes don't seem to be able to cope with that. My friend drowned her Yamaha XT250 and it ran the same way until the fuel tank was drained and replaced with known-good gas.
Sean
I know you don't have the bike anymore but I just wanted to say that from your videos the bike appeared to run as if there was some water in the gas. I've seen this a time or two. The EFI on these small DS bikes don't seem to be able to cope with that. My friend drowned her Yamaha XT250 and it ran the same way until the fuel tank was drained and replaced with known-good gas.
Sean
That's possible. After a year and ~8,000 miles my bike will often have a little wetness outside of the fuel cap seal on the top of the tank when I open it after a ride to refuel. If a little fuel is seeping past I'd have to believe that water could get in under the right conditions.
Here's a list of part numbers for commonly replaced parts. This is all for the 2021 KLX300 KLX300DNFAN but should be the same for others. The right-most column is marked with a 'Y' if it's the same PN as the 2020 KLX250.
| Cat | Part_Number | NmMod | QTY | MyNotes | MSRP | xRefFit w/ 2020 KLX250? |
| Air Cleaner | 11013-0030 | ELEMENT - AIR FILTER | 1 | $42.47 | Y | |
| Brake Pedal | 43001-0110 | LEVER - BRAKE, PEDAL | 1 | $71.40 | Y | |
| Brake Pedal | 550AA2525 | PIN-COTTER, 2.5X25 | 1 | Cotter Pin (2.5x25mm) Brake Pedal | $1.03 | Y |
| Brake Pedal | 92055-0168 | RING-O, OD=18.5 | 2 | $13.14 | Y | |
| Cables | 54011-0653 | CABLE - CLUTCH | 1 | |||
| Clutch | 13088-0042 | PLATE - FRICTION | 7 | $16.32 | Y | |
| Clutch | 92145-0637 | SPRING | 6 | $11.80 | Y | |
| Crankcase | 11061-0222 | GASKET, 10.5X16X2 | 1 | Oil Drain Plug Gasket | $4.67 | Y |
| Crankcase | 92066-0143 | PLUG, DRAIN | 1 | Oil Drain Plug | $3.07 | Y |
| Cylinder Head | 11061-0890 | GASKET, REED VALVE | 2 | Removed! Group w PAIRs Valve | $3.25 | Y |
| Engine Cover(s) | 12053-1337 | GUIDE - CHAIN | 1 | Steel Guide on Counter Sprocket | $10.84 | Y |
| Footrests | 550AA2515 | PIN-COTTER, 2.5X15 | 2 | Cotter Pin (2.5x15mm) | $0.29 | Y |
| Frame Fittings | 12053-0001 | GUIDE - CHAIN | 1 | $8.58 | Y | |
| Frame Fittings | 92122-1153 | ROLLER, CHAIN GUIDE | 1 | $8.74 | Y | |
| Front Brake | 41080-0186-CM | DISC, FR, SILVER | 1 | $235.38 | Y | |
| Front Master Cylinder | 46092-1140 | LEVER - GRIP, FRONT BRAKE | 1 | $17.34 | Y | |
| Gear Change Mechanism | 13156-1480 | LEVER - CHANGE, PEDAL | 1 | $49.22 | Y | |
| Handlebar | 13280-0105 | HOLDER, CLUTCH LEVER | 1 | $30.47 | Y | |
| Handlebar | 46003-0789-18R | HANDLE, F.S.BLACK | 1 | |||
| Handlebar | 46019-0026 | GRIP-ASSY, THROTTLE | 1 | $32.80 | Y | |
| Handlebar | 46075-0082 | GRIP, LH | 1 | $23.94 | Y | |
| Handlebar | 46092-0050 | LEVER - GRIP, CLUTCH | 1 | $5.40 | Y | |
| Handlebar | 56001-1285 | MIRROR - ASSY | 2 | $51.05 | Y | |
| Handlebar | 92210-1551 | NUT, LOCK, 6MM | 1 | Clutch Lever Lock Nut | ||
| Muffler(s) | 11061-1055 | GASKET, EXHAUST PIPE CONNECTING | 1 | Cylindrical Gasket Btw Header and Muffler | $13.92 | |
