Tractors - Subs/Compact/Utility

[MVI]

Looking into a Compact All wheel Drive Tractor -

• Pro's, Con's
• Tips & Tricks
• Attachments
  

 

[Danno]

Kubota pck deal. Around here there is kyoto and the blue brand. Tractor, loader, backhoe and underbelly deck plus trailer. My old coworker got the kubota pck minus trailer. Then bought a carmate carhauler from one of our customers.

 

[Oldtrix]

What will be its primary use? That will drive the choices.

 

[MVI]

Light Dirt moving ( bucket not backhoe) , post hole attachment, log splitter attachment, mowing. Perhaps a shredder..

I am sure more uses will emerge later

 

[Oldtrix]

With a lot of FEL use, I would recommend a hydro drive. It is much handier than the shuttle drivetrain for that type of work. 4WD you have already decided- Needed when loading up the bucket, but would recommend a rear weight box along with filled tires, too. The little Kubota BX series units are really quite capable, but if you're tending much more than a few acres I would recommend at least an L series type tractor. If you're brush hogging, look at the HP requirements for the mower you plan on using. Plan on using a backhoe? an open station unit might be more desirable than a cab unit in that case, although it was one of my must-haves for cold VT winters. (AC in the summer doesn't suck, either)

I'm not a Kubota fanboy, just using the series for size reference. I ended up buying a used Mahindra for my 28 acres of woods and meadows, a 2655 shuttle, as most of my work is mowing, with tree work/logging second. I tow a separate splitter behind it, as I already had the splitter, plus it keeps the hours down on the tractor motor when splitting wood. It was more or less in the right ballpark in HP , included attachments and price when I was looking, so it made sense. I tow a 72 in hog, which requires 45 HP, so the 55HP tractor made sense for me.

I would personally look for something with no less than 25HP. I'm not sure how big your jobs will be, but no one ever complains about having too much tractor. Smaller units will get the job done, just in a longer amount of time. Of course the newer units over 25HP now have emissions crap in them, so there's that tradeoff, too. Used units without smog gear have become slightly more desirable as a result.

TYM, Kioti and Mahindra all have some common DNA I believe. New Hollands are also fairly common and easy to parts source when needed. Branson is also out there and boast minimal electronics and emissions gear for simplicity.

Sometimes, it comes down to what's at the nearest dealership. There are countless threads on tractorbynet.com on which tractor to buy, almost worse than an oil thread.

Just my ramblings- I doubt I've been much help

 

[Bill_M]

I really love my John Deere 1025R TLB. I've had it for about 4 years now, and don't know how I got along so many years without one. For implements, I have the following (all 3-pt hitch implements):

• CountyLine 5' brush cutter
• CountyLine post hole digger w/9" auger
• Mighty Mac Hammermill Shredder Chipper

Plus the backhoe that came with the tractor.

The backhoe has seen the least use of all the implements, and spends a lot of time just sitting on a dolly in the garage. I have used it a few times to dig a trench or ditch, and have used it to pull myself out of the mud a few times when I managed to get the tractor stuck. It is good for digging up small stumps. And it is very useful as counterweight when doing heavy lifting with the front end loader. I have gotten very good at putting it on and taking it off the tractor - much faster than hooking up any of the PTO driven implements. I can take it off in about 2 minutes, and put it back on in about 5 minutes. Having a dolly for it is hugely helpful. Comparing that to the 3-pt implements, it takes me more like 20-30 minutes to switch those out.

No regrets - I bought my tractor as a brand new leftover 2017 model in early 2019, with full warranty, and got such a good deal on it that basically the backhoe was free. Paid $18K for it ($20.5K with beet juice filled tires, delivery to my house and 9.5% sales tax), and could probably sell it today for what I paid for it.

 

[Shinyribs]

We've got a New Holland TC30. Bought it new in 1998. Haven't done a single solitary thing to it. The front tires have dry rotted to the point where they don't hold air, but they're about worn slick anyway. Don't know what the current version of a TC30 would be, but I wouldn't want anything smaller unless you absolutely need to fit in small places and/or haul it on a smallish trailer.

The smaller they are the narrower they get and the easier they want to tip. The rear tires get real light with a full scoop of dry dirt on any tractor though. The way the setup the lifting arms just don't keep the COG down like an actual loader does. Even my buddy's 100hp MF gets light in the ass with a full bucket. Keeping a bushhog or something heavy on the back is almost necessary if you are using the bucket a lot away from flat ground.

