Bitingdog
Does your Dog bite?
Uncle Taco at his finest
I appreciate the advice. I'm not sure I'll be selling the 520 anytime soon. The power of that thing makes everyone giggle that rides it. But if I find myself riding the 300 more I don't think I'll be surprised. I was really impressed with it in the first few minutes. The biggest issue with the RFS is trying to keep it cool in the woods. I find myself having to cut trails short so I can make a cool down lap out in an open field. For whatever reason, the 300 just doesn't seem to make the same amount of heat.Stay in touch, their jetting needs didn't change much from year to year.
That NECJ needle is goldilocks, suggest you get a 38 and 40 pilot, and mains from 165-172. We'll get it sorted.
I always figured you'd like a 300 two-stroke, because it's so torquey. Like a 525 RFS without the weight
Verify it, but without question that jetting you had was way too lean.
Acquired a little bag of gold, but the needle had to be ordered in. Most likely will be getting rained out of work tomorrow and I've been researching everything about the powervalve. Probably wise to verify everything in regards to the powervalve is properly adjusted before I chase my tail on jetting.
Provided it's in spec on the power valve itself, that's more of a tuning/personal preference thing. Mine was protruding about 1.5mm when brand new, but it's now flush. Verify Z dimension, operation. Then it's trial and error ride, adjust, ride, adjust. Just like suspension clickers.Yeah, I trust your advice on the jetting. That's not really what I meant about chasing my tail. I'm just thinking that with my luck I'd be playing with the carb when ultimately the problem lies elsewhere. 😁
I noticed the preload screw for the powervalve spring protrudes from the case while others I've seen are recessed. It's likely to be out of whack.
That does make sense.Provided it's in spec on the power valve itself, that's more of a tuning/personal preference thing. Mine was protruding about 1.5mm when brand new, but it's now flush. Verify Z dimension, operation. Then it's trial and error ride, adjust, ride, adjust. Just like suspension clickers.
I believe that each 360° rotation of the PV dolly screw changes the start of the powervalve operation by 250 rpm (or thereabouts) so it's not a night and day thing. Does that make sense?
Should have some, but nothing crazyThat does make sense.
Everything checked out ok. Z dimension, exhaust flap/power valve timing, float height.
Only thing is everything I've seen says to expect the dolly screw to have a lot of pressure on it when your turn it, and mine does not. Judging by the size of the spring we're compressing I don't see why it would require a lot of pressure.
Mine turns with less tension than the shock compression clicker, for a point of reference. I don't think there's nothing wrong there.Should have some, but nothing crazy
If you take off the power valve cover, you can see it affect the push rod and power valve actuator when you adjust the dolly screw. That way you'll know everything is good. One man's hard is another man's easy. If that makes sense.Snuck out for a quick test between rain showers. 38 pilot, 168 main. Air screw seemed happy at only 1 turn out. Preexisting needle. Much better!
The midrange right before the power valve opens is still a little rough, but nothing as choppy and sputtery as before. Definitely on the right path 👍
Thanks again for the advice!
Mine turns with less tension than the shock compression clicker, for a point of reference. I don't think there's nothing wrong there.
Don't believe rumors!If you take off the power valve cover, you can see it affect the push rod and power valve actuator when you adjust the dolly screw. That way you'll know everything is good. One man's hard is another man's easy. If that makes sense.
Rumor has it that you're stronger than most 💪
By the way, where is Greg? He can't still be on honeymoon for goodness sakes!