Scottoiler or other brands?

[Shinyribs]

Thinking about giving an auto oiler a try. Scottoiler pops to mind naturally, but I'm curious what y'all have used and liked.

Prefer something simple without electronics, but I'm not opposed to it if the price is right and it's reliable.

Talk to me like I know nothing, because I know nothing!

 

[Danno]

The wifes 1989 883 was a challenge. New chain and sprockets squeaking 40 miles later. A good day maybe over a hundred miles. I built a mini kickstand jack for chain lube maintenance. I always said I would install an oiler. Tuning the carb helped but not much.

 

[gpounce]

I've made my own, electrics with a pump, so there is a positive pressure feed dosing at an interval proportional to the bike's speed. I've not tried the vacuum related systems, but that sort of system will surely be sensitive to how the system is installed; ie might have application problems related to oil viscosity and/or temperature.

The install docs I've seen make a big deal about applying oil to the rear sprocket, my systems apply to the top of the chain close to the front sprocket to protect the plumbing. The oil will tend to make a bit of a mess over time on the bike around the chain, though if the dosing amount is small then things aren't very wet with oil but enough sticks around for dirt to accumulate.

The oil tends to keep the chain washed clean of dirt- when I wrecked my Bandit the chain had something like 30k miles on it and not a bit of stretch.

 

[Danno]

There was a thread somewhere that was slick. Two ziptie pointed ends directed oil to each side of the roller and side plate pivot point right before engaging the sprocket.

We get lazy with the mud bikes. We jack up the rear and spray both sides of the sprocket while using the engine to spin the wheel.

 

[Shinyribs]

I've made my own, electrics with a pump, so there is a positive pressure feed dosing at an interval proportional to the bike's speed. I've not tried the vacuum related systems, but that sort of system will surely be sensitive to how the system is installed; ie might have application problems related to oil viscosity and/or temperature.

The install docs I've seen make a big deal about applying oil to the rear sprocket, my systems apply to the top of the chain close to the front sprocket to protect the plumbing. The oil will tend to make a bit of a mess over time on the bike around the chain, though if the dosing amount is small then things aren't very wet with oil but enough sticks around for dirt to accumulate.

The oil tends to keep the chain washed clean of dirt- when I wrecked my Bandit the chain had something like 30k miles on it and not a bit of stretch.

Aiming for the front sprocket is my preference if it's functional. Would be able to keep all the plumbing tidy and tucked away next to the engine rather than a mess of tentacles running all over the swingarm. 😬

My understanding of the vacuum system is the vacuum portion is a simple on/off mechanism ( like a vacuum petcock), otherwise it's just gravity fed.

I don't think most people (not you) understand that chain "stretch" isn't really a thing that happens. If a chain becomes loose it's because the pins are worn. Whenever I read about someone adjusting their chain "every month!" ...you just know the sprockets are deformed to death. 30k on a chain is very good! I'm very particular about cleaning chains and normally get 25-30k miles out of a chain. I never adjust a chain beyond initial setup and have never seen a sprocket wear out on a street bike. Scrubbing chains twice or more a month is becoming annoying. I've actually never worn a chain out. Even at 25-30k miles the chains are still good, but all the scrubbing has taken it's toll on the rings and the seals start falling out. As I struggle to get more than 2k miles out of a sport touring tire, I don't think I'm particularly easy on chains. They're tough as hell if kept clean.

 

[Shinyribs]

There was a thread somewhere that was slick. Two ziptie pointed ends directed oil to each side of the roller and side plate pivot point right before engaging the sprocket.

We get lazy with the mud bikes. We jack up the rear and spray both sides of the sprocket while using the engine to spin the wheel.

Yeah, the dirt bikes don't get the chain maintenance the street bikes do. I finally gave up that battle. Slosh more lube on and just toss em when they start getting loose. It's a losing battle.