| Oil Pump | 52010-1053 | ELEMENT - OIL FILTER | 1 | $7.40 | Y | |
| Oil Pump | 92055-1577 | RING-O, 52.6X2.4 | 1 | $3.84 | Y | |
| Oil Pump | 92144-1761 | SPRING - OIL FILTER | 1 | $3.84 | Y | |
| Owner's Tools | 92104-0004 | GASKET-LIQUID, TB1211F, CLEAR | 1 | $79.24 | Y | |
| Owner's Tools | 92104-1064 | GASKET-LIQUID, TB1216B, BLACK | 1 | $81.18 | Y | |
| Radiator | 92153-0502 | BOLT, 6X20 | 2 | Side Plastic; Lower Front (Longer Bolt) | $2.30 | Y |
| Radiator | 92153-0503 | BOLT, 6X12 | 4 | Side Plastic; Top & Rear (Shorter Bolts) | $2.30 | Y |
| Rear Fender(s) | 35019-0691 | FLAP, RR | 1 | |||
| Rear Hub | 410AA0800 | WASHER-PLAIN-SMALL, 8MM | 6 | Rear Sprocket Bolt Washer | Y | |
| Rear Hub | 42041-0183 | SPROCKET-HUB, 40T | 1 | |||
| Rear Hub | 550AA3025 | PIN-COTTER, 3.0X25 | 1 | Cotter Pin (3.0x25mm) Rear Hub | $0.40 | Y |
| Rear Hub | 92015-1770 | NUT, LOCK, 20MM | 1 | Rear Axle Nut | $23.22 | Y |
| Rear Hub | 92057-0019 | CHAIN, DRIVE, EK520SR - O2X106L | 1 | ENUMA EK520SR02 (106 Links) | ||
| Rear Hub | 92058-1102 | JOINT - CHAIN, DRIVE | 1 | |||
| Rear Hub | 92154-4183 | BOLT, SOCKET, 8X28 | 6 | Rear Sprocket Bolt | ||
| Rear Hub | 92210-0493 | NUT, FLANGED, LOCK, 8MM | 6 | $6.11 | Y | |
| Rear Master Cylinder | 550AA2015 | PIN-COTTER, 2.0X15 | 1 | Cotter Pin (2.0x25mm) Rear Master Cylinder | $0.83 | Y |
| Swingarm | 12053-1270 | GUIDE-CHAIN, DRIVE, RR, INSIDE | 1 | $37.24 | Y | |
| Swingarm | 12053-1328 | GUIDE-CHAIN, DRIVE, FR | 1 | $40.40 | Y | |
| Transmission | 13144-0586 | SPROCKET-OUTPUT, 14T | 1 | |||
| Transmission | 92055-0196 | RING-O, 21.5X1.5 | 1 | Counter-Sprocket rear washer (rep) | $3.64 | Y |
| Transmission | 92200-0851 | WASHER | 1 | Behind Counter Sprocket | $4.96 | Y |
| Turn Signals | 23037-0418 | LAMP - ASSY - SIGNAL, RR, LH | 1 | $40.55 | Y | |
| Turn Signals | 23037-0419 | LAMP - ASSY - SIGNAL, RR, RH | 1 | $40.55 | Y | |
| Turn Signals | 23037-0456 | LAMP - ASSY - SIGNAL, FR, LH | 1 | $58.05 | Y | |
| Turn Signals | 23037-0457 | LAMP - ASSY - SIGNAL, FR, RH | 1 | $58.05 | Y | |
| Water Pipe | 39062-0911 | HOSE - COOLING, FITTING - RAD. LH | 1 | |||
| Water Pipe | 39062-0912 | HOSE - COOLING, RAD .RH - w/ PUMP | 1 | Long Hose (Right Side) | ||
| Water Pipe | 39062-0918 | HOSE - COOLING, RAD. LH - RAD. RH | 1 | |||
| Water Pipe | 39062-0919 | HOSE - COOLING, w/ PUMP - CYLINDER | 1 | Short 'S' Hose (Right Side) | ||
| Wheels/Tires | 41009-0781 | TIRE, FR, 3.00-21 51P, D605 FG(D) | 1 | $123.22 | Y | |
| Wheels/Tires | 41009-0782 | TIRE, RR, 4.60-18 63P, D605G(D) | 1 | $127.87 | Y | |
| Wheels/Tires | 41022-0095 | TUBE-TIRE, 3.00-21(D), SNI | 1 | $41.96 | ||
| Wheels/Tires | 41022-0096 | TUBE-TIRE, 4.60-18(D), SNI | 1 | $32.27 | ||
| Wheels/Tires | 41023-1144 | BAND-RIM, 21XWM1.60-1.85(D) | 1 | $12.04 | Y | |
| Wheels/Tires | 41023-1145 | BAND-RIM, 18XWM/MT 1.85-2.15(D) | 1 | $12.04 | Y |
And these are the four parts I take on the trail with me:
These are the two hoses I carry. They seem vulnerable to punctures or tears. I'm surprised I haven't had it happen yet.
