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What did you do with your trials bike today?

Changed fork oil, greased steering head bearings, tightened loose steering stem nut, greased linkage bearings, cleaned crud from airbox to filter junction, cleaned crud that dripped from airbox, moved controls and applied teflon tape under perches

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2whlrcr said:
Falling apart already?:hide
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Just the loose steering stem nut, and I found the kick start screw was loose, too. Everything else is preventative maintenance while I wait for a new shifter and brake protector. I should do the fork oil more often, yuck. The gearbox oil lasted quite a while but the magnets picked up a bunch of crud.

New shifter (Apico) arrived and installed. I should probably have a spare shifter and spare brake pedal. I have spare levers and spare throttle.

My left grip is migrating inward despite glue and safety wire. Does anybody make lock-on trials grips? What's so different about trials grips anyway? I compared mine on my bike to a new in box Renthal MX grip set and it just seemed to be smaller handstops on the trials grips.
 
Couldn't start it. WTF? First checked spark, good. Second, checked petcock, flowing fuel. Third, checked float bowl, suspiciously clear liquid dripped from it. Didn't smell like premix at all. Drained carb, took off the bowl, and noticed water droplets everywhere. Blew it dry, put it all back together, and went for a ride. In all my years of riding I have never had water in the fuel before.

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Post a pic of your chain from about 3 feet away. Also, did someone replace the tensioner spring with the wrong one? In your pic 3 posts above, the top chain run is noticeably very loose, appears to be laying on the swingarm.
 
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Trials935 said:
Post a pic of your chain from about 3 feet away. Also, did someone replace the tensioner spring with the wrong one? In your pic 3 posts above, the top chain run is noticeably very loose, appears to be laying on the swingarm.
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The bike is likely in gear and rolled forward putting all the chain slack up top.
 
What is the proper way to check chain slack on these things with their tensioners? I understand it's to put it up on a stand, let the swingarm droop, and fit your thumb between the tensioner block and swingarm. That's what I have even though the chain appears to be loose. I tightened it by one divot of the snail cams.

On regular bikes I just sit them straight up under their own weight and check the slack under the bottom swingarm. I guess that doesn't work with a 160 pound bike with a tensioner.
 
I put mine up on a stand like you and try to keep .25-.5" of clearance between the bottom of the swingarm and top of the chain tensioner block.
 
Still a little bit of rattle while riding with this much slack. (Neutral, bash plate barely kissing stand, tire barely kissing lift.)

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I am so bummed I missed the recent Ryan Young class. I need some instruction.

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It appears you need to tighten your chain. Adjust to leave a gap about the thickness of your pointer finger (0.5-0.625") between the top of your chain tensioner block and the bottom of the swingarm. In both pics provided, the tensioner block is touching the swingarm.
 
Got the chain slack figured out.

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Went for another ride in the cold.

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Fell on this same obstacle I got stuck on the last time I rode.

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I shall name this Hindsight Rock. In hindsight, I see I should have taken a line slightly to the right, with more traction for the rear wheel off the granite, and that nice pocket for the front wheel.

Silly fall at the end of the video...

 
Looks to me more like you needed to punch that front tire into the rock, then hop up with the bike, rather than sky wheelie the front over it slamming the rear tire into the face and throwing your weight forward which caused loss of traction and down ya went. :muutt
Trail riding looked fun. I have a blast out trail riding the beta.

Do you ride/compete with a local trials club at all?
 
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