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I don’t get to do fun stuff anymore. Life has been only software side since forever.
[UWSL]Had nice 5x toys long ago. Was real damn handy when it came time to make these. [/UWSL]

[UWSL]Have 2 in my office for book ends. Can’t throw them out, the stock was $400 a chunk in 2005 (7075). [/UWSL]

[UWSL]Made insane chips on these parts. It was a lot of stock to blow out. [/UWSL]

F0807ACC-5465-47F8-A045-18200A112654.jpeg

A36EB15B-BAB1-4709-A64B-DE0FAA6501E9.jpeg
 
here is a nice video series of how make a steam engine from Start to Finish

 
JohnQ said:
I don’t get to do fun stuff anymore. Life has been only software side since forever.
[UWSL]Had nice 5x toys long ago. Was real damn handy when it came time to make these. [/UWSL]

[UWSL]Have 2 in my office for book ends. Can’t throw them out, the stock was $400 a chunk in 2005 (7075). [/UWSL]

[UWSL]Made insane chips on these parts. It was a lot of stock to blow out. [/UWSL]

F0807ACC-5465-47F8-A045-18200A112654.jpeg

A36EB15B-BAB1-4709-A64B-DE0FAA6501E9.jpeg
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As a Structural Engineer I specified metric tons of 7050-T7451 back in the day when I worked at Boeing on the 777 Wings.
Got to spend quite a bit of time in Auburn WA where real craftsman machined huge parts, 3x at a time, on one machine.

Wish I had photos from the early to mid 1990's, cool stuff.
 
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In a basement cleanout I snagged a nice piece of 1/2" 7075 plate- very pretty. Made a pair of vise jaws from it, keeping the rest for special occasions. I love how it cuts, hard enough to make me think of steel.
 
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Yup, DROs are dirt cheap nowadays. Really can simplify things. I like them for the ease to see with the large readouts

I also know some old timers , that still use the micrometers ...
 
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I've been thinking a bunch about putting a 2 axis on my Bridgeport, counting revs on the cranks gets a lot old sometimes :rofl
 
gpounce said:
I've been thinking a bunch about putting a 2 axis on my Bridgeport, counting revs on the cranks gets a lot old sometimes :rofl
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My biggest issue with relying on the micrometer on the handle is going too far and overshooting before a cut. Then, you have to take up slack in the other direction - past where you were. Take up the slack in the right direction, then sneak up on the correct number.

And hope you don't forget where you were.

DRO doesn't care what the handle says as it measures right off the axis itself.
 
Sure.. but I'm looking for bolt hole circles, tool compensation, resetting zeros etc. But dodging backlash would sure be nice also
 
gpounce said:
Sure.. but I'm looking for bolt hole circles, tool compensation, resetting zeros etc. But dodging backlash would sure be nice also
Click to expand...
Don't get me wrong, a DRO on the mill is great and if mine died tomorrow I'd replace it in a heartbeat. But if I could only afford 1 DRO it would be on the lathe.

I was making suppressor baffles out of stainless last week (yes, I have a tax stamp so it's legal). There are some details that are difficult to measure so being able to count on the DRO really helps.

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DRO on the lathe is not something I feel is holding me back, but measuring on the mill with mics is pretty tedious. Especially with certain setups. What are good things to look for when shopping for DRO's? Probably will only be doing 2 axis DRO. I'm not sure if there's a practical way to rig up a DRO on the Z of my particular machine.
 
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Southbend 10K popped up for sale locally. Looks OK for a basic lathe, thoughts ?

dallas.craigslist.org

South Bend Metal lathe 10K (Photos added) - tools - by owner - sale

South bend Metal Lathe Model 10K "Light 10" Model A, with long bed. Quick-change gearbox for threading and autofeed. Power crossfeed and Z-axis (length) feed. Reversible motor and leadscrew Newer...
dallas.craigslist.org
 
South Bends are well regarded and that price seems fair but I'd want to carefully inspect the ways. The pictures are unclear, but it looks like they have scores and gouges.
 
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You never want to see any wear or damage on ways, but it takes a lot to really throw the carriage off. It can glide over a ding here and there. The ways on my old Sheldon look rough in places, but the carriage moves fine and tight. Just have to check her out in person.

The thing about those old machines is it's just like buying land. They're not making any more and it's never going to get cheaper.
 
My old 14" American Tool Works had a huge ridge on the front ways, and had been tipped over backwards sometime in the ancient past which broke the saddle in half. It was fit back together and fastened with 4 capscrews, so slightly twisted. With all that it was still quite accurate for about 10 inches out from the chuck- then the cumulative wear and damage would change things. Generally the bigger "uncollectable" machines are cheaper and quite often of substantially better spec but then you have to move them :) Me, I like a 14" swing lathe but I confess it would be nice to have a little 9" South Bend tucked into the corner of the shop to take the little quickie jobs when the big lathe is all set up for something else.
 
I found this lot of tools, most of the ones in Cardboard are still new, and the others including the Keyways cutters are used, but listed as still in good condition, sharp ish

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60 cutters for $125. How did I do?
 
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