Even here in the US, as you well know, there are areas where 200 miles can make for a full day of riding. When I was younger I regularly rode 300, 400 even up to 700 mile day rides. Part of that was being younger but part of it was not knowing all the really twisty roads and spending a lot of time on high speed roads trying to piece together the good roads. These days 200-250 is a normal day for me and I rarely go over 300. On top of that, with the spectacular scenery in Europe, I would want to take some time to enjoy it.
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+ Week The European Chronicles
- Thread starter kickstandsup
- Start date
kickstandsup
Why not?
Europe is just "tighter" everywhere, and the speeds are lower, especially compared to the US West. Both my GTs have an "average speed" readout on the trip computer.
Ginger's average speed: 54
Mia's average speed: 34 and that includes some unlimited autobahn stints.
Plus the last thing I want to do is "race through Europe," as you say, I want to enjoy it. I won't be able to do this forever...
Fastest roads possible. Say, Mostar to Tirana, about 225 mi. Just drop down for kebab lunch. Probably seven hours and bleeding, broken blisters on shifter toe.Soooooooo true! I mean, you CAN do big miles if you stay on the motorways, but why would you want to...
JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
Having grown up in Tucson, I can say that you may have been right.
kickstandsup
Why not?
Having grown up in Tucson, I can say that you may have been right.
...the perfect segue...House hunting was interesting...I was single and wanted to live "downtown," close to my office. "Oh, no, you don't want to live there" as all the agents took me to these gated communities that were either family oriented or mostly seniors, and all a substantial drive from my office. Nope...eventually found an in-fill development 1 mile from my office, gave them a deposit and started building a house. In the meantime, I rented a casita over a garage in one of those communities, put all my stuff in the garage while the house was being built.
Sold my SuperHawk to the friend that came with me to the Alps (he's still got it)
Took my 900 ss/sp with me on the truck...
Sold a car to a co-worker and loaded up the car I was bringing; a quick road trip
Started working (my ass off again) later that month. Remember the Alps GS test ride? Two months later I bought one as my travel bike.
The first year was tough...there just wasn't a lot to do. The downtown was kinda dead, and trying for a resurgence...by about 2008, it really started to take hold. New restaurants, breweries, concerts, stuff to do. Took a bit of a hit with the pandemic, like most places, but resurgent now again. It has become a very nice place to live, for me.
And I loved, loved, loved having a 1 mile walk to my office. After a couple of years, made that even faster/easier with an Electra beach cruiser. Put it in the freight elevator and took it right into my office.
I enjoyed touring The West, put 50k on the first GS, bought another in 2011 to continue that journey...
Got remarried, then eventually turned my, now our, attention back to Europe.
Scotland was first on the list.
But I'm not going to post about that right now...we can come back to it later. And Tuscany.
After the 2019 trip, I was so looking forward to 2020, but we all know what happened then. Try as we might, it just wasn't going to happen. At least we were healthy, as were friends and family.
2021 was a different, better, story...
kickstandsup
Why not?
2021 Prologue
2021's strategy: Flexible is the new black. I've booked no hotels, have no specific destinations and the only commitments I have involve servicing Mia, my patiently waiting BMW F800GT, in case you forgot. She's still at Stefan's Moto B&B in Heidelberg, Germany:
I've ordered a new custom Wilbers rear shock (identical to what's now on Ginger, Mia's US-based sister) that will be shipped to Stefan's, and arranged for its installation, along with new tires and brake fluid, at a local BMW dealer. I'll do an oil change and new battery if necessary in Stefan's shop. All that will happen within a few days after I arrive. Hopefully, the gas stabilizer and fresh oil before putting her in storage September 2019 will prevent any problems now. We'll see.
Once Mia is sorted, my direction will be informed by two things: 1. weather and, 2. the virus. As of right now, borders are open but the Delta variant is spreading, so closures remain possible. My biggest fear is being "stuck" in another country and not being able to get Mia back to Heidelberg for storage. I have a "safety valve" in that there's another storage facility in Zagreb, Croatia if for some reason I can't get back to Germany but could get to Croatia. Being fully vaxed with Moderna (and being able to prove it with the CDC card and the Clear app) will hopefully allow for easy border crossing.
