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Effetiveness will depend on the alloy and how its been treated. Often there is tempering after hardening to avoid brittleness- but all that depends on the alloy, temps, durations, quenches vary.

Wouldnt hurt to try it, since the wrenches are cheap- but some testing after to test brittleness would be good..
 
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So I can't add much in the way of useful knowledge, but I find This Old Tony on YouTube informative and funny. Not sure how to embed a video but the following link talks a little bit about heat treating. He also has a few other videos about it in his playlist.



Edit..I see that the video embedded. Even a blind squirrel finds a nut every once and awhile.
 
Just picked up an older used 8-1/4" Delta compound miter saw my GF spotted on fb marketplace just across town. It's been put away wet but it works. Should at least be good for cutting slugs for lathe projects. Freebie, zip, zero, nada.

Pic from a manual I found online, add ten years of aging on an unenclosed first floor porch and lose the guards.
Screenshot_2023-01-28-11-39-54.png
 
Finally back from vacation and got my new toy setup, need to work on that hose routing but otherwise Im pretty happy with it so far, cant wait for some free time to really make some cuts Tuesday and see how big of a difference it makes
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Does anyone here have a link or a cheat-sheet for angles to grind on HSS lathe bits for different uses? It seems like it should be easy to find, but I only find the info for a single RH turning tool. I want to be able to grind decent roughing, facing, finishing, grooving, and round-nose tools. I'm sure I can trial and error my way to the other tools, but it seems like reinventing the wheel. TIA.
 
palada said:
Does anyone here have a link or a cheat-sheet for angles to grind on HSS lathe bits for different uses? It seems like it should be easy to find, but I only find the info for a single RH turning tool. I want to be able to grind decent roughing, facing, finishing, grooving, and round-nose tools. I'm sure I can trial and error my way to the other tools, but it seems like reinventing the wheel. TIA.
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I don't have a link or s video title handy, but Blondihacks on YouTube has some videos on tool grinding. She's a great teacher and does not cut corners on stuff. I really enjoy her channel and have learned tons from her.
 
I like Blondihacks a lot- she shows lots of detail of the ops and shows the mistakes also... quite a few other youtube machinists only show the successes.
 
Andrew said:
This wuz phun… I saw it on ‘tube and thought to give it a try. It’s not finished, needs filing and buffing, and I’m going to add a magnetic base.

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If I could learn to do that I could have the confidence to build a crankshaft for a mini engine. I'm itching to machine an engine from scratch. Too many other projects I've promised first.
 
Shinyribs said:
If I could learn to do that I could have the confidence to build a crankshaft for a mini engine. I'm itching to machine an engine from scratch. Too many other projects I've promised first.
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Three-jaw chuck, with one jaw out of step, so the brass rod has an off-center axis. Then just index/rotate the rod for each cut with a parting blade. It’s as simple as that, conceptually.
 
Picked up a Clausing 8520 in fair condition today. Missing the base and the motor mount is cobbled together. The only functional issue I see is the Y axis leadscrew is pretty worn and there's a half-turn of backlash. X is fine. It looks like those screws have to be made again from acme stock. I have a lathe, but that's above my skill level, so I'll have to find a place to help with that. The mill only cost $700, so I don't mind putting a few hundred into it. With any luck, it won't be a money pit.

I'm planning to clean it up a bit before I try to use it. It's filthy and it looks like someone used grease instead of oil on the dovetails. Someone put the on/off switch on the side of the knee, so I'll move that, otherwise it's a hazard because fluids can get in there.
 

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palada said:
Picked up a Clausing 8520 in fair condition today. Missing the base and the motor mount is cobbled together. The only functional issue I see is the Y axis leadscrew is pretty worn and there's a half-turn of backlash. X is fine. It looks like those screws have to be made again from acme stock. I have a lathe, but that's above my skill level, so I'll have to find a place to help with that. The mill only cost $700, so I don't mind putting a few hundred into it. With any luck, it won't be a money pit.

I'm planning to clean it up a bit before I try to use it. It's filthy and it looks like someone used grease instead of oil on the dovetails. Someone put the on/off switch on the side of the knee, so I'll move that, otherwise it's a hazard because fluids can get in there.
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I dont know what length and diameter you need but it may be cheap enough to buy some of threadall like this

openbuildspartstore.com

8mm Metric Acme Lead Screw

SHOP NOW - 8mm Metric Acme Lead Screw! Fast Shipping from U.S. - Genuine OpenBuilds Parts - #1 Open Source Hardware
openbuildspartstore.com openbuildspartstore.com
 
Green Bay Manufacturing is a good source for acme rod in a variety of alloys and sizes- they have acme nuts also, in cast iron and bronze. Good stuff!
 
And depending on your budget and your project there are old office chairs being put out on the curb with perfectly good acme screw bases.
 
What I found online about leadscrew replacement: "The original cross-slide leadscrew is 11/16" x 10 tpi L.H. and is about 12.5" long." It goes on to say no one sells 11/16" and then describes the process to make a custom one in 3/4" that goes into some steps that are beyond my skills.

I'm not in a hurry, so I'll check with Clausing first, though I understand I'll get sticker shock. I also want to take a better look at the disassembled mill to make sure this isn't just one of many expensive things to replace before I commit to expensive parts. Gives me something to tinker with for a while.
 
Camhead64 said:
The Clausing does not have lead screw nut adjustments?
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probably. There’s a few things I need to go through to get a better understanding of the work it might need. I can see some wear on the lead screw, but maybe it’s “good enough”. Gibs are too tight on the ends of the travel, but ok in the middle, so it might need ways ground. All I did yesterday is pick it up and unload in my garage. That took all day so i won’t really check it out for at least a few days.
 
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I thought the ways on my lathe may have been boogered up as the cartridge was free near the chuck and got tighter as you traveled away, about like what you describe. Turns out it just needed a good cleaning. Ages of congealed gunk and a couple small dings that I was able to rub down with a simple blade sharpening stone made it consistent all the way.

Fingers crossed it's just gunk!
 
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