+ Week The European Chronicles

[kickstandsup]

To the Passes!
To the Passes!
To the Passes!

Today was a day of breathtaking views, and breathtaking roads. I'll start you with this: La Tremola

But that was the end of the day, let's rewind a bit. Loaded up and heading out of Leysin on the Route du Pillion to the Col du Pillion and on to Gsteig (or Gstaad).

Microclimates abound

The first significant climb comes with Jaunpass (not Juan Pass, which is in Spain.

Well, that was fun, but only a small fraction of what was to come.

 

[kickstandsup]

After my recent unicorn bike rant, I think I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.

On to Interlaken, literally, "between the lakes"

Waiting for the train...

And now, heading up Susten Pass

 

[kickstandsup]

After checking in to the Alpenhotel Schlussel in Andermatt, the view from my balcony (watching the bikes go by and fuel up is actually a benefit)

The route to Andermatt:

But before I explore Andermatt, it is time to do La Tremola, the "old" Gottard Pass, and virtually all cobblestone:

The NEW Gotthard Pass, should be on that tomorrow...

 

[EGR]

Thanks. Great stuff. We think the F8GT is excellent 2up. There may be slight tax advantage for estate/wagons and there may be a slight aero advantage with the longer clean top shape. WFO matters ;)

 

[EGR]

Andermatt is a good place to sit with a glass and

watch the world roll by

 

[kickstandsup]

Thanks. Great stuff. We think the F8GT is excellent 2up. There may be slight tax advantage for estate/wagons and there may be a slight aero advantage with the longer clean top shape. WFO matters ;)

Could not agree with you more on all 3 things, the GT, estates have a clear aero advantage over SUVs, and Andermatt, which I'll get to in a minute.

First, a little frolic and detour on how we ended up choosing and shipping the F800GT.

In the fall of 2018, we did a tour of Tuscany on a rented MTS 1260S. At the time, our 2-up touring bike in the US was a 2011 R12GS. The thought was to test ride the MTS and if we liked it, buy one here and ship the GS to Europe.

The Hammer:

We liked the Ducati and it performed very well, but my wife summed it up best: "This bike is always comfortable, but never relaxed." A great bike, but not sure it would be the best choice for touring duty.


Overlooking Rossi's Ranch, and my wife taking a small break...

I did like the Duc's lighter weight and slim profile, which helped convince me that the GS would be the wrong bike, for us, in Europe. I wanted something smaller, lighter and better suited to the smaller "scale" of European travel.

In 2014, we toured the Scotland Highlands on a rented F800GT:

At the time, we were both pretty impressed with the bike, it was "enough," i.e., enough power, enough comfort, enough luggage. She was comfortable on the back, and I thought with better suspension and a few ergot tweaks, this would be a really good travel bike.

When we were discussing shipping a bike to Europe, I said to my wife, "Remember the bike we rented in Scotland? Would you be comfortable on that in Europe?" She said it would be perfect, she liked it better than the Ducati..."That bike is as relaxed as the GS." I started looking for one.

Found a very low mileage (7500) 2013 in CA, well equipped with all the luggage, bar risers, V-Stream shield and lower pegs, did a fly and ride, owner picked me up, put me up and his wife cooked dinner...could not have been a more pleasant experience and we're still in contact.

Recharging in Yuma, AZ on the ride home:

Kitted it out a bit, full service then rode it back to CA for shipping. I really like these bikes, they fit my needs better than anything else on the market today. So much so that when I came back from Europe in 2019, I found another and sold the GS, but more on that later.

A little preview: Mia's sister Ginger:

 

[kickstandsup]

Andermatt...

A word about small, European hotels: they rock! When checking in at the Alpenhotel Schlussel, the owner helps carry my stuff up to the room, makes sure it meets my needs, then has me follow him with Mia into the underground garage, "This will be your space." Awesome.

Let's check out Andermatt:

My hotel, right above the Coop.

The River Reuss.

The center of the Universe...

 

[EGR]

Scotland. Aye… About ‘90 we hired a newish XT600 and some route and b and b notes from a petro engineer in Aberdeen. A week in highlands on the old tracks, including Corrieyairick Pass. A pair of soft bags 2up. Light is Right.

 

[kickstandsup]

Scotland. Aye… About ‘90 we hired a newish XT600 and some route and b and b notes from a petro engineer in Aberdeen. A week in highlands on the old tracks, including Corrieyairick Pass. A pair of soft bags 2up. Light is Right.