For reference, using the TC30 to pull a 7.3 IDI out of a pickup pretty much maxed out the lifting height and weight capacity of that tractor. Seems like a pretty simple ask of something with a front end loader, but it's easy to forget just how light small tractors actually are. We were stacking cinder blocks on the bushhog for that one 😁

I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, though. It takes exactly 5 gallons of fuel when the needle hits low, so it's easy to just dump a jug of fuel in without having to worry about overflowing. Sounds dumb, but when you're hot and tired it's a pain trying to stretch over the lifting arms with a heavy fuel jug and a funnel. It's not being able to just plop it on the hood and wait for it to drain. It's got more power than the chassis can use and it's still damn easy on fuel. It'll run the bushhog all day for several days on a 5 gallon tank of fuel. Fires up instantly in the cold as well. Glow plugs, or whatever it has, works flawlessly. If you can find a clean used one I'd say you'd be getting a helluva machine ( with zero electronics) and save a ton over buying new.

 

[MVI]

I didn't think I needed a backhoe, but now knowing I'd need a ballast box or other anyway, Backhoe is on the short list again for attachments. seems like a handy counter weight, plus if I can get a thumb for it to move logs, bonus.

Appreciate all the insights.

Keep 'em coming

 

[skibum69]

I was considering one of these. Very interesting as they have push and pull attachments. I was looking for a small footprint.

https://www.bcsamerica.com/product/model-852

 

[MVI]

While that tiller is a useful bit of kit, it just cant do what a Tractor with a bucket/backhoe can.

FYI - if you are looking for small and capable machines, Toro makes all kinds of DIngos, wide, narrow, etc

[EDIT] A buddy of mine started a Small Landscaping business with his DINGO and all kinds of attachments, what a workhorse

 

[MVI]

We've got a New Holland TC30. Bought it new in 1998. Haven't done a single solitary thing to it. The front tires have dry rotted to the point where they don't hold air, but they're about worn slick anyway. Don't know what the current version of a TC30 would be, but I wouldn't want anything smaller unless you absolutely need to fit in small places and/or haul it on a smallish trailer.

The smaller they are the narrower they get and the easier they want to tip. The rear tires get real light with a full scoop of dry dirt on any tractor though. The way the setup the lifting arms just don't keep the COG down like an actual loader does. Even my buddy's 100hp MF gets light in the ass with a full bucket. Keeping a bushhog or something heavy on the back is almost necessary if you are using the bucket a lot away from flat ground.

For reference, using the TC30 to pull a 7.3 IDI out of a pickup pretty much maxed out the lifting height and weight capacity of that tractor. Seems like a pretty simple ask of something with a front end loader, but it's easy to forget just how light small tractors actually are. We were stacking cinder blocks on the bushhog for that one 😁

I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, though. It takes exactly 5 gallons of fuel when the needle hits low, so it's easy to just dump a jug of fuel in without having to worry about overflowing. Sounds dumb, but when you're hot and tired it's a pain trying to stretch over the lifting arms with a heavy fuel jug and a funnel. It's not being able to just plop it on the hood and wait for it to drain. It's got more power than the chassis can use and it's still damn easy on fuel. It'll run the bushhog all day for several days on a 5 gallon tank of fuel. Fires up instantly in the cold as well. Glow plugs, or whatever it has, works flawlessly. If you can find a clean used one I'd say you'd be getting a helluva machine ( with zero electronics) and save a ton over buying new.

We have a New Holland dealer nearby , I'll check them out.. in addition to Deere, Kubota, and Branson

 

[MVI]

Some nice package deals on Branson Tractors.

is 2200 # bucket lifting weight at full height about right ?

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[Oldtrix]

Keep in mind, post hole diggers on a 3-pt don't have any down force capability. 3Pt hitches have lot of lift, but no down pressure. If you have rocky soil, you may want to find a way to add weight to the top of the attachment. Skid steers can exert downforce, obviously, but I find Skids to be overall more expensive, units and attachments, than typical tractors/ag attachments.

Backhoes make nice rear ballast. My Neighbor across the street has a Kubota B series, and he uses the hoe for just that when lugging things around with the FEL.

You may also want to look into a 3rd function/grapple for the front end in lieu of a thumb on the hoe. I have a lot of brush and downed trees to clear, so that's my next acquisition. Much easier to scoop up and hold with the grapple. I should have bonfire material for the next few years, if I can get to it and haul it out of the woods.

After mowing last year, as well as having clearance issues with the chains last winter, I put 2" spacers on my rear wheels to gain a bit more stability. I can't say I notice anything (aside from the chains not slapping the cab mount) in terms of tip over stability, but it's nice knowing I have a bit more margin. Some of the slopes I mow are 10-12% grades, which I mow straight up/down, however you have to turn somewhere, or just zigzag backwards/forwards across the hill. I can manage the turns now.

Bucket capacity is usually stated as breakout weight at the pins, but you have to pay attention to how they spec it across brands. I'd be very cautious lifting that much weight to full height in one of these little tractors.

 

[woods]

Largest you can afford.

Older and larger is better than newer and smaller.

SSQA is a must.

 

[MVI]

My assumption is the std FEL that comes with a tractor package is not SSQA, correct ?

IOW, if a SSQA bucket is needed, then need to work that into any deal.?.

 

[woods]

My assumption is the std FEL that comes with a tractor package is not SSQA, correct ?