But I'm not sure I'll even put myself in the cross-border situation. I want to assess the "openness" of the borders once I'm there and can get a sense of the risk of future border closures from local residents and other travelers. Initially, I may confine my riding to Germany; the Black Forest, Bavaria, wherever. That way, there's little risk that I can't get back to Heidelberg should things take a turn for the worse.
That said, the Alps and Dolomites are as seductive as ever, which leads to France, Austria and Italy. The Route des Grande Alpes through France was the original "next" target.
But who knows; staying in Germany is probably the smart choice and there are worse duties than riding around the Black Forest. I didn't even scratch the surface in 2019, just transiting through in a day.
Lots more to see and do there. Plus, spas. 😎
You'll note that there's (sadly) no mention of Casa Olea or Lago di Como in my non-plans. We've postponed that lovely retreat to 2022, and I'll be doing Europe solo this year, my wife opting for a more relaxing rock hounding excursion to Michigan's Upper Peninsula. It really came down to who can afford to get stuck; for retired me, it makes little difference, for still working her, being stuck would be pretty aggravating.
Speaking of hotels, I think that's going to be a pretty big crap-shoot this year. I'll likely pick a riding direction each night, maybe book a hotel for the next day, or just see where I am around lunch and start looking for one then.
I will be bringing the new Rev'it Sand 3 riding kit to replace my aging Aerostich. Have really liked it here, should work well in Europe, cooler and less cumbersome than the 'stich.
Will likely wear it on the plane so I don't have to check luggage and can travel with only the BMW liner bag.
Yup, just that, love having all the stuff already there...
2021's strategy: Flexible is the new black. I've booked no hotels, have no specific destinations and the only commitments I have involve servicing Mia, my patiently waiting BMW F800GT, in case you forgot. She's still at Stefan's Moto B&B in Heidelberg, Germany:
I've ordered a new custom Wilbers rear shock (identical to what's now on Ginger, Mia's US-based sister) that will be shipped to Stefan's, and arranged for its installation, along with new tires and brake fluid, at a local BMW dealer. I'll do an oil change and new battery if necessary in Stefan's shop. All that will happen within a few days after I arrive. Hopefully, the gas stabilizer and fresh oil before putting her in storage September 2019 will prevent any problems now. We'll see.
Once Mia is sorted, my direction will be informed by two things: 1. weather and, 2. the virus. As of right now, borders are open but the Delta variant is spreading, so closures remain possible. My biggest fear is being "stuck" in another country and not being able to get Mia back to Heidelberg for storage. I have a "safety valve" in that there's another storage facility in Zagreb, Croatia if for some reason I can't get back to Germany but could get to Croatia. Being fully vaxed with Moderna (and being able to prove it with the CDC card and the Clear app) will hopefully allow for easy border crossing.
But I'm not sure I'll even put myself in the cross-border situation. I want to assess the "openness" of the borders once I'm there and can get a sense of the risk of future border closures from local residents and other travelers. Initially, I may confine my riding to Germany; the Black Forest, Bavaria, wherever. That way, there's little risk that I can't get back to Heidelberg should things take a turn for the worse.
That said, the Alps and Dolomites are as seductive as ever, which leads to France, Austria and Italy. The Route des Grande Alpes through France was the original "next" target.
But who knows; staying in Germany is probably the smart choice and there are worse duties than riding around the Black Forest. I didn't even scratch the surface in 2019, just transiting through in a day.
Lots more to see and do there. Plus, spas. 😎
You'll note that there's (sadly) no mention of Casa Olea or Lago di Como in my non-plans. We've postponed that lovely retreat to 2022, and I'll be doing Europe solo this year, my wife opting for a more relaxing rock hounding excursion to Michigan's Upper Peninsula. It really came down to who can afford to get stuck; for retired me, it makes little difference, for still working her, being stuck would be pretty aggravating.
