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Milling & Machining

Not specifically machining, but I Cerakoted my first set of block off plates. Had some trouble with the purple it was looking to puddled and drippy on the parts, raised to air pressure for the black and they came out tight. Depending on the angle and lighting the go from almost a satin grey to a dark satin black.:thumb Fits most Kawasaki 600 and 650 if anyone wants a set!
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The Y-axis leadscrew and nut were shot on the 8520 so I ordered acme rod and a bronze nut from McMaster-Carr and created a new screw on my old SB 10K lathe. (Clausing will sell the bronze nut still, but they don't sell the leadscrew anymore. Stock leadscrew is 11/16" and I can't get that anywhere, so easier to make both out of 3/4" from McMaster. There's a guide online to do this, so not my idea.) The screw came out well. The bronze nut is next. I have it partially turned down, and now it's on my benchtop mill to get it down to size. That will take me a while on the little mill.

Almost every bearing in the machine was bad. I've replaced almost all and I'm removing years of gunk. I also cleared out the bug nest from the quill gears. It's got a crappy paintjob and it's missing some small parts, but it should be usable soon.

TBD if my cleanup will help movement on the Y-axis or not. I suspect it needs the ways scraped/ground. That's probably more $ than the thing is worth. If it was a nicer one, I'd probably spend the extra money.
 

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The Y-axis leadscrew and nut were shot on the 8520 so I ordered acme rod and a bronze nut from McMaster-Carr and created a new screw on my old SB 10K lathe. (Clausing will sell the bronze nut still, but they don't sell the leadscrew anymore. Stock leadscrew is 11/16" and I can't get that anywhere, so easier to make both out of 3/4" from McMaster. There's a guide online to do this, so not my idea.) The screw came out well. The bronze nut is next. I have it partially turned down, and now it's on my benchtop mill to get it down to size. That will take me a while on the little mill.

Almost every bearing in the machine was bad. I've replaced almost all and I'm removing years of gunk. I also cleared out the bug nest from the quill gears. It's got a crappy paintjob and it's missing some small parts, but it should be usable soon.

TBD if my cleanup will help movement on the Y-axis or not. I suspect it needs the ways scraped/ground. That's probably more $ than the thing is worth. If it was a nicer one, I'd probably spend the extra money.
Could be a good excuse to learn how to scrape it yourself, it doesnt look like a particularly hard skill to learn and a nice way to have a quiet evening and a beer or two
 
Could be a good excuse to learn how to scrape it yourself, it doesnt look like a particularly hard skill to learn and a nice way to have a quiet evening and a beer or two

Scraping is easy, but scraping to dimension and flatness within defined ranges of error is very much not. After you get a suitably flat surface plate, measuring instruments, reference edges and so on, then you can start to learn how to scrape down to flat and square. To scrape to thousanths of an inch you need techniques and tools that can repeatedly work to tenths. Takes a bunch of time and practice to learn.
 
Scraping is easy, but scraping to dimension and flatness within defined ranges of error is very much not. After you get a suitably flat surface plate, measuring instruments, reference edges and so on, then you can start to learn how to scrape down to flat and square. To scrape to thousanths of an inch you need techniques and tools that can repeatedly work to tenths. Takes a bunch of time and practice to learn.
Thats fair enough, I haven't done much that's needed that much precision. If its already pretty close is it something you can get by with less of the precision measuring and work? I remember a while back now watching the Abom74 video of him learning how to, watching was cool but have no desire to do it myself lol
 
Thats fair enough, I haven't done much that's needed that much precision. If its already pretty close is it something you can get by with less of the precision measuring and work? I remember a while back now watching the Abom74 video of him learning how to, watching was cool but have no desire to do it myself lol

Abom has a <lot> of practice and training- I've attended one of the scraping classes he has, did a bunch of scraping work on one of my lathes- it is a satisfying way of spending a few hours in the shop. The goal is to establish (or re-establish) correct function, alignment within determined error tolerances- that requires considerable discipline in measurement and methods so you know where and how much to scrape, and determine when and where to stop, and what the end surface should look like.

OTOH decorative or oil flaking of a surface is much simpler, not needing the extensive measurement discipline.

No reason a scraping project couldn't be done just for smooth and pretty, and such a project would be easy fun. OTOH that means choosing to neglect issues pertaining to alignment and flatness- so I guess it depends on the goals.
 
Does anyone here have a link or a cheat-sheet for angles to grind on HSS lathe bits for different uses? It seems like it should be easy to find, but I only find the info for a single RH turning tool. I want to be able to grind decent roughing, facing, finishing, grooving, and round-nose tools. I'm sure I can trial and error my way to the other tools, but it seems like reinventing the wheel. TIA.
Lets see how these come out...
 

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Got the parts in to make a power draw bar for the little 440 so it was time to make the extra parts. Got the base plate designed and machined out today with a little help(?) from the cats. Tomorrow I'll get the standoffs cut and threaded and we should be in business, easy toolchanges finally :lol3
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Had the CRF torn a part today , greasing neck bearings and added a GPR Steering Dampener,
when the little old lady down street came into the shop

Turns out her decade old stationary bike, company was out of business, and had a broken lever.

She knew I owned the welding shop and asked if it could be fixed. So after I was done wrenching i surveyed the damage.

Her hubby pulled like hell, thinking it moved the seat -- it does not, it is the recline lever

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sheared it right off

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quick mill job, all done

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made it a press fit. if it ever comes loose down the road, I'll drill a hole and pin it.
 
Anyone know what this is? It came in a box of stuff that came with my mill.
 

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Looks maybe like a hacked-on handle, perhaps from a machine handwheel.
 
Jack for a sine plate seems legit. Squiggly pic had me seeing an ancient edge finder....a big one.

What operates in the mechanism? Ball joint or screw jack?
 
Apparently the Morse taper on my chuck shat the bed for my drill press, so I decided to move over to the mill to finish the job. I learned two things.

1: Don't use a hole saw in the mill. "Man, I've been missing out. Look at her go!" Then I stripped the threads clean out of the cup 😁 Too much power, too much temptation

2: I don't know how to identify what size Morse taper I've got and the internet is full of contradictory info.

My "free" scrap material stools just got expensive.

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