 

[Danno]

Well the sprockets wear faster than the chain sometimes. I have good luck with replacing the countershaft sprocket the moment it deforms. Man..that oiler is slick. The sportster was impossible because the torque hits squeesed any oil out of the roller. But it was audible not feel. Another point missed is never run an even ratio such as 15/45. That requires indexing the chain every once in awhile. And the front wheel better be balanced. Or it hops. Most riders just replace. But a kink on a trip can suck. There is always a oil qt container in trash cans at gas stations with an ounce or two of oil still left. A bad kink can be washed down every 50 miles with wd40 till destination. Alot of trouble when oilers have been around forever.

 

[gpounce]

With the chain oiler in play I can basically quit cleaning the chain- I found I could put a few hundred miles on it, then an oil rinse and drip-dry would come off with oil only a bit of dirt, and no problem riding in the rain. With a 500ml or so reservoir I could get about a month or so of regular summer riding or a few weeks of big miles on a jaunt. My 1st rev lasted nearly 10 years and two bikes, needing some slight mods for the R6.

With a pumped or vacuum actuated system siphoning can be a problem, particularly if you want to make a minimum dose. A gravity system will have problems with really low flow rates, and a pumped system can siphon out a tank even if the pump doesn't run- a foot or so of drop is enough to drain oil thru the pump (either impeller or diaphragm). In the past I ran a loop up above the reservoir with a tee in it open to the air to act as a vacuum break; that way the pump could put a few seconds of oil into the line, then stop and the oil trickles down the tube and drips onto the chain.

I just installed a rev2 of my usual design on the gsxs. This one uses a spring ball check valve down at the dispenser which cracks at 1psi, the pump is good to 10psi, so the checkvalve prevents siphoning; no extra loop or tee up in the tail. We'll see how it works out.. I can always fall back to a tee. As a commercial product the design would be absurdly expensive and troublesome to fit (needing a tap off the bike's speed sensor)- so I think is only viable as a nerd DIY effort.

Being able to select a dose is helpful, my general rule is to see no more than 2 drips on the pavement after a 30 min ride - adjustment is just changing a potentiometer setting and operation is stable even with different weight oil- I tend buy the cheapest 5w available, 10w is fine too. I just filled the reservoir with the last of an old bottle of fork oil...

 

[TonyKZ1]

I use an old Scottoiler vacuum actuated auto-oiler system. It works good, but the electronic version with a pump would be better as the oil flow rate would be more controllable regardless of the temperature. As the temperature effects the oil (I use Automatic Transmission Fluid) thickness which effects how much oil is delivered to the rear sprocket. I usually leave it at a mid setting, around 2 drops per minute, and don't worry about it unless it's really cold, then I'll readjust it to increase the oil flow or it's hot then I'll readjust it again to decrease the oil flow amounts, trying to keep it at the 2 drops per minute. It's worked good for me over the years as now I'm changing the sprockets and chain on my bike after 62,185 miles and 59 months have passed since last service. I just checked my mileage tracker page to make sure that was correct. I installed this D.I.D. X-ring chain and sprockets 3/17/18 at 68,356 miles and I'm now at 130,541 miles. Your mileage may vary...

 

[Shinyribs]

I use an old Scottoiler vacuum actuated auto-oiler system. It works good, but the electronic version with a pump would be better as the oil flow rate would be more controllable regardless of the temperature. As the temperature effects the oil (I use Automatic Transmission Fluid) thickness which effects how much oil is delivered to the rear sprocket. I usually leave it at a mid setting, around 2 drops per minute, and don't worry about it unless it's really cold, then I'll readjust it to increase the oil flow or it's hot then I'll readjust it again to decrease the oil flow amounts, trying to keep it at the 2 drops per minute. It's worked good for me over the years as now I'm changing the sprockets and chain on my bike after 62,185 miles and 59 months have passed since last service. I just checked my mileage tracker page to make sure that was correct. I installed this D.I.D. X-ring chain and sprockets 3/17/18 at 68,356 miles and I'm now at 130,541 miles. Your mileage may vary...

Thanks for that input!

I just read least night where Scott suggests to sin for one drop per minute. You don't have excessive fling at 2 drops per minute?

