Bill_M
Well-known member
I suppose if you were 100% sure you were never going to put it back to stock, you could just snip off the shaft of the motor, but I wasn't willing to commit to that...
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KLX230 /S /SE / SM Thread
- Thread starter Bill_M
- Start date
Bill_M
Well-known member
And at this point, my bike is 100% done and ready to ride. Here is the complete list of what I've done to it (some of this came off my old bike):
And here is pic as it sits today:
- PMR Luggage Rack
- Wolfman Peak Tail Bag
- SeatConcepts Comfort Seat
- Acerbis X-Factory Handguards
- Tail Tidy Rear Fender Eliminator Kit
- Eastern Beaver 2 Circuit Aux Power Kit
- BikeMaster Heated Grips
- Garmin Montana 600T GPS
- Garmin AMPS Rugged Mount
- Antigravity ATZ-7 Lithium Battery
- Kawasaki Skid Plate
- KLXParts Manual Idle Adjustment Screw
- KLXParts Rear Brake Reservoir Bracket
- Removed passenger footpegs
- Removed front reflectors
And here is pic as it sits today:
Last edited:
Bill_M
Well-known member
Also I've been on a quest to reduce the amount of weight I carry on the bike... so I have downsized what I carry to the following:
That is everything I need to deal with a flat tire. The 14mm hex socket and 17mm socket along with the Facom Socket/Bit driver set go in the OEM tool bag in place of the stock tools. Everything else goes in my tail bag.
The thing on the left is a tube for a 21" tire, zipped inside a ziplock bag, and then taped up with duct tape to protect it and keep it a manageable size. In a pinch, the 21" tube can be used in the 18" rear tire to get me back to camp where I will have a full set of tools and proper sized tubes.
My wife carries a first aid kit, sunscreen and lunch. We both wear a hydration pack for water.
The only additional things I carry not shown above are about 5 really heavy duty zip ties, and a sun hat to wear when I'm off the bike. When I get a flat tire, I first try the zip ties... about 4 of them around the tire/rim to keep the tire on the rim. I've had three flat tires in the last 12 years of riding, and two of those times, the zip ties got me home.
That is everything I need to deal with a flat tire. The 14mm hex socket and 17mm socket along with the Facom Socket/Bit driver set go in the OEM tool bag in place of the stock tools. Everything else goes in my tail bag.
The thing on the left is a tube for a 21" tire, zipped inside a ziplock bag, and then taped up with duct tape to protect it and keep it a manageable size. In a pinch, the 21" tube can be used in the 18" rear tire to get me back to camp where I will have a full set of tools and proper sized tubes.
My wife carries a first aid kit, sunscreen and lunch. We both wear a hydration pack for water.
The only additional things I carry not shown above are about 5 really heavy duty zip ties, and a sun hat to wear when I'm off the bike. When I get a flat tire, I first try the zip ties... about 4 of them around the tire/rim to keep the tire on the rim. I've had three flat tires in the last 12 years of riding, and two of those times, the zip ties got me home.
Bill_M
Well-known member
On the previous page, I posted the weight of my bike when it was still bone stock, full gas tank, using a digital bathroom scale, and came up with:
299.0 lbs
So after all of the mods and with the above stuff all loaded in my tailbag, I repeated the weighing process. Full tank of gas, tools, etc, ready to ride:
302.3 lbs
My goal was to be under 300 lbs ready to ride, and given that my baseline weight was 2 lbs high compared to official Kawasaki published wet weight, subtracting 2 lbs from the above should be a fair adjustment to compensate for inaccuracy in my measurement technique...
Meaning my actual ready to ride weight is 300.3 lbs. Within half a pound of my original goal.
Most of the weight added in tools, rack, guards, etc, was offset by the removal of the footpegs, the tail tidy kit, and the lithium battery. That is only about 15 lbs lighter than my WR was ready to ride, but it feels like more than that because of the smaller physical size of this bike and the lower center of gravity.
299.0 lbs
So after all of the mods and with the above stuff all loaded in my tailbag, I repeated the weighing process. Full tank of gas, tools, etc, ready to ride:
302.3 lbs
My goal was to be under 300 lbs ready to ride, and given that my baseline weight was 2 lbs high compared to official Kawasaki published wet weight, subtracting 2 lbs from the above should be a fair adjustment to compensate for inaccuracy in my measurement technique...
Meaning my actual ready to ride weight is 300.3 lbs. Within half a pound of my original goal.
Most of the weight added in tools, rack, guards, etc, was offset by the removal of the footpegs, the tail tidy kit, and the lithium battery. That is only about 15 lbs lighter than my WR was ready to ride, but it feels like more than that because of the smaller physical size of this bike and the lower center of gravity.
Bill_M
Well-known member
We got a break from the rain today, beautiful sunny day with temps in the low 50's, so we went for a nice little 49.5 mile ride, only about 12 of which was dirt. We both are really happy with the performance of the new bikes, and the ergonomics are perfect for smaller people like us.
