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Milling & Machining

Shinyribs said:
Apparently the Morse taper on my chuck shat the bed for my drill press, so I decided to move over to the mill to finish the job. I learned two things.

1: Don't use a hole saw in the mill. "Man, I've been missing out. Look at her go!" Then I stripped the threads clean out of the cup 😁 Too much power, too much temptation

2: I don't know how to identify what size Morse taper I've got and the internet is full of contradictory info.
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re the hole saws- and how- I've been down that route before, using them on aluminum. I made it work but the saw was very unhappy, I think trepanning would be a better move if/when I need to do something like that again.

re morse tapers;

littlemachineshop.com

Dimensions of Standard Tapers

This page give the dimensions of Morse, Jacobs, Brown & Sharpe, and Jarno tapers.
littlemachineshop.com littlemachineshop.com

measure big and little ends of the tooling, find the closest candidate in the table. Length can vary, the angles and taper parameters are more difficult to measure directly.
 
gpounce said:
re the hole saws- and how- I've been down that route before, using them on aluminum. I made it work but the saw was very unhappy, I think trepanning would be a better move if/when I need to do something like that again.

re morse tapers;

littlemachineshop.com

Dimensions of Standard Tapers

This page give the dimensions of Morse, Jacobs, Brown & Sharpe, and Jarno tapers.
littlemachineshop.com littlemachineshop.com

measure big and little ends of the tooling, find the closest candidate in the table. Length can vary, the angles and taper parameters are more difficult to measure directly.
Click to expand...
Trepanning would be way too nice for what I'm up to. I was too lazy to cut out little round feet for the stools and thought I'd pop out some discs with the holesaw real quick.

And thank you for that link. I should have been able to find that on my own, but regardless, I appreciate the help!
 
Q: any suggestions Synthetic cutting fluids for 7x12 93" Band Saw?

Pros / Cons


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Get the the one that reviews well on smell. Some can get kinda rancid. It is horrible and has to be changed out.
 
ZoomerP said:
That can be a nasty job.

I know that the bio based ones used to be susceptible to contamination and would begin to ferment in warm weather. An oil skimmer helped, but eventually the entire tank needed to be cleaned and refilled. I'm not sure if they're any better about that today.
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Some go bad almost instantly. And smell like sewage. At that point one splashed drop could really cause issues to some people. Surface grinders and horizontal saws contaminate the fastest. And changing it out is not fun. There has to be a product that addresses this.
 
I've had good luck with sawing fluid in my power hacksaw- a variety of vendors for it. Has never gone bad on me, and really helps with blade life. I use a small aquarium pump on the tank. Put a hard disk magnet in a ziplock bag under the tank inlet to catch fines and keep most of them away from the pump.
 
gpounce said:
I've had good luck with sawing fluid in my power hacksaw- a variety of vendors for it. Has never gone bad on me, and really helps with blade life. I use a small aquarium pump on the tank. Put a hard disk magnet in a ziplock bag under the tank inlet to catch fines and keep most of them away from the pump.
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What brand fluid?
 
MVI said:
What brand fluid?
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Sawzit 2000 (got a 1 gal jug from McMaster), diluted to something between 5:1 and 10:1 water to coolant. I've only remixed the tank a couple times, mostly when it gets contaminated- I did some wood on one occasion (mistake), and cast iron (really bad mistake)... both are OK to cut, but should be cut dry. It might have helped the cast iron somewhat but omg the pump packed off something awful with iron powder.
 
I think one answer that worked on the saw was the flow rate. A slow flow rate was absorbed by the chips. And if the chips were constantly cleaned out, the system acted as a total loss. So we constantly filled with a low contamination rate. Only during high production and add a new employee then the saw turned into a mess. Not only the coolant but with the chips too. Definitely a pattern. The one saw never smelled for yrs. Then it did using the same coolant. The guides and bearing wear coincided with the smell.
 
Yeah I get some loss via chips with the cutting oil on the two mills and lathe- sometimes I let the them sit overnight before cleaning up. I don't use the saw enough for much loss (unless a long workpiece shunts a bunch off onto the floor lol) - mostly just lose water to evaporation there.
 
Air is an option for aluminum milling. I contemplated custom circuit board milling out of my house. And researched and talked to friends in various shops. Air was the new method for milling aluminum or copper 5 years ago. Vapor was a thing 20yrs ago but I have never seen this in action plus atomizing "bad" biologicals seems nuts! So vapor probably should be total loss also.
 
I use cutting oil for bigger lathe and mill ops, tap-magic for small stuff in steel & aluminum. I've only done small stuff with copper- mitering copper tubing etc. I like working with brass and bronze a lot- very pretty, I'm a sucker for a nice piece of brass.

Air would be nice, though I'm not into helping blow stuff around the shop- otoh inside a CNC thats probably great- I bet it keeps the machine cleaner.
 
Alright folks, I'm stumped.

The X axis on my mill was a dog to crank. You could do it with one hand, but just barely. The shop I bought this from bought the machine to do one job 20+ yrs ago and never used it again. Figured coagulated grease had it jammed up so I pulled the table down for deep cleaning.

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Turns out the source of the binding is the saddle clamp that the lead screw threads through. If it tighten the mounting bolts finger tight it runs back and forth as free as you want. I have some 25 thou shim material on hand so I started shimming up the saddle. No change with one piece of shim under, so I eventually ended up with three shims ( 75 thou in total) under the saddle with no chance. Zero shims or jacked up 75 thou, makes no difference- screw turns freely until I snug the bolts down tight then it will bind. What the heck do you make of that? It's cocking?

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