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Milling & Machining
- Thread starter MVI
- Start date
psykown
Well-known member
Loving these YG-1 endmills, not loving smoking 2 of them within 5 minutes 
. Didn'ttighten down my fixture plate to the table for the first one and the second one was setting the offset and had the jog wheel set to .1" Doesnt work well when you are within that distance from the zero lol Also working with miteebites for the first(ish) time, so far I am very much liking them.
. Didn'ttighten down my fixture plate to the table for the first one and the second one was setting the offset and had the jog wheel set to .1" Doesnt work well when you are within that distance from the zero lol Also working with miteebites for the first(ish) time, so far I am very much liking them.
psykown
Well-known member
Found these ER20 collet holders the other day, with a little luck my mess of collets will finally be tamed. Still need to work on the printers speeds, feeds, and temps but it at least reliable finishes the print! Next up is a better TTS holder, gotta make it easy to get the fiancee run the mill for me 
Alan F.
Well-known member
I just spotted this one, good deal on a small machine.
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/d/fort-lee-harbor-freight-mini-mill-with/7699361941.html
Harbor Freight
Harbor Freight mini mill with extras:
1) Converted to belt drive with kit from Little Machine Shop
2) Installed small 3 axis DRO
3) Comes with HF stand and HTC-2000 Adjustable Mobile Base
4) Included 5 R8 collets
Total spent $1000
Asking $300 firm, need to free the space quickly
https://newjersey.craigslist.org/tls/d/fort-lee-harbor-freight-mini-mill-with/7699361941.html
Harbor Freight
Harbor Freight mini mill with extras:
1) Converted to belt drive with kit from Little Machine Shop
2) Installed small 3 axis DRO
3) Comes with HF stand and HTC-2000 Adjustable Mobile Base
4) Included 5 R8 collets
Total spent $1000
Asking $300 firm, need to free the space quickly
This Lathe was brought to MVI to remove the Tapered bit.
The Lathe's Owner pounded on the Extraction rod until it folded up like a corkscrew.
Seems it was in there for a long time, and it was stored in a garage for many years. It was fused in place from the rust. When it finally let go it, it came out with a loud Bang !
Now I know why I don't like Wood Lathes
The Lathe's Owner pounded on the Extraction rod until it folded up like a corkscrew.
Seems it was in there for a long time, and it was stored in a garage for many years. It was fused in place from the rust. When it finally let go it, it came out with a loud Bang !
Now I know why I don't like Wood Lathes
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Wood-butchers.... what can you do in the end? 
The worst stuck tooling situation Iv'e had was on a B&S #9 horizontal mill. I had put the tooling in with the spindle warm and brought up the drawbar too tight and later couldn't drive out the tooling even with a good bit of heat on the spindle nose. We ended up taking the spindle out of the machine and rigging a piece of pipe around it, with the spindle tail end and tooling far end set up with spacers and nuts and related stuff so when we put a torch on the pipe the expansion would put tension on the taper. Once we got a bunch of the pipe nearly red hot the taper finally broke loose BANG! and all was well. I've been really careful with B&S tapers ever since...
The worst stuck tooling situation Iv'e had was on a B&S #9 horizontal mill. I had put the tooling in with the spindle warm and brought up the drawbar too tight and later couldn't drive out the tooling even with a good bit of heat on the spindle nose. We ended up taking the spindle out of the machine and rigging a piece of pipe around it, with the spindle tail end and tooling far end set up with spacers and nuts and related stuff so when we put a torch on the pipe the expansion would put tension on the taper. Once we got a bunch of the pipe nearly red hot the taper finally broke loose BANG! and all was well. I've been really careful with B&S tapers ever since...
Yarz
Active member
Yarz
Active member
Every time someone talks about persuading tight/rusted bolts, etc. I think of this:
morsetaper2
Well-known member
Anybody need any South Bend 10L (aka heavy 10) lathe parts? I have some headstock parts and some smaller covers from an older single tumbler model that I have had kicking around a bit. I doubt I'll ever use them, esp since my 10L is a later double tumbler model. Send me a PM if you want any details.
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morsetaper2
Well-known member
Not a particularly complex project. But it made something "not so useful" into "way more useful". Just wish I had a stouter bandsaw to work with.
Have a Greenerd #30 3-ton arbor press which was originally designed for elec motor repair. Pressing armatures off, bearings, etc. Got it from HGR pretty cheaply as it had fallen over and broken the racheting mechanism into a bunch of pieces. I just wanted the stand for my Greenerd #3 that didn't have a stand, but took it all. The stand, press frame, & ram were still all good, all else being broken to pieces. After ebay searching found a cheap hacked up 3T arbor press for cheap BIN price that had a good donor pinion I could use to make it operable as non-racheting. Good thing about this is the huge amount of daylight it offers, at 18" capacity.
It came with an 11 x 12 x 3/8 thick plate attached to it which wasn't useful in many cases in that configuration. So I cut the plate down, drilled a sequence of holes up to 1 inch diam as that was the biggest drill I had. Then w/ boring head upped the diameter to 2-1/8. Then rough band-sawed the hole to make it a slot. Then finished all on the the Bridgeport to clean up the saw-cut surfaces. Ground the corner radii w/ a belt sander.
All in all it was like 32 inches of sawing on a Delta-Rockwell 14" wood/metal bandsaw. All total it took well over an hour+ of sawing. Used a 4T blade and let it do all the work. But I don't know how I could have done the cutting any faster on such a light-duty saw? My hand and wrist were definitely feeling that effort.
Pretty happy how it came out. Was thinking the 3/8 plate might flex under load but seems fine w/ my 148 Lbs hanging off the end of that press lever.
Have a Greenerd #30 3-ton arbor press which was originally designed for elec motor repair. Pressing armatures off, bearings, etc. Got it from HGR pretty cheaply as it had fallen over and broken the racheting mechanism into a bunch of pieces. I just wanted the stand for my Greenerd #3 that didn't have a stand, but took it all. The stand, press frame, & ram were still all good, all else being broken to pieces. After ebay searching found a cheap hacked up 3T arbor press for cheap BIN price that had a good donor pinion I could use to make it operable as non-racheting. Good thing about this is the huge amount of daylight it offers, at 18" capacity.
It came with an 11 x 12 x 3/8 thick plate attached to it which wasn't useful in many cases in that configuration. So I cut the plate down, drilled a sequence of holes up to 1 inch diam as that was the biggest drill I had. Then w/ boring head upped the diameter to 2-1/8. Then rough band-sawed the hole to make it a slot. Then finished all on the the Bridgeport to clean up the saw-cut surfaces. Ground the corner radii w/ a belt sander.
All in all it was like 32 inches of sawing on a Delta-Rockwell 14" wood/metal bandsaw. All total it took well over an hour+ of sawing. Used a 4T blade and let it do all the work. But I don't know how I could have done the cutting any faster on such a light-duty saw? My hand and wrist were definitely feeling that effort.
Pretty happy how it came out. Was thinking the 3/8 plate might flex under load but seems fine w/ my 148 Lbs hanging off the end of that press lever.
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TexasAggie
Well-known member
Just bought this from the estate of one of my parent's friends. 60 years ago, this friend helped us build a go cart. We used this drill press a lot doing the build. It was an old WWII surplus buy in 1960. It was decades of dirty so I hit it with WD40 and steel wool and I am happy with the results. Motor runs but needs some TLC. The old belt will be replaced but still let me check the runout and it was .003" so all good there. I will detail it out more but I like the patina and have no plans to paint it.
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morsetaper2
Well-known member
Where was that photo taken? The ceiling and further back looks like a salt mine or some sort of underground storage bunker?