morsetaper2 rather than quoting both of your posts I'll just say...nice! I love homemade tools made to do a specific job. Really, nothing makes me happier to see. Good job, man!
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Welding & Fabrication
- Thread starter MVI
- Start date
IIRC , I only paid $300 for mine, a decade ago or so
HTP America® Tungsten Grinder
Purchase a tungsten grinder and receive a free diamond wheel, while supplies last.Still sharpening your tungsten electrodes on a dirty, worn grinding wheel? Then you need an HTP America® Tungsten Grinder, the perfect accessory for both the professional and the part-time welder. Our tungsten...
usaweld.com
psykown
Well-known member
I like that! I need to make a swingarm stand for my Sprint right now, The single sided swing arm looks great but doesnt play well with my current stands. Yes the bike has a center stand but I want that flexibility of having a stand as well
They make a took for this?IIRC , I only paid $300 for mine, a decade ago or so
HTP America® Tungsten Grinder
Purchase a tungsten grinder and receive a free diamond wheel, while supplies last.Still sharpening your tungsten electrodes on a dirty, worn grinding wheel? Then you need an HTP America® Tungsten Grinder, the perfect accessory for both the professional and the part-time welder. Our tungsten...usaweld.com
Didn't realize just how much of a pleb I was until now 😁
The old school way was using a dedicated grinding wheel just for grinding Tungsten. Otherwise you will contaminate the electrode.
There are more specific dedicated wheels and jigs for grinding available
HTP (and others) is a handheld unit, 120v and battery powered
plus larger stationary grinders like this
There are more specific dedicated wheels and jigs for grinding available
HTP (and others) is a handheld unit, 120v and battery powered
plus larger stationary grinders like this
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Oldtrialer
Well-known member
Since there are two fat tire e bikes in the house now, I needed a way to lift them for maintenance. Put this together the last two days. Only purchase was winch and hold down clamp from HF. Need to drill a hole to index the clamp from rotating so the whole bike lifts up if needed. Works good. Just need to clean up a few temporary items. I did just enough to prove it would work.
BTW, I clean my tungsten on the side of grinding wheel.
BTW, I clean my tungsten on the side of grinding wheel.
JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
That is pretty cool, and strong looking. Looks like it breaks down for easy storage too!
Oldtrialer
Well-known member
I can take the feet off and store it behind the mill.
Oldtrialer
Well-known member
I never noticed a similar one. I checked out clamps, but came up with my idea at HF this morning while getting the winch.
Danno
Well-known member
Wow..I have been in fab work for the wrong customers. Actually bike racks and hitches were great money. But $3k for a bike lift?
Oldtrialer
Well-known member
I guess they have a counter weight in the tube. That's a good idea.
matty
Border raider.
I have started work on my old 2002 nissan d22 double cab pick up (£200).
Its reasonable on the chassis and cab, the rear tub was very rotten, but i wanted a tray back build anyway.
The frame is a typical 21 year old Japanese box section frame suffering from 21 winters worth of road salt assisted corrosion of the roads here.
starting at the back which is now fully exposed as the body tub is now gone and ready for a tray back, i started by angle grinder wire brushing and linishing disks and grinding disks to clean up the rails and crossmembers which as gone ok, with just one area needing a small plate so far . I am seeing lots of corrosion inside the frame sections and i have made small scrappers from steel and 10mm threaded bar and gone down the sections pulling out the dirt and rusty chunks shead from the inside of the sections over the years i have done this on landrovers and daihatsus and nissan patrols i have had. There is chunks of rust and , there is a fair bit of it and its nessasary to cut out sections of plate underneath to get in and remove the old dirt and debris to stop it holding yet more moisture and salt and continuing to eat the japanese truck frame sections away for another 21 years.
I have found a good way of accesing the frame at its lowest point and being able to clear out pretty well, and yet apply oil/ waxoil or even paints zink primers and even repeat apply or wash out/ drain water long term.
I worked it out 40 years ago now you can just about work through a 18mm hole in the very bottom of the chassis and get the average shall we say chunk of rust out of the 18mm hole and yet get in with a hose pipe on the shop vac to suck out the old sand and salt..
I Just cut out a 18mm hole in the bottom in a possition i can get to that section of frame box, and simply weld a m12 nut on am 18mm washer and just grind it down when i clean up the hole and a 10 inch piece of m 12mm threaded bar and hold it in place and weld around the washer, then just screw in a m12 bolt with a lock washer. then move on to the next corner and repeat. Its handy to for fastening and brake or fuel pipe clamp brackets on too.
Its not like its ever going to be as good as a brand new frame, but its about all you can practically do working with an old relic of a Nissan.