Speaking of hotels, I think that's going to be a pretty big crap-shoot this year. I'll likely pick a riding direction each night, maybe book a hotel for the next day, or just see where I am around lunch and start looking for one then.
I will be bringing the new Rev'it Sand 3 riding kit to replace my aging Aerostich. Have really liked it here, should work well in Europe, cooler and less cumbersome than the 'stich.
Will likely wear it on the plane so I don't have to check luggage and can travel with only the BMW liner bag.
Yup, just that, love having all the stuff already there...
Chickenstrip
Well-known member
Hardly looks worn, that Sand gear. If I didn't know better I'd say you're one of those Starbucks fantasy adventure types! 
kickstandsup
Why not?
Hardly looks worn, that Sand gear. If I didn't know better I'd say you're one of those Starbucks fantasy adventure types!
Brand new when I took that shot, it hadn't even been to Starbucks yet...
D
Do they have Starbucks in Europe? If they do wouldn't going there be about like going to Europe and eating at McDonalds?Brand new when I took that shot, it hadn't even been to Starbucks yet...
kickstandsup
Why not?
I dunno, but probably somewhere. I generally don't even go to either here in the US, hence the
Coffee in Europe is usually beyond anything offered here in the states...and you must have only espresso after noon...
What??? Didn't you own a GS? I thought you were required to show a Starbucks receipt to get your 600 mile service signed offI dunno, but probably somewhere. I generally don't even go to either here in the US, hence the
kickstandsup
Why not?
What??? Didn't you own a GS? I thought you were required to show a Starbucks receipt to get your 600 mile service signed off
I ride away from most crowds; you're the group guy...
True. And I have been to Starbucks.I ride away from most crowds; you're the group guy...
Once!
FLrider
Well-known member
Once is plenty for that burnt stuff….
Chickenstrip
Well-known member
Drinkin' me some Starbucks right now - it's okay for a workday break.
My bike is ten miles away, I swear!
My bike is ten miles away, I swear!
kickstandsup
Why not?
July 2021...And We're Back!!!
I am 22 months out of practice! It is completely odd to fly, at least for me, right now. But having said that, United made it pretty easy. Upload your passport and vaccine info via their app, they "review and approve" them and you're good to go with boarding passes issued (supposedly; more on that later). Virtually no line at Tucson airport; my biggest hang up is that metal detectors just love me. Zero issues flying in my riding suit; everyone was jealous of the guy sporting hazmat apparel...😂
Speaking of, get to the gate, sit down, woman across from me asks, "Is that a riding suit?" Why, yes, do you ride? Conversation ensues with her and her husband. Despite the masks, we quickly realize we know each other...they are former Tucson residents and we were all members of a local BMW club years ago. They've since moved to Texas and it was wonderful swapping stories, motorcycle and otherwise; the waiting time flew by. Small world.
My flight was delayed for want of a crew, and I got to Denver with juuuuuust enough time for the Frankfurt connection: "Final call for Lufthansa flight..." is paging as I hit the gate. But wait, no, I'm sent back to the counter for "document validation." All good, I'm on, pull away from the gate...and sit for almost an hour, some kind of paperwork issue. Maybe they thought submitting the documents online was good enough...nope.
We're all issued surgical masks before boarding and the flight is about half full, which is great. Alcohol is severely limited, you get some wine with dinner but that's it. Oh, well. We land about 12:15 pm local time, I'm picked up by Christopher from Stefan's Moto B&B at the "meeting point," cleverly labeled by signs directing you to the "meeting point" and it's off to Heidelberg. Customs was a breeze, all they did was check my passport and CDC card.
An accident on the autobahn has us sitting for about 30 minutes and is an opportunity to show what happens when there's stopped traffic in Germany...the cars slide toward the outer edges of the roadway, creating a large gap in the middle, ostensibly for emergency vehicles (if necessary) and perfect for motorcycles.
