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Tool Kits - Bare Minimum or Maxi Kit

I have tubes and am looking into a patch kit. Anyone have any recommendations? I’m finding mixed reviews so far.

I’ll be carrying a spare 21” tube as well.
 
While crescent wrenches are a dime a dozen, if you pick the right one (brandname is best) they can be very useful when all else fails. I picked up a Craftsman 10" crescent many years ago, on a trip (when I needed to tighten a stubborn locknut) and while pricey, it still functions perfectly. The old ones I have were made by Crescent in Sweden and are both like new. The key is to look for a tight mechanism and slide rails in the tool. The sacrificial wrench (K-Mart) I loan out is best used as a BFH... :lol2 YMMV
 
Tank Bag LINK HERE:
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  • SAE extension
  • Heated Visor plug
  • Tire Pressure Gauge
  • USB cable
  • Tissues
  • Glass Cleaner
  • Rain-X
  • 30A Fuses
  • Rain Cover
  • 10' USB cable
  • SAE to USB adapter
Saddle Bag LINK HERE:
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  • Front Tire Tube
  • Rear Tire Tube
  • Compressor
  • Toilet Paper
  • MotionPro Bead Buddy
  • AAA Batteries
  • SAE to Alligator Clamps
  • Cargo Net
  • Fuel Line
  • Sweatshirt
Tool Tube LINK HERE:
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  • USB Cable
  • MotionPro Tire Spoons
  • MotionPro Bead Breakers
  • Stock Tool Kit
  • Registration Paperwork
  • ACE Bandage
  • ZipTies
  • SAE to Alligator Clamps
  • Tire Stem Fishing Wire
  • Lighter
  • Allen Wrenches
  • Knife
Wolfman Medium Rollie:
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  • T-Handle and Socket Set
  • Paracord
  • Knife
  • Allen Wrench
  • Zipties
  • Gorilla Tape
  • Buckles
  • SAE to Eye Loop Connectors
  • Strapping
  • Bug Spray
  • Spare Charging Unit for GPS
  • Spare Bolts
  • JB Weld and Other Apoxy (needs replacement)
Nitrous:
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  • Nets about 30 miles of run time
Stand:
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  • Made from cut crutch
  • Works fine for what it is
The complete unit:
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You had me at the heated visor plug.... :vardy
Man I got so fed up. I did the sprays, cat crap, pin lock, and everything else to stop that stupid thing from fogging up. heated visor solved everything.
 
I posted this in the KLX230 thread, but this is a good place for it as well...

I've been on a quest to reduce the amount of weight I carry on the bike... so I have downsized what I carry to the following:

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That is everything I need to deal with a flat tire. The 14mm hex socket and 17mm socket along with the Facom Socket/Bit driver set go in the OEM tool bag in place of the stock tools. Everything else goes in my tail bag. The Facom kit isn't cheap, but it is really high quality, and very compact.

The thing on the left is a tube for a 21" tire, zipped inside a ziplock bag, and then taped up with duct tape to protect it and keep it a manageable size. In a pinch, the 21" tube can be used in the 18" rear tire to get me back to camp where I will have a full set of tools and proper sized tubes.

My wife carries a first aid kit, sunscreen and lunch. We both wear a hydration pack for water.

The only additional things I carry not shown above are about 5 really heavy duty zip ties, and a sun hat to wear when I'm off the bike. When I get a flat tire, I first try the zip ties... about 4 of them around the tire/rim to keep the tire on the rim. I've had three flat tires in the last 12 years of riding, and two of those times, the zip ties got me home.
 
Can't help it but I'm a tool nerd. This kit is both for my 701 and my KTM EXC 450. Normally I wouldn't need 3 tire levers but I'm running Tubliss and discovered it really helps to have a third tire lever if I do need to take the tire off for whatever reason.





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Can't help it but I'm a tool nerd. This kit is both for my 701 and my KTM EXC 450. Normally I wouldn't need 3 tire levers but I'm running Tubliss and discovered it really helps to have a third tire lever if I do need to take the tire off for whatever reason.





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Have any masters and a spare section to go with that breaker?
 
Have any masters and a spare section to go with that breaker?
Naturally, but the breaker is used on my 701. The first gear on a 701 or 690 is so tall that it sucks riding technical stuff. I put a 52 on the rear but that means I can't drop the chain of the sprocket when taking the wheel out. I need to 'split' the chain so I'm running a master link instead of rivetted links :-)
 
About that. Is it very likely that more than a few links will get trashed by pinching a rock or some other damage?

Instead of carrying a few master links and a length of chain, I was thinking about carrying an appropriate number of clip-on master links and skipping the chain. If that was done, how many links would be prudent (4 ?), and what tool would be best for driving pins out of damaged links on the trail?
So you want to carry 4 masters and 4 inner links?

