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Milling & Machining
- Thread starter MVI
- Start date
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I can't say it was never damaged, it could have been damaged in shipping, but it is kind of a unique situation. I bought it from a close friend. Small family business, dad and two brothers. They had a job where they had one more operation needed to do on a complicated part. The part was going from machine to machine for different operations. All CNC. Instead of reprogramming/retooling a machine to do this one operation, and screwing up the flow, they grabbed this inexpensive machine and used it to bore one hole on that part after it passed through all the other machines. Never needed it since after acquiring more CNC machines. So it sat all that time in their conditioned shop they work in everyday. Kinda abandoned, but not like it was parked in the corner of a shed or something.
I wish I could figure out a way. It's buried under they table in such a way that I've got to heave the table on and off every time I mess with it.
The saddle is brass and I've got to unfasten the lead screw from both ends of the table (x) and slide that table off to expose the saddle, so nothing left to reference and I worry about the heavy lead screw cantilevering on the cast saddle. The saddle mounts to the "y table" so to speak. The two lower holes in this view. I can't think of a good way to explain it. I can't fit any sort of dial indicator between the tables. I can't really even see it when I'm situ, just feeling for the fasteners. If it's cocking somehow, I can't even get my eyes on it to watch it move.
Shims I have are 25 thou each. Having 0 shims, then stacking 1, 2 and eventually 3 shims made no difference. Original height, +25 tho, +50 thou and +75 thou all gave the same result. Screw is free when saddle is fingertight but binds if tightened. Feels like continuing to raise the saddle in the Z direction isn't helping, and also suggests that it's not really even very sensitive to height. But who knows. I can't confidently say anything at this point 😁
Could try some hemispherical washers, if you can get them thin enough- if there is a nod/twist being imparted to the nut that might help keep it straighter.
eg;
www.mcmaster.com
eg;
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
Alan F.
Well-known member
I just spotted this little chain luber on another forum, looks like an easy project if anyone is bored. I'd imaging a few holes bored straight through and capped off with a pressed in ball bearing like a carb would be pretty easy.
I didn't see a crack, but I also didn't intentionally look for one. Headed back out there after dinner so I'll check closely.
Nope. The only thing I say with confidence is that I got every everything squeaky clean 😁
Thanks for the link. I haven't seen those before. It's a two piece deal with a cupped surface between the two halves, I'm guessing?Could try some hemispherical washers, if you can get them thin enough- if there is a nod/twist being imparted to the nut that might help keep it straighter.
eg;
McMaster-Carr
McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.
hemi washers are thick, and in pairs....
but you have thick parts and have a capability to mill a bit to recess it. But is should not come to this...
you can solve the same thing with several well placed shims, time consuming thou....
but you have thick parts and have a capability to mill a bit to recess it. But is should not come to this...
you can solve the same thing with several well placed shims, time consuming thou....
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Turned out it was just thirsty. Gave it some Pepsi and it's a joy to use now.
Couldn't find a way to get any sort of measuring device in the cavity so just kept trying things until I landed on a winner. I don't know if the mounting surface of the bed or the clamp is what is off since it's not feasible to measure anything, so there won't be any remachining of any surfaces. Shims are there for life now. The next guy can be mad about it. 😁
Couldn't find a way to get any sort of measuring device in the cavity so just kept trying things until I landed on a winner. I don't know if the mounting surface of the bed or the clamp is what is off since it's not feasible to measure anything, so there won't be any remachining of any surfaces. Shims are there for life now. The next guy can be mad about it. 😁
Plenty of old school lathe manufacturers used paper shims to set spacing between bearing caps for spindle bearings- works great and is adjustable for wear by the end user; so you're in good company :) Just maybe don't be a barbarian and trim the excess 
😂😂 This thing was hard to get to, and this was attempt # 137. I got lucky and hit the sweet spot. I wasn't about to take it back down for trimmingJust maybe don't be a barbarian and trim the excess
Surface finish is trash. The cutter is hooched and I don't know what in the heck I'm doing. Not comfortable at all with the graduations on the handwheels and too cheap to spring for a DRO. Planned out the order of operations in such a way that I could use a dial indicator on a mag base to measure over to my next cut. Nailed every dimension to within 0.001". I'm happy with that!