Like this:
Awesome if you're riding; simply smart otherwise.
At Stefan's, Mia and all my stuff are waiting outside my room, including the new Wilbers shock. The four year old battery has been replaced and she starts right up. My first pleasant surprise and, frankly, a huge relief after 22 months, the Motul stabilizer must have worked.
Stow the gear, change out of my hazmat suit and of course, tend to the horse first. A quick 15 minute oil change later and Mia is purring like the kitten she is. Purrrrrfect. She's a very easy bike to maintain.
Stefan is building a huge addition to his storage area.
t also has a full basement that extends all the way out to under the paver patio. There's going to be a "bike elevator" here to help move things around.
The basement extends out to the edge of the sofa and chairs.
Met Stefan's wife, who owns this little beauty. Forza Italia!
Tucked in for the night...
Mia too...
Time for some sleep and to get on local time.
I am 22 months out of practice! It is completely odd to fly, at least for me, right now. But having said that, United made it pretty easy. Upload your passport and vaccine info via their app, they "review and approve" them and you're good to go with boarding passes issued (supposedly; more on that later). Virtually no line at Tucson airport; my biggest hang up is that metal detectors just love me. Zero issues flying in my riding suit; everyone was jealous of the guy sporting hazmat apparel...😂
Speaking of, get to the gate, sit down, woman across from me asks, "Is that a riding suit?" Why, yes, do you ride? Conversation ensues with her and her husband. Despite the masks, we quickly realize we know each other...they are former Tucson residents and we were all members of a local BMW club years ago. They've since moved to Texas and it was wonderful swapping stories, motorcycle and otherwise; the waiting time flew by. Small world.
My flight was delayed for want of a crew, and I got to Denver with juuuuuust enough time for the Frankfurt connection: "Final call for Lufthansa flight..." is paging as I hit the gate. But wait, no, I'm sent back to the counter for "document validation." All good, I'm on, pull away from the gate...and sit for almost an hour, some kind of paperwork issue. Maybe they thought submitting the documents online was good enough...nope.
We're all issued surgical masks before boarding and the flight is about half full, which is great. Alcohol is severely limited, you get some wine with dinner but that's it. Oh, well. We land about 12:15 pm local time, I'm picked up by Christopher from Stefan's Moto B&B at the "meeting point," cleverly labeled by signs directing you to the "meeting point" and it's off to Heidelberg. Customs was a breeze, all they did was check my passport and CDC card.
An accident on the autobahn has us sitting for about 30 minutes and is an opportunity to show what happens when there's stopped traffic in Germany...the cars slide toward the outer edges of the roadway, creating a large gap in the middle, ostensibly for emergency vehicles (if necessary) and perfect for motorcycles.
Like this:
Awesome if you're riding; simply smart otherwise.
At Stefan's, Mia and all my stuff are waiting outside my room, including the new Wilbers shock. The four year old battery has been replaced and she starts right up. My first pleasant surprise and, frankly, a huge relief after 22 months, the Motul stabilizer must have worked.
Stow the gear, change out of my hazmat suit and of course, tend to the horse first. A quick 15 minute oil change later and Mia is purring like the kitten she is. Purrrrrfect. She's a very easy bike to maintain.
Stefan is building a huge addition to his storage area.
t also has a full basement that extends all the way out to under the paver patio. There's going to be a "bike elevator" here to help move things around.
The basement extends out to the edge of the sofa and chairs.
Met Stefan's wife, who owns this little beauty. Forza Italia!
Tucked in for the night...
Mia too...
Time for some sleep and to get on local time.
kickstandsup
Why not?
The next day, I take care of the Green Card insurance with Christopher and learn that right now, coverage still extends to the UK should we ever want to go there again...that noise you hear is my wife jumping up and down screaming "Yea!" A few other little maintenance issues and it's time for a shakedown ride. I've planned a nice loop along the Neckar River.
Scenic, a few construction zones, and Mia is running great. More good news; wanted to suss out any problems before I go to the dealer tomorrow to have the new rear shock installed.
