Anything from the Orange empire with a carb.... and GO!!!!!!!!!!!
Paging Dr. RideFreak to the orange curtesy phone.
Paging Dr. RideFreak to the orange curtesy phone.
KTM/Husky/GasGas Carbureted 2 Strokes
- Thread starter AlvinYork
- Start date
300 FTW!
Just put my 2018 Husky TE300 back together after a new Vertex top end and silencer repack. Did a couple of heat cycles and we are good to GO!!
Suspension all rebuilt. It's very nice. Between the top end, crank seals, clutch rubbers, and suspension, it feels like new again. Tight
Carbs rule!
Quick afternoon romp
Hey hey, I found a second asylum or is it a sanctuary still? 
A lot of familiar names here already.
One from last year. A friend of mine from far away was visiting. I organized one more 300 so we can do 1 day on 950 ADV's and one day on 300's.
This KTM is actually my first 2smoke, its a 2007 EXC300E that I sold about 5-6y ago. Sitting next to it is my current 2013 Husaberg TE300.
A lot of familiar names here already. One from last year. A friend of mine from far away was visiting. I organized one more 300 so we can do 1 day on 950 ADV's and one day on 300's.
This KTM is actually my first 2smoke, its a 2007 EXC300E that I sold about 5-6y ago. Sitting next to it is my current 2013 Husaberg TE300.
Here is a thought to ponder over a bit:
Using magnetic/trials/tethered kill switch for enduro/hard enduro ridding?
Lately I have been watching a lot of YT Enduro KeX, Alwernia,... and similar videos (my 2y old loves them). Somehow in a lot of occasions bike crashes more violently because it is still running even after the rider ejected himself. I did send my bike to the moon a few times myself, when I jumped off and the rear wheel got traction with full throttle. So having a tethered kill switch might save the bike from cartwheeling around and just lay down.
First 6 seconds are exactly what I mean
I can see this potentially being a problem in thick brush or with a lot of branches possibly yanking on the tether if too long. As a added bonus, if you stop for a lunch or gas, no one can just start your bike and ride away.
Thoughts?
Using magnetic/trials/tethered kill switch for enduro/hard enduro ridding?
Lately I have been watching a lot of YT Enduro KeX, Alwernia,... and similar videos (my 2y old loves them). Somehow in a lot of occasions bike crashes more violently because it is still running even after the rider ejected himself. I did send my bike to the moon a few times myself, when I jumped off and the rear wheel got traction with full throttle. So having a tethered kill switch might save the bike from cartwheeling around and just lay down.
First 6 seconds are exactly what I mean
I can see this potentially being a problem in thick brush or with a lot of branches possibly yanking on the tether if too long. As a added bonus, if you stop for a lunch or gas, no one can just start your bike and ride away.
Thoughts?
I ride trials bikes in the bush the tether is a issue getting snagged on stuff. I just use a regular kill switch or leave the tether off the magnet.
So, a close buddy gave me this '05 300.
He rebuilt the engine, suspension, etc after buying it as a basketcase. It's pretty much a new bike. He still prefers his Yamaha's so told me to keep this for myself 😳 I don't know, or really care, if it's an exc or xcw, but I'd appreciate any info on how I could tell exactly what it is.
Starts easy, idles well and low rpm throttle feels perfect. No issues stalling when crawling around in the woods. Pulls pretty good up top, but it sputters in the midrange pretty bad right before the power valve hits. I'm confident when tuning four strokes but I have zero experience with two strokes. Would this be a needle height issue? Sputtering on excess fuel or leaning out? If I were to dig up a factory jetting chart would it be accurate with the Gnarly pipe that is on the bike?
The rear caliper looks smaller than the one on my '02 520 RFS, but the 300 rear brake is SUPER touchy. Need to look in to softening that if possible.
He rebuilt the engine, suspension, etc after buying it as a basketcase. It's pretty much a new bike. He still prefers his Yamaha's so told me to keep this for myself 😳 I don't know, or really care, if it's an exc or xcw, but I'd appreciate any info on how I could tell exactly what it is.
Starts easy, idles well and low rpm throttle feels perfect. No issues stalling when crawling around in the woods. Pulls pretty good up top, but it sputters in the midrange pretty bad right before the power valve hits. I'm confident when tuning four strokes but I have zero experience with two strokes. Would this be a needle height issue? Sputtering on excess fuel or leaning out? If I were to dig up a factory jetting chart would it be accurate with the Gnarly pipe that is on the bike?