IOW, if a SSQA bucket is needed, then need to work that into any deal.?.

Mine's a Casco(?) brand. way way old, and out of business I think in the early 2000s.

that pic there looks to be a SSQA setup though, yes. Someone smarter than I will have to confirm.

 

[Bill_M]

We've got a New Holland TC30. Bought it new in 1998. Haven't done a single solitary thing to it. The front tires have dry rotted to the point where they don't hold air, but they're about worn slick anyway. Don't know what the current version of a TC30 would be, but I wouldn't want anything smaller unless you absolutely need to fit in small places and/or haul it on a smallish trailer.

The smaller they are the narrower they get and the easier they want to tip. The rear tires get real light with a full scoop of dry dirt on any tractor though. The way the setup the lifting arms just don't keep the COG down like an actual loader does. Even my buddy's 100hp MF gets light in the ass with a full bucket. Keeping a bushhog or something heavy on the back is almost necessary if you are using the bucket a lot away from flat ground.

For reference, using the TC30 to pull a 7.3 IDI out of a pickup pretty much maxed out the lifting height and weight capacity of that tractor. Seems like a pretty simple ask of something with a front end loader, but it's easy to forget just how light small tractors actually are. We were stacking cinder blocks on the bushhog for that one 😁

I'd buy it again in a heartbeat, though. It takes exactly 5 gallons of fuel when the needle hits low, so it's easy to just dump a jug of fuel in without having to worry about overflowing. Sounds dumb, but when you're hot and tired it's a pain trying to stretch over the lifting arms with a heavy fuel jug and a funnel. It's not being able to just plop it on the hood and wait for it to drain. It's got more power than the chassis can use and it's still damn easy on fuel. It'll run the bushhog all day for several days on a 5 gallon tank of fuel. Fires up instantly in the cold as well. Glow plugs, or whatever it has, works flawlessly. If you can find a clean used one I'd say you'd be getting a helluva machine ( with zero electronics) and save a ton over buying new.

That sounds a lot like my son's tractor. I think his is somewhere around a 2005-2008 model though. He bought it used about 8 years ago. His is a compact, not a sub-compact, so a fair bit bigger than my JD. It is a really nice tractor.

 

[Bill_M]

Keep in mind, post hole diggers on a 3-pt don't have any down force capability. 3Pt hitches have lot of lift, but no down pressure. If you have rocky soil, you may want to find a way to add weight to the top of the attachment. Skid steers can exert downforce, obviously, but I find Skids to be overall more expensive, units and attachments, than typical tractors/ag attachments.

Backhoes make nice rear ballast. My Neighbor across the street has a Kubota B series, and he uses the hoe for just that when lugging things around with the FEL.

You may also want to look into a 3rd function/grapple for the front end in lieu of a thumb on the hoe. I have a lot of brush and downed trees to clear, so that's my next acquisition. Much easier to scoop up and hold with the grapple. I should have bonfire material for the next few years, if I can get to it and haul it out of the woods.

After mowing last year, as well as having clearance issues with the chains last winter, I put 2" spacers on my rear wheels to gain a bit more stability. I can't say I notice anything (aside from the chains not slapping the cab mount) in terms of tip over stability, but it's nice knowing I have a bit more margin. Some of the slopes I mow are 10-12% grades, which I mow straight up/down, however you have to turn somewhere, or just zigzag backwards/forwards across the hill. I can manage the turns now.

Bucket capacity is usually stated as breakout weight at the pins, but you have to pay attention to how they spec it across brands. I'd be very cautious lifting that much weight to full height in one of these little tractors.

I haven't found a lack of down pressure to be an issue with my post hole digger. I think I paid around $700 for it, after adding an auger bit. That is equal to about 3 rentals...

Used it last summer to build a fence, dug 25 post holes with it, absolutely no issues. I found it much easier to use than the two man rental ones from Home Depot, and owning it allowed my to take my time, building the fence over a couple of months, digging holes as I went, rather than all at once.

My son borrowed it and used it on his tractor to dig holes for a lean-to extension on his pole barn. Again, no issues.

 

[Bill_M]

Mine's a Casco(?) brand. way way old, and out of business I think in the early 2000s.

that pic there looks to be a SSQA setup though, yes. Someone smarter than I will have to confirm.

My assumption is the std FEL that comes with a tractor package is not SSQA, correct ?

IOW, if a SSQA bucket is needed, then need to work that into any deal.?.

John Deere has their own proprietary quick attach system (JDQA), but you can get an adapter plate that converts JDQA to SSQA. The downside is the weight of that adapter reduces your lifting capacity.

 

[MVI]

If JD has the same similar QA accessories (forks, etc) that fit the JDQA, that should be fine too.


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My BIL has several big articulating JD tractors on the family farm up North, and my other BIL is JD tractor/combine Mechanic.



Come to think of it I better ask my wife if she bleeds green, before I do too much research on Blue, Red or Orange Tractors