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Braking myths.

I just rode back to the lot to measure the width of the parking spots. 9’.

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When I was going through the video I actually had one stop using from and rear brakes within 6 spots.

Here’s what the actual measurements wind up being in feet:
54
72
108
 
Leaving aside higher technology for a moment and going back to basics, brake pads and linings.
Remember not all brake friction material is created equal, and dependent what you are doing it could be the typical parts store oem spec pads are either not up to true OEM performance or down to what you are doing you need a swap for a higher performance pad.
Its not just initial bite its about maintaining feel too, and it could be your typical carbon factory pads are getting a bit hot with what you are doing and robing you of both feel and possibly performance too.
Its all trial and error you need to look at where your stock pads are letting you down and then if say you are on a typical dry weather backroad run getting a bit of wooliness through the leavers 10 miles in a simple swap to a lower end sauntered pad might restore some of that efficiency feel and safety. You dont have to be pushing high speeds to need such an upgrade lots of heavy braking brake dragging etc in low speed stunts or even city trafic courier work will heat up the brakes to such an extent a swap from stock could restore efficiency.
The softer sauntered brake linings wont generally loose out on stone cold bite and feel but hold out longer when needed.
Look into what you got installed and what you are doing and if you are loosing out anywhere a swap could be a braking advantage for your application.
 
There is ao much oil on the rodes . Brakes get contaminated and glazed instantly. Another reason I like drum brakes. I have spun the front wheel and surfaced the disc. Best with a 90° die grinder and the little sanding discs. But I can both sides of the disc with a cutoff wheel in a angle grinder. Night and day difference. Thats why abs doesnt mean much to me. I have done 1000s of trailer brake jobs. Glazed parts will require more pressure and lock up from lack of of friction modulation.
 
I think I found one of the best riders in controlled chaos....Sarah Lezito kinda funny when she chases her bike and jumps on it like a wild horse.
 
I think I found one of the best riders in controlled chaos....Sarah Lezito kinda funny when she chases her bike and jumps on it like a wild horse.
She's amazing. And always laughing, giggling and cheerful. She's a gem in a gravel parking lot of other "content creators".
 
I think I found one of the best riders in controlled chaos....Sarah Lezito kinda funny when she chases her bike and jumps on it like a wild horse.
True story its mid 1990s, we were gathering the clans at a mates farm in North Yorkshire about 20 there.
On the car park in front of his building we were playing , wheelies doughnuts stopples etc wile Having beer and barbecue on the grass paddock.
Mate Tommy from Gateshead was wheelieing a old Z750 twin shock from about 1985 and he stepped off the bike and started spinning it round and round milk floating it holding the twist grip and the bike spinning around him in a cloud of smoke, think he was after the tyre banging off, but the bike got faster and faster got a bit out of shape he must have yanked it towards him in that clud of smoke and the bike sudenly launches itself out the cloud and shot off up the yard slowing down as it went and another mate chases it and just stopped it falling over. tomy steps out of the cloud of smoke holding the tomasseli twist grip in his hand. the two screws must have been a bit loose it pulled off ripped the cabe out and made a bid for its freedom:lol2
 
True story its mid 1990s, we were gathering the clans at a mates farm in North Yorkshire about 20 there.
On the car park in front of his building we were playing , wheelies doughnuts stopples etc wile Having beer and barbecue on the grass paddock.
Mate Tommy from Gateshead was wheelieing a old Z750 twin shock from about 1985 and he stepped off the bike and started spinning it round and round milk floating it holding the twist grip and the bike spinning around him in a cloud of smoke, think he was after the tyre banging off, but the bike got faster and faster got a bit out of shape he must have yanked it towards him in that clud of smoke and the bike sudenly launches itself out the cloud and shot off up the yard slowing down as it went and another mate chases it and just stopped it falling over. tomy steps out of the cloud of smoke holding the tomasseli twist grip in his hand. the two screws must have been a bit loose it pulled off ripped the cabe out and made a bid for its freedom:lol2
Same kind thing happen to me in the snow. Bike got faster every spin. I eventually let go.
 
Leaving aside higher technology for a moment and going back to basics, brake pads and linings.
Remember not all brake friction material is created equal, and dependent what you are doing it could be the typical parts store oem spec pads are either not up to true OEM performance or down to what you are doing you need a swap for a higher performance pad.
Its not just initial bite its about maintaining feel too, and it could be your typical carbon factory pads are getting a bit hot with what you are doing and robing you of both feel and possibly performance too.
Its all trial and error you need to look at where your stock pads are letting you down and then if say you are on a typical dry weather backroad run getting a bit of wooliness through the leavers 10 miles in a simple swap to a lower end sauntered pad might restore some of that efficiency feel and safety. You dont have to be pushing high speeds to need such an upgrade lots of heavy braking brake dragging etc in low speed stunts or even city trafic courier work will heat up the brakes to such an extent a swap from stock could restore efficiency.
The softer sauntered brake linings wont generally loose out on stone cold bite and feel but hold out longer when needed.
Look into what you got installed and what you are doing and if you are loosing out anywhere a swap could be a braking advantage for your application.
Sound advice for sure! Don't forget good fluid too.
 