The rear caliper looks smaller than the one on my '02 520 RFS, but the 300 rear brake is SUPER touchy. Need to look in to softening that if possible.
See what's in the carb now. As a guess, I'd say that your main jet is a bit big.So, a close buddy gave me this '05 300.
He rebuilt the engine, suspension, etc after buying it as a basketcase. It's pretty much a new bike. He still prefers his Yamaha's so told me to keep this for myself 😳 I don't know, or really care, if it's an exc or xcw, but I'd appreciate any info on how I could tell exactly what it is.
Starts easy, idles well and low rpm throttle feels perfect. No issues stalling when crawling around in the woods. Pulls pretty good up top, but it sputters in the midrange pretty bad right before the power valve hits. I'm confident when tuning four strokes but I have zero experience with two strokes. Would this be a needle height issue? Sputtering on excess fuel or leaning out? If I were to dig up a factory jetting chart would it be accurate with the Gnarly pipe that is on the bike?
The rear caliper looks smaller than the one on my '02 520 RFS, but the 300 rear brake is SUPER touchy. Need to look in to softening that if possible.
On my 2014 300xc-w (with Gnarly pipe) I'm running 40pj, NECJ #3, 172mj. Not sure on the air screw, usually adjust it seasonally
Thanks for the info. Yeah, the air screw I understand how to work with.
Just popped it open.
35 pilot
160 main
NECW neddke on middle of 5 positions.
That's again for the help.
Last edited:
Sounds awful lean. What's your altitude?
KTM Talk is a great resource for jetting, the owner's manual no so much.
NECJ and NECW are Suzuki needles btw. They have a nice taper, very smooth throttle response.
I like having the bike a little rich off the bottom with the Gnarly pipe, otherwise it's a bit too snappish.
But your current jetting sounds like either high altitude Colorado Rockies, or someone is trying to compensate for a float level that's too high. (Do check that, it's usually too high from the factory)
Pretty low altitude here. Highest it'll ever see is about 1500' above sea level.
I will double check the float level.
Shame that KTM isn't a reliable source for jetting. That leaves me at the mercy of the internet.
I did make a quick test pass through the field. Not WOT, but a couple hard pulls. Doing the cheater trick of activating the enrichment circuit to see how adding fuel would react. It made the sputter worse while also pulling harder/cleaner up top, so...not helpful 😁
Guy who assembled the bike told me he replaced the carb slide as the one that came with the bike has been modified ( that's all I know). I did some digging and according to one KTM chart I saw the bike should have a #6 throttle valve but this slide has a #7 on it. I don't know how those slides differ, but I have a feeling that any jetting changes will be a moot point with the wrong slide in place. #7 Slide looks like came in the 250 SX's. This chart is for 2000 model year. I'm not sure what changes, if any, happened throughout the years.
Last edited:
Eric, is yours a PWK 38 or a 36?
Mine is a 36. I've jetted a 2006 300xc-w with a PWK 36S (same as mine) and it worked fine with my recipe, ditto several Beta 300 Xtrainers.
Start with: correct slide (if possible) 38pj, NECJ in 3rd position, and 168mj. But also keep on hand a 40pj, and a 170 & 172 main jet.
***set float as per specifications (best to err on the "bit lower" side of the spec)
Mine is a 36. I've jetted a 2006 300xc-w with a PWK 36S (same as mine) and it worked fine with my recipe, ditto several Beta 300 Xtrainers.
Start with: correct slide (if possible) 38pj, NECJ in 3rd position, and 168mj. But also keep on hand a 40pj, and a 170 & 172 main jet.
***set float as per specifications (best to err on the "bit lower" side of the spec)
Stay in touch, their jetting needs didn't change much from year to year.
That NECJ needle is goldilocks, suggest you get a 38 and 40 pilot, and mains from 165-172. We'll get it sorted.
I always figured you'd like a 300 two-stroke, because it's so torquey. Like a 525 RFS without the weight
That NECJ needle is goldilocks, suggest you get a 38 and 40 pilot, and mains from 165-172. We'll get it sorted.
I always figured you'd like a 300 two-stroke, because it's so torquey. Like a 525 RFS without the weight