I carry this much chain and 1 master for each end. If more than 4 full links (inner and outer) get damaged I guess I'm s.o.l. If less than 4 I can just replace 4 with this section and move along or break this into what I need. Wife and I both run the same chain so this along with the rest of my kit covers 2 bikes. Now if we both break a chain....
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I only know of one chain press that is pack sized that will reliably press multiple pins up to 530 size and I have the only one.:D:D:D
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Four masters and a few inners to bridge whatever gets damaged.


This seems to make more sense. Two masters, and a short section of chain, to be reduced as needed.


I recall the saga. :photog
I wonder how well a lighter C with a removeable bridge plate over the open end would work.

If D.I.D made a lighter trail version of their KM500, it might be The One. I'm sure some people carry that beast with them on the bike, but it's a heavy sucker.

View attachment 46971
I ran out of dollars before I got to test that one and nobody tells what size chain it's good for or what it weighs. I have heard it's bulky though. EK chain makes one that appears to be reasonably sized and they claim works on all sizes. Many of them recommend right in the instructions to grind the rivet head off and that's no goods in the woods.
 
I only know of one chain press that is pack sized that will reliably press multiple pins up to 530 size and I have the only one.:D:D:D
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I assume that 'I have the only one' means you made it yourself? If so nice!
 
oPAULo - Barring a production run of Paul's Chain Tool of Destiny, what do you recommend for a trail tool?

Until I see a private individual post a pile of links like this.....
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Or like this...
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And show the tool unscathed and ready for more, I guess I can't recommend any of them.
The D.I.D. press looks promising but I've read a couple reviews that say otherwise.
Buy one and test it out for us!!! Push a dozen pins.

I assume that 'I have the only one' means you made it yourself? If so nice!
After purchasing 2 different motion pro toolkit presses and 2 harbor freight presses and handling a bunch of others and ruining them all I made this. The harbor freight hardware proved to be superior to the rest but the body was weak so I made a compact body out of 4140 to accept the harbor freight hardware. Whichever you get, the major weakness is the length of the pressing pin. There is no need to press the pin clear through both sides of the chain. Cut the pin down short so it doesn't bend so easy. You only need to press through one plate and it comes apart. I should add that if you run a 520 chain that is NOT EK MVXZ2 the motion pro presses might be fine. EK MVXZ2 520 chains have 530 size pins in them and are a BEAR to press. Even motion pro mentions these chains and says to grind the head off first. It took me months, maybe a year, to figure all this out. I broke a lot of pressing pins.
 
Definitely grind off the head of the pin first, especially if working with solid pins ie end not drilled to make upsetting easier. Solid pins are peened over like rivet heads.
 
Definitely grind off the head of the pin first, especially if working with solid pins ie end not drilled to make upsetting easier. Solid pins are peened over like rivet heads.
Pretty hard to do trailside. A trailside press should punch them right through, many times.
 
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And show the tool unscathed and ready for more, I guess I can't recommend any of them.
The D.I.D. press looks promising but I've read a couple reviews that say otherwise.
Buy one and test it out for us!!! Push a dozen pins.


After purchasing 2 different motion pro toolkit presses and 2 harbor freight presses and handling a bunch of others and ruining them all I made this. The harbor freight hardware proved to be superior to the rest but the body was weak so I made a compact body out of 4140 to accept the harbor freight hardware. Whichever you get, the major weakness is the length of the pressing pin. There is no need to press the pin clear through both sides of the chain. Cut the pin down short so it doesn't bend so easy. You only need to press through one plate and it comes apart. I should add that if you run a 520 chain that is NOT EK MVXZ2 the motion pro presses might be fine. EK MVXZ2 520 chains have 530 size pins in them and are a BEAR to press. Even motion pro mentions these chains and says to grind the head off first. It took me months, maybe a year, to figure all this out. I broke a lot of pressing pins.

Any idea how much yours weighs?

Indeed the pins are the weak point. However, if you cut them short you most likely need to grind them since they are hardened. Grinding means heat so this would require some extremely careful grinding to prevent losing its temper. It doesn't take much heat to lose the temper.

I don't carry the MP chain breaker to actually break riveted chain pins but more as a press to push out the master link and press on the master link plate of my o-ring chain. The MP chain breaker is very lightweight as in 'not very strong'. I believe MP doesn't even sell them anymore.
 
I really like that alum tool box above

I carry this tool kit in Viking Enduro Bags, along with a tube, jumper cables, etc
The most valuable thing is the box of fasteners.
I needed a header nut once, and have helped several fellow riders on the trail over the years.

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