GSAddict
Member
Check that the Vent valve is plugged in
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What did you do to your BMW GS/GSA Today?
- Thread starter JimVonBaden
- Start date
JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
Fortunately this is an insignificant fault, especially if you no longer have the canister.
GSAddict
Member
If you want to permanently silence that code, put a 150 ohm 1/2 watt resistor across the connector.
Replaced cluster bulbs with LED's
Callisto224
Member
Strangely enough, you were correct. I haven't taken off the Tupperware in over a year but, the plug was loose and threw a code after 6k+ miles (2.5 miles before I ran the scan yesterday).
Rest of the service went smoothly! Gotta love the honey color of the new oil in the sight glass!
Love mine and I understood they used to be metal. The video shows them taping off Tupperware and I could not figure out why until I found out they were metal. I would have liked mine metal.
That said a quick 2 day trip around the Finger Lakes and 750 miles and I am truly impressed! It is amazing what it stops in all the categories.
Pricey, but a lot of work went into design on it and it fits really slick.
Was that the first spline lube? Or asked another way what was the miles on that FD. It looks like it was serviced, just ready again?Strangely enough, you were correct. I haven't taken off the Tupperware in over a year but, the plug was loose and threw a code after 6k+ miles (2.5 miles before I ran the scan yesterday).
Rest of the service went smoothly! Gotta love the honey color of the new oil in the sight glass!
And yes it is a very nice feeling to see that golden blood when new, and at least half a black window when it is run in.
Callisto224
Member
The last time I lubed the splines was last year, 6,000 miles ago. 30k miles on bike now.
I went out for a ride and for the first time in 15 years and 93000 miles it left me stranded. It just went dead as I was cruising along and I suspect the fuel pump controller. I have the Burns Moto jumper but it's in the tool box in my shop.
Thankfully, I was only about 20 miles from home.
Thankfully, I was only about 20 miles from home.
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Thank you. Just checking as I skipped mine on this 12K service and now think when I have the time I am going to take a peek.
Do you ride dirt, or mix, or mainly street? The only reason I ask is 6k is probably more then I care to do considering how they come from the factory. Mine was dry and slight rust at 600 miles. With a wire brush on a dremel tool, I cleaned it and used Honda Moly on it. I did us the German white paste to seal the boot as I bought it when I had the 15 and I will use it till gone. I have to say my rear boot was sealed very tight. BMW did a great job on that on mine as that is said to be a huge concern if you ride rain and do water crossings. I only qualify for the rain part.
Have you pulled the top on yours ever? I been procrastinating on that and is why I skipped the rear on the 24K. As when I do the rear I am going to take deep breaths and do the top.
I read a post somewhere where you use a string to pull it up the housing, and also use that or something else as a sling to support it while you try to get that snap ring to click.
I am not sure if it was a post by Jim or not?
Sorry for you troubles. Sounds like you have a good idea of what your after. Let us know how you make out.I went out for a ride and for the first time in 15 years and 93000 miles it left me stranded. It just went dead as I was cruising along and I suspect the fuel pump controller. I have the Burns Moto jumper but it's in the tool box in my shop.
Thankfully, I was only about 20 miles from home.
After taking it apart and looking at the connectors, I'm amazed that the bike ran at all!
It started up just fine with the jumper after I cleaned everything. I then re-connected the old controller and....nothing. BMW mothership wants $250 for a new controller so I ordered one from EME for $175.
The bike will just have to sit in the garage until I get the new controller.
It started up just fine with the jumper after I cleaned everything. I then re-connected the old controller and....nothing. BMW mothership wants $250 for a new controller so I ordered one from EME for $175.
The bike will just have to sit in the garage until I get the new controller.
TallMark
Member
JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
Alcohol will remove the Sharpie marks. Looks good.
Callisto224
Member
I ride on pavement 99% of the time. In the rain once in awhile.
I have not pulled the driveshaft or even looked at the splines on the transmission end.
I use a piece of string to hold up the rear u-joint when swinging the FD up into position. I think Jim mentioned it at some point. Another tip is to spin the rear brake disc 90-180 degrees when trying to put the FD back in place and line up the splines.
I'm scheduled to have look at this 1995 R100GS later this week. It's in fair/rough shape but it runs down the road.
I will either have a nice project bike or a huge headache. Stay tuned.
Get it !!
I got a couple of stock extra seats...I replaced the fuel pump controller and took the bike for a spin around the block. Went to start it up later and nothing.
After fiddling around with it for a bit, I think that I have two issues. Sometimes I hear the fuel pump and other times don't, and sometimes it cranks and other times there is nothing and the two don't seem to be related.
If just the fuel pump controller is faulty, will the bike still crank but not start?
After fiddling around with it for a bit, I think that I have two issues. Sometimes I hear the fuel pump and other times don't, and sometimes it cranks and other times there is nothing and the two don't seem to be related.
If just the fuel pump controller is faulty, will the bike still crank but not start?
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JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
Yes, with a controller failure the bike will still crank. My guess is that it is a bad battery connection. Maybe a ground. Check both ends of the cables.
Thanks Jim, I was hoping that you'd chime in. I charged the battery and it started up just fine and I went for a ride and everything was good, or so I thought.
This is an Antigravity lithium battery.
At rest battery voltage was 13.1
Running battery voltage was 13.2
I disconnected the negative cable and the bike kept running.
Then after I shut it down and reconnected everything, it wouldn't start. No click, nothing.
I ran a jumper cable from the negative terminal to the engine block. no click, nothing.
When I plugged in my lithium charger it read that my battery was only charged to level 2 on a scale of 1-7.
Level 2 is the same level that it was before I charged it the first time. This is my first lithium battery so I'm not familiar with the characteristics.
I'm pretty sure that I needed a new fuel pump controller but now I think I need a new battery too.
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