I like the idea of ATF ( the fluid, not the organization 😁) and your experience pretty much proves the system seals are compatible with it. Does the ATF clean off the bike easily with soap or does it need solvent? Or is the system not messy enough that it's just not a concern?

I'm partial to the idea and price of the vacuum system.. Which electric system are you using? E or X?

 

[TonyKZ1]

Yeah, one drop might be better, less oil for sure. I had read that anywhere from 1-2 drops per minute was good, so I adjust for somewhere in that range. I do get some fling off and the bike gets dirty, but the chain (o/x-rings) is lubed. It all washes off with either soap and water or the rare occasion when I take it to a car wash. I've never used the E or X electronic versions, just read about them when they came out.

 

[Yarz]

I've got a Scottoiler (vacuum actuated version) on my SV. I wanted it because I'm terrible at taking the time to clean and lube chains.

I put the reservoir under the rear seat and ran the tube down the subframe and then down the swingarm so it doesn't stick out too bad if you're worried about the looks.

I also use mainly ATF, but in the heat of the summer I will occasionally mix in some bar and chain lube, thinking that it will be stickier and stay on the chain a bit longer.

I don't remember exactly where I set the flow, but it is probably a bit heavy because I do get some build up in the chain guard/etc.

 

[Shinyribs]

Yeah, one drop might be better, less oil for sure. I had read that anywhere from 1-2 drops per minute was good, so I adjust for somewhere in that range. I do get some fling off and the bike gets dirty, but the chain (o/x-rings) is lubed. It all washes off with either soap and water or the rare occasion when I take it to a car wash. I've never used the E or X electronic versions, just read about them when they came out.

Ah, I misread your first post. I thought you said you preferred the electric system.

I live on a gravel road and like to keep my bike clean. Regular washings are a thing anyway, just tired of scrubbing chains with solvents.

 

[Danno]

Maybe solvent and oil. Or thin oil/atf. Fine dust is a pain. Try home brew. One bike I used a teflon spray. Cleanest and slickest chain. But doesnt last long because it is all solvent. I would be tempted with paraffin, teflon and graphite in a 90% solvent for gravel. If I get this right for dirt removal and a clean chain. Also easy clean up. Ha good luck...modded wd40 might be close. Or mooded or plain marvels. Both have crazy cleaning abilities. Especially marvels.

 

[Camhead64]

I had a scott oiler on my Triumph Trophy years ago. Vacuum operated, the reservoir was rectangular and mounted behind the license plate, I don't see where they offer that type any longer, too bad as it made for a very clean install. Worked exceptionally well, I got about 45k out of my chains with that setup. I don't see the need for electric's really, the vacuum system works fine.

 

[Forseti]

I have a camelion electric oiler. Prefer it over the Scott. Set the amount and it consistently drops a set amount of oil. It claims to add extra if off road... I question that. It allows doubling the dispensing at a push of the button while riding. It is a smaller unit to place as well.

 

[Shinyribs]

I have a camelion electric oiler. Prefer it over the Scott. Set the amount and it consistently drops a set amount of oil. It claims to add extra if off road... I question that. It allows doubling the dispensing at a push of the button while riding. It is a smaller unit to place as well.

I haven't found those in my searches. Thanks for the heads up. I really like the formable hose they use. That's a huge plus

 

[Yarz]

I took a few quick pictures of my setup. Here's the reservoir tucked in under the passenger seat:

And the hose routing, (just above and behind the foot peg):

And where it finally gets to the rear sprocket:

 

[Shinyribs]

It's settled. I'm officially middle-aged now.

Vacuum operation appealed to me the most. Really wish it came with a hose like the Camelion that Forseti mentioned, but my swingarm has a lot of open cavities to hide stuff. Let's see how this goes.

 

[gpounce]

I put I think the final draft version of the nozzle on yesterday;



I'll refine the hose clamp situation after shaking it down for a while. Definitely a solid mount and easy enough to tweak the nozzle so drips are about equal on both sides of the chain. About 1/4" clearance between the tips of the nozzles and the chain at maximum whip, but arranged in this way the chain will push it up out of the way if there is interaction.