The Neckar River has some very interesting transport barges. Long and low, they have almost no bow, especially when loaded, it looks like the water could come right over the side.
Mia is now sporting new Techspec tank pads like her sister Ginger...nice and grippy!
Back at Stefan's, I've got company. By that I mean he lays there and ignores me because: cat not dog.
Tomorrow it is off to the BMW dealer for new Road 5s, brake fluid and the Wilbers shock installation.
Scenic, a few construction zones, and Mia is running great. More good news; wanted to suss out any problems before I go to the dealer tomorrow to have the new rear shock installed.
The Neckar River has some very interesting transport barges. Long and low, they have almost no bow, especially when loaded, it looks like the water could come right over the side.
Mia is now sporting new Techspec tank pads like her sister Ginger...nice and grippy!
Back at Stefan's, I've got company. By that I mean he lays there and ignores me because: cat not dog.
Tomorrow it is off to the BMW dealer for new Road 5s, brake fluid and the Wilbers shock installation.
kickstandsup
Why not?
Although it rained overnight, by morning it is only cloudy and a bit chilly for a desert rat, but the day warms quickly. Uneventful and FAST ride north on the autobahn to the BMW dealer.
Got there about 10 minutes before they opened.
Mia gets taken around back, and I'm served up some coffee while I enjoy the scenery.
Who says carbon fiber is only for Ducati?
Hermetically sealed for your protection...
The SOS button
Triggered either automatically or manually, the system sends satnav coordinates to a call center that initiates the rescue chain. Of course, not offered in the US. 😤
Even the scooters get the high-tech TFT dash.
Mia gets her bling on.
And just like with Ginger, the ride and handling is transformed: firm, plush and supple, all combined. New tires and brake fluid; I'm all set.
Tomorrow, the Ride Begins!
Got there about 10 minutes before they opened.
Mia gets taken around back, and I'm served up some coffee while I enjoy the scenery.
Who says carbon fiber is only for Ducati?
Hermetically sealed for your protection...
The SOS button
Triggered either automatically or manually, the system sends satnav coordinates to a call center that initiates the rescue chain. Of course, not offered in the US. 😤
Even the scooters get the high-tech TFT dash.
Mia gets her bling on.
And just like with Ginger, the ride and handling is transformed: firm, plush and supple, all combined. New tires and brake fluid; I'm all set.
Tomorrow, the Ride Begins!
kickstandsup
Why not?
Der Schwarzwald
The weather looked good and on Stefan's recommendation, I headed to Wolfach, in the Black Forest. In 2019, I transited thru on my way to France, hardly giving the area its due. The autobahn to Baden-Baden is the quick way from Heidelberg to the start of the Black Forest "good stuff," but did that last time so, instead, I plotted a less direct route. Looks like this:
Thru little villages and farmland, it was a slow, but pleasant, ride. Little bitty roads.
Some with, wait for it, vineyards...who knew?
Climb, baby, climb!
Break time!
Ridge road, at least for a while...
But then...it's not called The Black Forest for nuthin'
The photos give no sense of the steepness, and the incline of the road. Had to put a rock under the kickstand foot so I could lift the bike back up!
Eventually, it opens up.
The weather looked good and on Stefan's recommendation, I headed to Wolfach, in the Black Forest. In 2019, I transited thru on my way to France, hardly giving the area its due. The autobahn to Baden-Baden is the quick way from Heidelberg to the start of the Black Forest "good stuff," but did that last time so, instead, I plotted a less direct route. Looks like this:
Thru little villages and farmland, it was a slow, but pleasant, ride. Little bitty roads.
Some with, wait for it, vineyards...who knew?
Climb, baby, climb!
Break time!
Ridge road, at least for a while...
But then...it's not called The Black Forest for nuthin'
The photos give no sense of the steepness, and the incline of the road. Had to put a rock under the kickstand foot so I could lift the bike back up!
Eventually, it opens up.
JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
I love Southern Germany, my name even represents it!