True story its mid 1990s, we were gathering the clans at a mates farm in North Yorkshire about 20 there.
On the car park in front of his building we were playing , wheelies doughnuts stopples etc wile Having beer and barbecue on the grass paddock.
Mate Tommy from Gateshead was wheelieing a old Z750 twin shock from about 1985 and he stepped off the bike and started spinning it round and round milk floating it holding the twist grip and the bike spinning around him in a cloud of smoke, think he was after the tyre banging off, but the bike got faster and faster got a bit out of shape he must have yanked it towards him in that clud of smoke and the bike sudenly launches itself out the cloud and shot off up the yard slowing down as it went and another mate chases it and just stopped it falling over. tomy steps out of the cloud of smoke holding the tomasseli twist grip in his hand. the two screws must have been a bit loose it pulled off ripped the cabe out and made a bid for its freedom:lol2
It's funny to read that story so I can only imagine how funny that must've been to watch in person. :lol2
 
The canyon racers cleanened out their calipers every year..suppoedly the quad seal retracts the piston not to drag and glaze. But the situation explains preloading brakes at fast food and grocery lot exits. Nano seconds! If an abs would preload according to gps location vs insurance and traffic accidents claims...I might be sold. Dam grocery store in akron on a 35mph rode was 15-25mph on a bike. Abs doesnt spot this crap. Like low blood sugar and a 300hp suv pulling into burgerking on a short lunch brake.

Motorcycles really dont need brakes in ideal conditions...espicially street bikes smelling the roses.
 
It's funny to read that story so I can only imagine how funny that must've been to watch in person. :lol2
I think the Old Z750 was a high mileage beater iron he had bought cheap with a clunky gearshift IIRC. It was the ideal opportunity to mercilessly abuse it in the pursuit of mindless entertainment from that Kawasaki before it was broken for parts, and the bike provided plenty of that in bucket loads. :lol2
 
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I think the Old Z750 was a high mileage beater iron he had bought cheap with a clunky gearshift IIRC. It was the ideal opportunity to mercilessly abuse it in the pursuit of mindless entertainment from that Kawasaki before it was broken for parts, and the bike provided plenty of that in bucket loads. :lol2
That's awesome. While I haven't done that with a bike I have had a few beater cars that were cheap enough to not care much about and it does offer a whole new level of fun.:D
 
Without wishing to derail this thread much more and yet stay on topic at the same time.
Once you start to move away from a standard bike or truck etc. you start to open a whole new avenue of improvements modification and a real potential revenue source as an aside to all this.
Fork swaps which may or may not involve the trees bearings etc can provide bigger better brakes at little cost or work. The Street fighter concept in its raw form is a stripped naked sportsbike with clamps and renthals etc, the plastucs and other associated unwanted parts can be sold if in good condition or the fact if broken you save con replacement costs not replacing them anyway, its a winner.
Another aspect to factor in is you can use this principle on any type of motorcycle Bobber from cruiser cafe racer from whatever you chose ETc. Its the flexibility and broad options the minimalist non standard type of bike offers you it can save/make money and enhance performance doing so and creating what you want what you want in the process.
 
I bet my dl1000 would wheely easier as a thin strom build. With the gas tank relocated to the subframe like a nc700x. And the offroad ride should be improved with more weight on the back tire.
 
Leaving aside higher technology for a moment and going back to basics, brake pads and linings.
Remember not all brake friction material is created equal, and dependent what you are doing it could be the typical parts store oem spec pads are either not up to true OEM performance or down to what you are doing you need a swap for a higher performance pad.
Its not just initial bite its about maintaining feel too, and it could be your typical carbon factory pads are getting a bit hot with what you are doing and robing you of both feel and possibly performance too.
Its all trial and error you need to look at where your stock pads are letting you down and then if say you are on a typical dry weather backroad run getting a bit of wooliness through the leavers 10 miles in a simple swap to a lower end sauntered pad might restore some of that efficiency feel and safety. You dont have to be pushing high speeds to need such an upgrade lots of heavy braking brake dragging etc in low speed stunts or even city trafic courier work will heat up the brakes to such an extent a swap from stock could restore efficiency.
The softer sauntered brake linings wont generally loose out on stone cold bite and feel but hold out longer when needed.
Look into what you got installed and what you are doing and if you are loosing out anywhere a swap could be a braking advantage for your application.
I thought my GSA had wimpy front brakes. I changed the pads to sintered HH. I got about a 10% improvement. Now, I've been using them for a year and they feel another 10% better. Biting very nicely now.
 
I’m still working on editing my wet pavement brake test video. I’m having trouble figuring out how to add text to it for context. I know you’re all on the edges of your seats waiting for it to drop. :lol2 It’s been fun learning how to edit video though.
 
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