Some pics from today's ride:
Some pics from today's ride:
Bill_M
Well-known member
Also, we both were really surprised how quiet and smooth these bikes are. Gear shifts are really crisp and smooth, especially considering the bikes aren't even broken in yet.
Loving the quiet ride... there will not be any aftermarket exhaust going on these bikes!
Loving the quiet ride... there will not be any aftermarket exhaust going on these bikes!
Bearcat
Well-known member
We got a break from the rain today, beautiful sunny day with temps in the low 50's, so we went for a nice little 49.5 mile ride, only about 12 of which was dirt. We both are really happy with the performance of the new bikes, and the ergonomics are perfect for smaller people like us.
Some pics from today's ride:
Bill_M, this pic is for you. Your old WR is alive! I also took advantage of the weather break. I grabbed a snorkel & fins, went to Tahuya and played around with the suspension clickers after having set the sag. The bike has exceeded my expectations, much fun and versatile! I'm glad you're enjoying the KLX's.
Bill_M
Well-known member
Bill_M, this pic is for you. Your old WR is alive! I also took advantage of the weather break. I grabbed a snorkel & fins, went to Tahuya and played around with the suspension clickers after having set the sag. The bike has exceeded my expectations, much fun and versatile! I'm glad you're enjoying the KLX's.
Awesome, really glad you are enjoying it!
Danno
Well-known member
Hmm I flipped a coin between the 230 and the tw. TW won I have an xt, drzsm with shinkos and a rxv plus other bikes. But the 230 is just as tempting as any bike. I knew the little kawi would be bad ass. Right on...I also got my 1st kawi..gen3 klr. I will check the thread and flip another coin some day.
zilla
Member
I just checked out the S and the SM yesterday. I like!
Question though. Are there any "larger" people riding these?
Initial impression just sitting on it is that I will have to stiffen things up.
Question though. Are there any "larger" people riding these?
Initial impression just sitting on it is that I will have to stiffen things up.
nj-brett
Well-known member
How would you compare the standard KLX suspension to the low version off road?
I had the standard 230 and the suspension was great, the back was a bit soft for a 220 pound rider going fast off road, but was nice below
the bottom out speeds.
I did not really have problems with the forks, a bit of preload would likely help a bit or a bit more oil.
The lower version is supposed to have a bit stiffer springs, but less travel.
The standard version was very plush, a very nice ride up to the point it could not handle, not harsh at all.
I had the standard 230 and the suspension was great, the back was a bit soft for a 220 pound rider going fast off road, but was nice below
the bottom out speeds.
I did not really have problems with the forks, a bit of preload would likely help a bit or a bit more oil.
The lower version is supposed to have a bit stiffer springs, but less travel.
The standard version was very plush, a very nice ride up to the point it could not handle, not harsh at all.
nj-brett
Well-known member
I was 220 pounds or a bit more and 6 feet tall and unless you like going really fast off road, the suspension was ok.
The back was softer then the front.
The back does have a preload adjustment and I ran 1 down from the stiffest, making it all the way stiff needed more rebound damping
I think, the bike felt good at one step below the stiffest.
Bill_M
Well-known member
Did the first oil change on both of our bikes today, in preparation for an upcoming trip. I was impressed with how easy an oil change is on these bikes. No spills, which is very rare for me when changing oil.
Well, if you don't count the runny red goop that dripped out of my grease gun when I pulled it down to get a little dab of grease to hold the spring on the oil filter. Can't blame that on the bikes...
And on that topic, does anybody make a grease gun that doesn't leak???
Well, if you don't count the runny red goop that dripped out of my grease gun when I pulled it down to get a little dab of grease to hold the spring on the oil filter. Can't blame that on the bikes...
And on that topic, does anybody make a grease gun that doesn't leak???
Bill_M
Well-known member
Over on the other forum, someone asked for a comparison between the KLX230S and all of the other dual sport bikes I have owned (admittedly quite a few).
Some here may find this useful, so here is my reply:
So my first bike was a 2010 KLX250S, purchased spring 2010. At around the same time, I bought my wife a 2008 Honda CRF230L. We learned to ride on those bikes, and rode them for a couple of years. We were doing a fair bit of road riding at the time, and my wife's little Honda just wasn't the right bike for that.
So I bought a 2012 DR650SE for myself in the summer of 2012, did a 351 big bore kit on the KLX, turned that over to my wife, and sold the CRF to a friend. That combination worked great for us for several years, but gradually we transitioned back to more and more offroad, and less pavement. For that kind of riding, the DR was a real pig.