An lighter weight and cheaper alternative would be to carry a small straight connector and two clamps to cut and patch a puncture in the hose.
| Cat | Part_Number | NmMod | QTY | MyNotes |
| Gear Change Mechanism | 13156-1480 | LEVER - CHANGE, PEDAL | 1 | |
| Handlebar | 46092-0050 | LEVER - GRIP, CLUTCH | 1 | |
| Water Pipe | 39062-0912 | HOSE - COOLING, RAD .RH - w/ PUMP | 1 | Long Hose (Right Side) |
| Water Pipe | 39062-0919 | HOSE - COOLING, w/ PUMP - CYLINDER | 1 | Short 'S' Hose (Right Side) |
These are the two hoses I carry. They seem vulnerable to punctures or tears. I'm surprised I haven't had it happen yet.
An lighter weight and cheaper alternative would be to carry a small straight connector and two clamps to cut and patch a puncture in the hose.
That was a consideration, and the tank was emptied and refilled with fresh, ethanol free gasoline. That seemed like the cure, for a mile or so. But that's the way it was for just about everything I tried. I remove and clean the air filter, remove the gas tank and inspect all the hoses and then everything seemed okay until I got out of the neighborhood. Then the bike had the top end rebuilt and it seemed good for a day of riding on pavement. But the first weekend I took it off road, after approximately one to two hours of riding, it stalled once out of nowhere, but then started right back up. Several minutes later, I did a small jump and the engine just died when I landed. In the last few weeks that I've been house bound due to injury and illness, I went back and watched the video that was shooting on that last ride. I had double take mirrors and they were folded down, obscuring my view of the dash. When the bike stopped after that jump and then did nothing when I hit the starter button, I looked behind the mirror and saw the low fuel light. I thought I was out of gasoline. My buddy rode on to get his truck. After he left, I got off the bike and rocked it around and could hear sloshing, so I got back on the bike and tried starting it. Nothing. At. All. I opened the gas tank (venting issue?) closed it and then tried again to start the bike. Absolutely nothing. And when I say nothing, I mean no starter turning the bike over or anything like that. The only thing getting power seems to have been the dash. I fiddled with the kill switch some, kickstand up and down a few times, shifting through gears and back to neutral, rocking the bike. Eventually, spontaneously, there was power and the bike started right up. I gently rode it up to the front of the property, getting there right as my buddy was getting in his truck. We loaded the bike in the back of his truck and took it to a station. It took only 1.5 gallons to fill it, meaning the low fuel light had probably only just come on right before the engine died.I know you don't have the bike anymore but I just wanted to say that from your videos the bike appeared to run as if there was some water in the gas. I've seen this a time or two. The EFI on these small DS bikes don't seem to be able to cope with that. My friend drowned her Yamaha XT250 and it ran the same way until the fuel tank was drained and replaced with known-good gas.
Sean
The next morning, I tried to ride and was getting all the symptoms it gave me before the top end rebuild. Looking back on that video with some distance and time removed from the incident, there was clearly some electrical gremlin. That's why every time I fiddled around under the seat, whether getting into the airbox or changing the fuel, or checking the spark plug, I was moving wires. Some electrical contact was closing a circuit completely until vibration from the motor at higher revs or bumps in the road or trail broke the circuit or made it weak. Obviously, the mechanics who worked on the bike moved things around too. But the off-road riding broke the circuit again. I think the electrical paths to the starter, fuel pump, and ignition system was compromised, maybe from when I washed the bike. But, even if that was the case, that started after just a mild rinse off with a standard garden hose to get the really big mud off the wheels, tires, fenders, and skid plate. It wasn't pressurized water, meaning it could have also been started just as easily if I'd ridden in the rain. I think I was just unlucky with that particular bike, and maybe I was equally unlucky with the quality of the mechanic at the dealership I bought the bike from. Who knows?