Scotland was fantastic, great roads, scenery, culture. I'll do a frolic and detour at some point and post up that trip. My wife sooooo wants to go back, and I expect we will.

 

[kickstandsup]

The following days are 2 Andermatt "loops"; Gottardo, Novena and Furka; the Oberalp and Lucomagno. It all starts at my doorstep... 👏

We're both waiting on the train...

To say Europe is "biker friendly" really understates it...motorcycles are simply woven into the fabric of the culture; as commonplace and accepted as breathing.

 

[MrWellAdjusted]

Other people living my dreams… Keep posting pics for us plebs. Cheers.

 

[kickstandsup]

The Rhone Glacier

That's the now closed Hotel Belvedere at the top of Furka Pass, made famous by Bond, James Bond, in Goldfinger.

Party on, baby! 😎. How civilized!

 

[kickstandsup]

Me too!

Walking and biking paths everywhere

The routes:

An incredible 2 days! 👏

 

[kickstandsup]

Swiss Hospitality

One bottle of aspirin, that's all it takes for room, board and guided tours. I'm fortunate to have a good riding buddy who moved back to Switzerland several years ago; he and his SO have been hosting me these past several days in return for a "big bottle of aspirin." Apparently, that's expensive here in Switzerland, so I willingly became a drug smuggler (allegedly). You do what it takes.

Best of all, they are both excellent riders and have shown me some amazing places.

But first, I have to leave Andermatt. You never know what will show up at the Andermatt Shell:

Watching, and hearing, him turn around was a bit comical, but certainly entertaining. Should have filmed it, but I wasn't really awake...

Raining, so I plot a bit more direct route that still takes me out of Andermatt over Oberalp Pass, which is completely fogged in until the top. That was "interesting" (actually fairly terrifying) and a good way to get your adrenalin flowing in the morning. Fortunately, it is mostly gone on the other side, just a bit wet.

My friends have an amazing view:

You're looking at Lichtenstein, the border is a few kilometers before the mountains. One of the many castles

 

[nickguzzi]

Another of your great reports and write ups. Great photos too.
Keep up the good work, and best wishes to you both.

Nick.

 

[Chickenstrip]

Beautiful photos and inspiring rides - I hope I get to ride in Europe someday. My GF is Belgian, but she's not into bikes. She DOES have a relative in Geneva who rides a GS, so there's a possibility.

Regarding bikes ... I agree with everything you list, though I do like a slightly sporty riding position (as opposed to ADV). Regarding weight - I mostly agree. I have a theory that a heavier bike (and I'm not talking big touring bike weight-in the range you mention) is less susceptible to jarring bumps than, say, a lightweight sport bike. I think a lot of the reason for 'rider aids' is due to the very high HP that sport bikes are pumping out these days ... and then it becomes a selling gimmick for even the bikes with 'real-world' power.

Thanks for putting the effort into this tasty review of biking in Europe!

 

[kickstandsup]

Thanks guys, and thanks for coming along.

Riding Europe has been a life long dream, and I am truly lucky being able to realize it.

Can't wait to go back this summer!

 

[kickstandsup]

The weather finally cleared up and my guided tour begins.

We work our way to the top of a dam, thru narrow stone tunnels, near the ancient town of St. Martin

Even here...oh, and just as an aside: the Swiss post office delivers mail via 3 wheeled electric scooters.

 

[kickstandsup]

Beautiful photos and inspiring rides - I hope I get to ride in Europe someday. My GF is Belgian, but she's not into bikes. She DOES have a relative in Geneva who rides a GS, so there's a possibility.

Regarding bikes ... I agree with everything you list, though I do like a slightly sporty riding position (as opposed to ADV). Regarding weight - I mostly agree. I have a theory that a heavier bike (and I'm not talking big touring bike weight-in the range you mention) is less susceptible to jarring bumps than, say, a lightweight sport bike. I think a lot of the reason for 'rider aids' is due to the very high HP that sport bikes are pumping out these days ... and then it becomes a selling gimmick for even the bikes with 'real-world' power.

Thanks for putting the effort into this tasty review of biking in Europe!

You've got a family EU connection and you don't have a bike there? Shame on you... ;). You should put that Triumph on the very next boat! And don't piss her off...

 

[Chickenstrip]

You've got a family EU connection and you don't have a bike there? Shame on you... ;). You should put that Triumph on the very next boat! And don't piss her off...

Hmmm, maybe you have something there!