So I bought myself a 2017 WR250R in late summer 2017. Really loved it, and made the mistake of letting my wife ride it... one ride and she said I want one of these. So I bought one for her as well about a month after I bought mine. Gave the KLX and DR to my two adult sons for Christmas presents that year. We rode those WRs for 5 years, and really loved them. My wife's bike started having valve issues at about year 3.5, and after a couple of valve adjustments, the top end was worn beyond what could be shimmed. At this point I read some articles on the KLX230S and was intrigued. Decided to buy one for her, found a 2022 ABS model in stock at a local dealer and bought it for her. Sold her WR to a member on here who read about the valve issues and reached out interested in purchasing it (he has the skills to deal with it, and has since rebuilt the top end and it is running great for him). I took a few rides on her new KLX, and really liked it. Started watching for one to come up in stock, and bought it when one did (2023 non-ABS). Sold my WR to a member on here.
So comparisons...
For me the KLX230S wins if you do mostly dirt and are not a real aggressive rider for the following reasons:
1. The KLX has a significantly tighter turning radius.
2. The KLX feels much lighter than the its actual weight due to how low it carries the weight. The WR is tall, and carries its weight up high.
3. The KLX has a much lower seat height making for more confidence in uneven terrain.
4. The KLX has more down low torque for idling along slowly on difficult trails, and is much harder to stall. You really have to rev the WR and get good with clutch feathering.
5. The KLX is just all around more relaxing and forgiving to ride offroad.
The WR wins if you are a more aggressive rider or ride a fair amount of pavement for the following reasons:
1. The WR has a much higher top speed (somewhere north of 90 MPH vs. around 70 MPH for the KLX).
2. The WR loves to rev, and has gobs of torque when you get it up into its powerband.
3. The WR is easier to wheelie.
4. The WR has a better suspension, which matters if you want to go fast on rough terrain.
5. The WR is really awesome on twisty pavement.
As to the other bikes from our more distant past...
1. The KLX250S with the 351 big bore kit was pretty comparable to the WR in every way except suspension. I think that is fixable if you throw aftermarket money at it.
2. The DR650SE was the best of all of the bikes I've owned for pavement, the best for easy gravel roads, and the worst for more technical trails.
3. The CRF230L pretty much sucked at everything. No suspension, no power. But a good learner bike.
Some here may find this useful, so here is my reply:
So my first bike was a 2010 KLX250S, purchased spring 2010. At around the same time, I bought my wife a 2008 Honda CRF230L. We learned to ride on those bikes, and rode them for a couple of years. We were doing a fair bit of road riding at the time, and my wife's little Honda just wasn't the right bike for that.
So I bought a 2012 DR650SE for myself in the summer of 2012, did a 351 big bore kit on the KLX, turned that over to my wife, and sold the CRF to a friend. That combination worked great for us for several years, but gradually we transitioned back to more and more offroad, and less pavement. For that kind of riding, the DR was a real pig.
So I bought myself a 2017 WR250R in late summer 2017. Really loved it, and made the mistake of letting my wife ride it... one ride and she said I want one of these. So I bought one for her as well about a month after I bought mine. Gave the KLX and DR to my two adult sons for Christmas presents that year. We rode those WRs for 5 years, and really loved them. My wife's bike started having valve issues at about year 3.5, and after a couple of valve adjustments, the top end was worn beyond what could be shimmed. At this point I read some articles on the KLX230S and was intrigued. Decided to buy one for her, found a 2022 ABS model in stock at a local dealer and bought it for her. Sold her WR to a member on here who read about the valve issues and reached out interested in purchasing it (he has the skills to deal with it, and has since rebuilt the top end and it is running great for him). I took a few rides on her new KLX, and really liked it. Started watching for one to come up in stock, and bought it when one did (2023 non-ABS). Sold my WR to a member on here.
So comparisons...
For me the KLX230S wins if you do mostly dirt and are not a real aggressive rider for the following reasons:
1. The KLX has a significantly tighter turning radius.
2. The KLX feels much lighter than the its actual weight due to how low it carries the weight. The WR is tall, and carries its weight up high.
3. The KLX has a much lower seat height making for more confidence in uneven terrain.
4. The KLX has more down low torque for idling along slowly on difficult trails, and is much harder to stall. You really have to rev the WR and get good with clutch feathering.
5. The KLX is just all around more relaxing and forgiving to ride offroad.
The WR wins if you are a more aggressive rider or ride a fair amount of pavement for the following reasons:
1. The WR has a much higher top speed (somewhere north of 90 MPH vs. around 70 MPH for the KLX).
2. The WR loves to rev, and has gobs of torque when you get it up into its powerband.
3. The WR is easier to wheelie.
4. The WR has a better suspension, which matters if you want to go fast on rough terrain.
5. The WR is really awesome on twisty pavement.
As to the other bikes from our more distant past...
1. The KLX250S with the 351 big bore kit was pretty comparable to the WR in every way except suspension. I think that is fixable if you throw aftermarket money at it.
2. The DR650SE was the best of all of the bikes I've owned for pavement, the best for easy gravel roads, and the worst for more technical trails.
3. The CRF230L pretty much sucked at everything. No suspension, no power. But a good learner bike.
Bill_M
Well-known member
Here is a link to a thread I posted in the ride pics section from our trip to DVNP. Had a blast, and the KLX230S performed great!
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