The rear load tub was very rotten and would have been a mamoth welding project in itself and tottaly impractical in my opinion, but a tray back is practical to use in my case and my needs, and i can fabricate a strong solid much easier to keep clean tray back. I intend to strengthen the original frame with additional crossmembers and diagonal bracing in the form of a structural sub frame utilising the 6 original mounting points and four more bridged and rubber stoped contact areas to effectively brace the rear of the frame stronger than the original tub then bolt my acctual tray deck and guards to that structural subframe to strengthen it even more.
The additionaly will be considerably lighter than the old pressed steel tub fitted as standard.
Its reasonable on the chassis and cab, the rear tub was very rotten, but i wanted a tray back build anyway.
The frame is a typical 21 year old Japanese box section frame suffering from 21 winters worth of road salt assisted corrosion of the roads here.
starting at the back which is now fully exposed as the body tub is now gone and ready for a tray back, i started by angle grinder wire brushing and linishing disks and grinding disks to clean up the rails and crossmembers which as gone ok, with just one area needing a small plate so far . I am seeing lots of corrosion inside the frame sections and i have made small scrappers from steel and 10mm threaded bar and gone down the sections pulling out the dirt and rusty chunks shead from the inside of the sections over the years i have done this on landrovers and daihatsus and nissan patrols i have had. There is chunks of rust and , there is a fair bit of it and its nessasary to cut out sections of plate underneath to get in and remove the old dirt and debris to stop it holding yet more moisture and salt and continuing to eat the japanese truck frame sections away for another 21 years.
I have found a good way of accesing the frame at its lowest point and being able to clear out pretty well, and yet apply oil/ waxoil or even paints zink primers and even repeat apply or wash out/ drain water long term.
I worked it out 40 years ago now you can just about work through a 18mm hole in the very bottom of the chassis and get the average shall we say chunk of rust out of the 18mm hole and yet get in with a hose pipe on the shop vac to suck out the old sand and salt..
I Just cut out a 18mm hole in the bottom in a possition i can get to that section of frame box, and simply weld a m12 nut on am 18mm washer and just grind it down when i clean up the hole and a 10 inch piece of m 12mm threaded bar and hold it in place and weld around the washer, then just screw in a m12 bolt with a lock washer. then move on to the next corner and repeat. Its handy to for fastening and brake or fuel pipe clamp brackets on too.
Its not like its ever going to be as good as a brand new frame, but its about all you can practically do working with an old relic of a Nissan.
The rear load tub was very rotten and would have been a mamoth welding project in itself and tottaly impractical in my opinion, but a tray back is practical to use in my case and my needs, and i can fabricate a strong solid much easier to keep clean tray back. I intend to strengthen the original frame with additional crossmembers and diagonal bracing in the form of a structural sub frame utilising the 6 original mounting points and four more bridged and rubber stoped contact areas to effectively brace the rear of the frame stronger than the original tub then bolt my acctual tray deck and guards to that structural subframe to strengthen it even more.
The additionaly will be considerably lighter than the old pressed steel tub fitted as standard.
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Alan F.
Well-known member
Danno
Well-known member
Red can corrosionx!!
There are also phosphoric acid washes which can be used on bare steel to phosphatize it to prevent rust from returning as quickly. home Depot here in the US sells a metal prep wash that does the trick. Turns steel a nice black color. Wipe down and paint over, seems to work quite well.
Danno
Well-known member
Heavy scale will almost fall off after a couple wd40 soakings. Suface rust and scale is different. If I dont remove the scale, I soak it in light penetrating oil. The scale can also be mechanically removed with a needle scaler. Best to catch the situation when it is just surface rust.
matty
Border raider.
Thanks for the product advice everyone, i find the generally smaller section but thicker wall frame box on jap trucks particularly hard to access well to shift the scale, in the case of landrovers even the narrower frame sections on short wheel base models accessing the rails is easier with more physical room. Yet a big downside to the landrovers is the frame section steel is of lighter gauge steel than the typical jap trucks from the late 60s to present day.
I have used por 15 to prime the cleaned out rails and it seems to help slow rusting internally when used before putting some diesel to slosh around in the sections, the thing i like about diesel is its a creeper it finds its way via capillary action i think its termed up any rusty metal even when stationary. the 18mm washers at the low points on the framework not only let out any water that gets in by simply removing the M12 bolt they allow washing out and n there adding any oil diesel. the enemy from what i can tell is water ingress through the frame section vent holes which do allow dirt salt and water in, but they equally allow it to dry out too to some extent.
Some of the cross members on this Nissan are profiled open C section which though perhaps not just as strong as a closed box(Ok that's Debatable ) it is at least easy to keep an eye on for rust.
