What's new
By:
Filters

TPI KTM/Husky/GasGas 2 stroke bikes

Sorta thinking about changing up my gearing. Anyone running a 12/52? My manual says stock is 13/50, but mine came with 13/52 and I was thinking I could use a little more bottom end.
 
12/52 is too short for my liking, it wears me out too fast in the forest. But it’s always worth experimenting, the sprockets are cheap.

The hi comp head makes the TPI more luggable as well.
 
Oldbear said:
12/52 is too short for my liking, it wears me out too fast in the forest. But it’s always worth experimenting, the sprockets are cheap.

The hi comp head makes the TPI more luggable as well.
Click to expand...
I sorta figured the same, but it's cheap to play some. Not ready for the head yet but in time maybe. An ecu could be down the road also
 
Before I ask on our other forum, will my OBD2 give me the rpms to set my power value? I made a tool today to do so. I also have a red spring. But before swapping it for the yellow I want to check to see where it's been set by the factory/dealer. The adjuster of about an 1/8" below flush. I know that can be deceiving cause not all are created equal
 
Yes, you can see current rpms via the OBD (if that's what you were asking).

This is the data you get from the TPI via OBD2 with a simple reader.

UkoGJW1.jpg
 
Oldbear said:
Yes, you can see current rpms via the OBD (if that's what you were asking).

This is the data you get from the TPI via OBD2 with a simple reader.

UkoGJW1.jpg
Click to expand...

That's what I was hoping. I just want to set the power value where they call for as a baseline. I believe mine could be setup to open at a higher Rev than it should be. Don't know anything about these beast, totally new to the 2T world
 
Not sure it's a fix or not. But other than my poor riding skill. He's the scoop. Last year I ran the Ibex on my 17-501 in Wyoming with very good results. Traction was out of this world and I actually got really good wear, 2000 miles. But that was a mix of about any and all kinds of riding. Slab, gravel, double and single track. So now I bought this 22-te300i and figured I'd run the same, well 15 hours and it losing knobs already. Only difference is the 501 is a 120 and the 300i has the 110. Oh and both have mousse. I'm thinking I'm spinning the 300i more and possibly the flywheel weight will help lug a tad more. Since I'm planning on Idaho I know I'll be in a lot of granite and loose rock I definitely want a gummy tire. Figure my experience would be about the same on anyone of gummy out there.

Think the flywheel weight will help my poor clutch control. No I don't want a rekluse. But I did put a clake 2on the 17-501 this winter. The jury is still out on it tho, not totally sure I like it neither.
 
SnakeOiler said:
Not sure it's a fix or not. But other than my poor riding skill. He's the scoop. Last year I ran the Ibex on my 17-501 in Wyoming with very good results. Traction was out of this world and I actually got really good wear, 2000 miles. But that was a mix of about any and all kinds of riding. Slab, gravel, double and single track. So now I bought this 22-te300i and figured I'd run the same, well 15 hours and it losing knobs already. Only difference is the 501 is a 120 and the 300i has the 110. Oh and both have mousse. I'm thinking I'm spinning the 300i more and possibly the flywheel weight will help lug a tad more. Since I'm planning on Idaho I know I'll be in a lot of granite and loose rock I definitely want a gummy tire. Figure my experience would be about the same on anyone of gummy out there.

Think the flywheel weight will help my poor clutch control. No I don't want a rekluse. But I did put a clake 2on the 17-501 this winter. The jury is still out on it tho, not totally sure I like it neither.
Click to expand...

I would not put one on to fix any tire wear issues. 2000 miles out of a dirtbike tire is crazy. 15 hours sounds about right. I like the 110 size tires because they make the bike turn in quicker and make it feel lighter but many people run the larger size to calm a bike down, similar to a flywheel weight.

I would suggest just working on the clutch control a few days a week, for 30 min at a time. Just get out and ride a around, working on keeping the clutch right in the friction zone. It is good that you realize that you need to work on the clutch control. Many think, just because they can ride a motorcycle without stalling it when starting out from a stop, they have good clutch control. Clutch control is something I work on almost every time I ride my bike.

I try to avoid trying to get people to buy another bike but there is a bike that I would recommend you take a look at. It will help a lot in the riding skill department. Stop on over to my place if you want to take one for a spin.
 
Oh I know I suck, but probably better than a lot. This is my first 2t and the power delivery is definitely different than the 4t. You mentioned something tho, I'm thinking I want to use the 120 on both bikes, simply because that means I need less spare parts while traveling. Tires and mousse take up a lot of space and I don't want to carry them on the roof where thee sun will kill them, especially the mousse.
 
SnakeOiler said:
Oh I know I suck, but probably better than a lot. This is my first 2t and the power delivery is definitely different than the 4t. You mentioned something tho, I'm thinking I want to use the 120 on both bikes, simply because that means I need less spare parts while traveling. Tires and mousse take up a lot of space and I don't want to carry them on the roof where thee sun will kill them, especially the mousse.
Click to expand...

Like I mentioned, it is good that you admit you have stuff that needs to be worked on. It does not take a lot of effort to work on it. Many people think just because they have been riding bikes for 20 or 40 years, they are automatically really accomplished riders. I know many people who have been diving for that long and are awful drivers.

Try a green power valve spring and the 120 tire. The gummy tires have some odd characteristics, if you let them freeze, that could cause them to shed knobs. So, just because one lasted longer, could be because of how the tire was treated.
 
Yinzer Moto said:
Like I mentioned, it is good that you admit you have stuff that needs to be worked on. It does not take a lot of effort to work on it. Many people think just because they have been riding bikes for 20 or 40 years, they are automatically really accomplished riders. I know many people who have been diving for that long and are awful drivers.
Click to expand...
I never knew that! :D
 
I'm here to party!

275838550_10102360979994516_7083435925397050463_n.jpg


It's only got about 3 hours on it so far. I've got all the doo-dads coming in the mail as we speak (handguards, skid plate, etc...).

I'm loving 2T life so far. A little scary the first time I rode it, but I'm getting used to it now and can see where the advantages are--especially climbing hills.
 
AverageExplorer said:
I'm here to party!

275838550_10102360979994516_7083435925397050463_n.jpg


It's only got about 3 hours on it so far. I've got all the doo-dads coming in the mail as we speak (handguards, skid plate, etc...).

I'm loving 2T life so far. A little scary the first time I rode it, but I'm getting used to it now and can see where the advantages are--especially climbing hills.
Click to expand...

Pretty red riding hood 😆
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom Back Refresh