Anyway, here's the clip from the last ride. I edited out about a minute or so of swearing and carrying on as I was trying to figure out what was happening. After the bike dies, watch my right hand as I go for the starter and all that. I didn't even think about all that at the time. But the distance and time removed makes it all much clearer to me. I never even watched that video until after I'd given up on the bike (mostly due to how I felt I was being mistreated by the dealership). The flame out is at 4:20. No, that was NOT intentional!
Bearcat
Well-known member
I know you sold the bike and I'm not trying to pick you apart, please don't take it that way. A common practice with any dirt bike is to just hand tighten the clutch and brake perches enough that they will rotate if the bike falls over, you crash etc. Give them a good bump with your hand and they will rotate out of the way. Bark buster-hand guards help also. You just have to check them periodically. I have not snapped a perch nor lever in over 40 years of doing this. If you crash harder than that you have bigger problems.And these are the four parts I take on the trail with me:
Cat Part_Number NmMod QTY MyNotes Gear Change Mechanism 13156-1480 LEVER - CHANGE, PEDAL 1 Handlebar 46092-0050 LEVER - GRIP, CLUTCH 1 Water Pipe 39062-0912 HOSE - COOLING, RAD .RH - w/ PUMP 1 Long Hose (Right Side) Water Pipe 39062-0919 HOSE - COOLING, w/ PUMP - CYLINDER 1 Short 'S' Hose (Right Side)
These are the two hoses I carry. They seem vulnerable to punctures or tears. I'm surprised I haven't had it happen yet.
An lighter weight and cheaper alternative would be to carry a small straight connector and two clamps to cut and patch a puncture in the hose.
A decent skid plate will protect the lower portions of your radiator hoses. Yes, there is always a chance a branch could slide in there and cause havoc but it's rare. Radiator guards is money better spent as well. Putting a decent trailside tool kit together is another good expenditure of effort, bike specific, trial and error on that. That's another thread topic in itself.
Like I said I'm not trying to be a jerk just passing on what what's worked for me over the decades... so far so good!
Oh yea enjoy that new CRF.
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I know you sold the bike and I'm not trying to pick you apart, please don't take it that way. A common practice with any dirt bike is to just hand tighten the clutch and brake perches enough that they will rotate if the bike falls over, you crash etc. Give them a good bump with your hand and they will rotate out of the way. Bark buster-hand guards help also. You just have to check them periodically. I have not snapped a perch nor lever in over 40 years of doing this. If you crash harder than that you have bigger problems.
A decent skid plate will protect the lower portions of your radiator hoses. Yes, there is always a chance a branch could slide in there and cause havoc but it's rare. Radiator guards is money better spent as well. Putting a decent trailside tool kit together is another good expenditure of effort, bike specific, trial and error on that. That's another thread topic in itself.
Like I said I'm not trying to be a jerk just passing on what what's worked for me over the decades... so far so good!
I still have my KLX. jwaller is the one who sold his KLX for a CRF250RX. Coincidentally, I did buy a CRF250X last night but that's another story.
You aren't coming across as a jerk at all. In fact, you shouldn't ever be shy with sharing your knowledge here. New guys like me need all the help we can get.
That's great advice regarding the perches. Broke a couple of clutch levers before someone told me that. I have't broken one since! The clutch lever is so light and important I still carry a spare. I haven't tried on a KLX but on some bikes you can swap the brake lever for the clutch lever in a pinch.
Thanks for your suggestions.
Bearcat
Well-known member
Hey sorry man! I need to look at what I see! But yes this forum is a great place to share our school of hard knocks knowledge! I'll take the win on the CRF comment though!!I still have my KLX. jwaller is the one who sold his KLX for a CRF250RX. Coincidentally, I did buy a CRF250X last night but that's another story.
You aren't coming across as a jerk at all. In fact, you shouldn't ever be shy with sharing your knowledge here. New guys like me need all the help we can get.
That's great advice regarding the perches. Broke a couple of clutch levers before someone told me that. I have't broken one since! The clutch lever is so light and important I still carry a spare. I haven't tried on a KLX but on some bikes you can swap the brake lever for the clutch lever in a pinch.
Thanks for your suggestions.
I feel bad that you had such a lousy experience with your KLX. Am I remembering right that you had trouble with the rad fan not coming on last year?
Do you havea KLX?Hey sorry man! I need to look at what I see! But yes this forum is a great place to share our school of hard knocks knowledge! I'll take the win on the CRF comment though!!
No, But I want the new KLX 300 to add to the fleet !