The Nissan D22 IFS frame area is an area they can rust bad on the front cross member section, mine on this truck seem so far to be good, in fact for its age its generally good news from what i have seen so far.
Even the main double cab body has just a outer rocker panel rear half needs welding and a couple of minor plates near the same off side rear body mounting area, fairly easy to access and repair.
.
I have used por 15 to prime the cleaned out rails and it seems to help slow rusting internally when used before putting some diesel to slosh around in the sections, the thing i like about diesel is its a creeper it finds its way via capillary action i think its termed up any rusty metal even when stationary. the 18mm washers at the low points on the framework not only let out any water that gets in by simply removing the M12 bolt they allow washing out and n there adding any oil diesel. the enemy from what i can tell is water ingress through the frame section vent holes which do allow dirt salt and water in, but they equally allow it to dry out too to some extent.
Some of the cross members on this Nissan are profiled open C section which though perhaps not just as strong as a closed box(Ok that's Debatable ) it is at least easy to keep an eye on for rust.
The Nissan D22 IFS frame area is an area they can rust bad on the front cross member section, mine on this truck seem so far to be good, in fact for its age its generally good news from what i have seen so far.
Even the main double cab body has just a outer rocker panel rear half needs welding and a couple of minor plates near the same off side rear body mounting area, fairly easy to access and repair.
.
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Danno
Well-known member
Hey Matty
Is scale a problem there. The shop was charging up to 2k per side for Toyota Tacoma frames. All that was left was the radius in the frame tubes after scaling. We plated all 4 sides to the suspension mounts. Every model had a failure. Ford escapes shock tower on the passenger side blew out on every one in the northern salt belt. Euro brand were only Mercedes spring mount issue for the most part. But we fixed model generations on rust failure. It was bread and butter. Ha....and I wont mention Honda!!!!
Is scale a problem there. The shop was charging up to 2k per side for Toyota Tacoma frames. All that was left was the radius in the frame tubes after scaling. We plated all 4 sides to the suspension mounts. Every model had a failure. Ford escapes shock tower on the passenger side blew out on every one in the northern salt belt. Euro brand were only Mercedes spring mount issue for the most part. But we fixed model generations on rust failure. It was bread and butter. Ha....and I wont mention Honda!!!!
matty
Border raider.
The Jap truck frames ( Chassis in the UK) are all more or less the same, i think the D22 earlier D21 hardbody and the hyluxes proper are the best of those two brands and the Nissan D40 and from what i can tell the Tacoma are probably more prone to rust IMO, The Mitsubishi L200 and Isuzus seem similar and ditto the ford ranger/ Mazda B2500s.
The Suvs have the advantage of an all encompassing as in full length welded body bolted to the frame this adds strength and rigidity and helps certainly with any frame cracking but not as such with the corrosion issues within the frames.
Any truck aas such will have a potential weak zone if you like where the load tub and the truck cab meet, the fact these two parts of the truck are In my experience never bolted together the frame itself at this point is on its own, and would not hurt from being braced / strengthened in this area of the frame. My sub frame rear chassis section reinforcement, is a heath robinson option for stoping flex and spreading the load if you like from the weak area, the reduced weight might just help too, though by the time i add up the subframe and the deck i will probably only save a couple of hundred pounds.
I do get the heat shielding exhaust idea too, and as pointed out though the diesels have less heat in this respect its still worth mentioning many diesel trucks and suvs have such shields and i will incorporate one where the rear of the cab and the main silencer are close, i noticed this only the other day and was suprised nissan did not have a shield from factory, but i guess it was radiating any heat towards the underside of the rear tub and they perhaps saw no need but who knows might add up to why they rot so well.
The Suvs have the advantage of an all encompassing as in full length welded body bolted to the frame this adds strength and rigidity and helps certainly with any frame cracking but not as such with the corrosion issues within the frames.
Any truck aas such will have a potential weak zone if you like where the load tub and the truck cab meet, the fact these two parts of the truck are In my experience never bolted together the frame itself at this point is on its own, and would not hurt from being braced / strengthened in this area of the frame. My sub frame rear chassis section reinforcement, is a heath robinson option for stoping flex and spreading the load if you like from the weak area, the reduced weight might just help too, though by the time i add up the subframe and the deck i will probably only save a couple of hundred pounds.
I do get the heat shielding exhaust idea too, and as pointed out though the diesels have less heat in this respect its still worth mentioning many diesel trucks and suvs have such shields and i will incorporate one where the rear of the cab and the main silencer are close, i noticed this only the other day and was suprised nissan did not have a shield from factory, but i guess it was radiating any heat towards the underside of the rear tub and they perhaps saw no need but who knows might add up to why they rot so well.