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How can I fix this?


I'm looking for advice as to the best way to fix this broken seat tab? I have no welding skills and would like to avoid stripping the bike down to its frame.


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Yeah, you really just need to have it welded back on. You don't need to to strip the bike down for that. Ride the bike to a welding shop and they can glue it back together on the spot. That fender doesn't even need to fight off. That's a 5 min job, cleaning and welding. By the time you ride home it'll be perfectly cool to dab some black paint back on
Try a few welding shops in your area and ask for an estimate...go early in the day before they get busy on the big projects.
hell, what does HF offer for welders? I'd think you could get a MIG for pretty cheap. Invaluable for jobs like these.
MIG? That's one of those Russian planes?
Flux cored MIG welder.

· Welds at a fast rate and cost less

· Produces a neat weld

· Easier to learn & can be operated adequately by amateur welders

· Welds thinner metals than stick welding

· Fuses thick metals effectively

· Suited for indoor jobs since it requires a continuous supply of shielding gas

· Welds steel, stainless steel, aluminum alloys and silicon bronze

Clamp one side and pull the trigger. Won't be the best welds, but perfect for smaller stuff. you can always add on later.
I don't know how long it will last, but a buddy ordered a Chinese Tig to his door for like $200. Of course you've got to do a bottle/regulator on top of that, but a Tig fuse weld would be perfect in this situation.

I don't know what the Harbor Freight equivalent would be to rightsideup in England, or if there is any, but there are inexpensive welders to pick up. The thing with cheap welders + being a beginner is not knowing if the machine is fighting you or if it's you.
Thin stuff welds fine with any flux core machine. Could be a $500 lincoln or an $80 amazon or harbor crap machine. The splatter is more of an issue without gas shielding. The frame to bracket joint is failure prone. Bad design and a good shop might have a very simple fix to eliminate the stress point so it doesnt break again.

The p clamp idea was great...not for looks or original design. The clamp would distribute the load. Fab vs welding!
Do you have any kind of metal working ability?

I think to do it without welding, you'll have to replace it with something different:
My first thought was a T shaped piece, upside down, bolted through the rear hoop, and then hammered over top to reach the knob at the back of the seat.
Now that I've thought a little more, if you don't want to permanently modify the rear hoop by drilling holes as mentioned above, you could likely bend a Z shaped piece that bolts on to the two fender mounting bolts, comes up inside the hoop and then flattens out to reach the knob.
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