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Milling & Machining
- Thread starter MVI
- Start date
Nicely done.So I jokingly mentioned that I had some titanium lying around and could just make our wedding rings, and she actually liked the idea so.......now I have one good ring cut
Running a 6flute Lakeshore Carbide cutter for the roughing and cleaning up with a noname 1/8 4flute ballnose. Other than it loading up a little during the helical ramp in it cut beautifully. Made a little plug out of aluminum to keep from crushing it in the vice and then just cut some easy softjaws for op 2. The worst part of the job ended up being a blessing in disguise, I ran the very cheap edgefinder into the top of the stockand trashed that. So ordered a Mitutoyo edgefinder and Tormach touch probe to replace it. That Mitutoyo is so much nicer! Touch probe I'll find out about in a few more days.
And the most important person really likes her ring, now off to see what colors I can turn that extra one I don't like.
Cutting off a titanium ring can be difficult.
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I did say etc.I was hoping for something involving zombies or commuting...
I've though about it too, and it really couldn't hurt anything to add it. It'd be more to protect the saw than me, to be honest. Chains and bars are pretty easily damaged, but theyy also consumables and pretty cheap. As Mad Max as it looks, there's really not much chance in hurting yourself with it mounted. Even the hot saw muffler is in the mount in such a way that you couldn't fall on it if you crashed, the bar would most likely just get managed in an crash.
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We live on a 100 acre piece of property. I rarely ride my dirt bike anywhere else. I'm constantly cutting new trails and pre existing trails require constant maintenance. When all my current trails are open and in good condition you can ride a continuous loop that takes about 60 min depending on your skill level or weather. Our forests are mostly hardwoods which are famous for having brittle limbs and our clay soil prevents roots from reaching deep. Every time it rains or the wind blows, I'm out clearing trails. I have fun doing it, but carrying the saw on foot and hoofing it around the property...I'm too lazy for that 😁
Probably posted these somewhere in the thread before they were finished. Extra large bar end weights for my DesertX, slotted to allow Bark Busters to sit flush in them. My buddy finally got enough guns in the que to fire up his bluing tanks this week and ran these through for me, the salts he's using produce more black vs blue but I still dig the look.
Stormdog
Well-known member
Some guys in the club use the fork mounted saw racks, I just couldn’t adjust my riding to the weight of the saw up there.
I switched to a backpack that works well, but does take two people to be efficient.
The bonus is that I can switch between the trials bike and trail bike depending on conditions.
I switched to a backpack that works well, but does take two people to be efficient.
The bonus is that I can switch between the trials bike and trail bike depending on conditions.
I want one of these small format machings
littlemachineshop.com
HiTorque Bench Mill, Long Table, Deluxe 6570
Milling Machines 6570 Factory installed 3-axis DRO with hard wired display; 750 watt (1 hp) brushless DC variable speed drive; Tapping mode for revers...
psykown
Well-known member
So I need a little ring holder idea to mill for my desk at work. I do a lot of varied jobs and don't want to wear the wedding ring when I am doing more manual labor. Any ideas? Looking for something sleekish that I can show off my machining a little with.
If you really want to show off, machining a copy of your left hand comes to mind.
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I was shocked and it's surprising how much you feel that weight on there. It feels awful and I'm always glad to take it off when clean up day is done.
That's why when I see guys kitting out their dirt bikes to be the next adv hero with all the towers/windshields/garmins/phone mounts, etc, etc...im thinking, "Don't do that. Makes a cool picture, but don't do it" 😄
psykown
Well-known member
I like both those ideas they might be a little much for me at the moment though lol I got lucky nobody was in today at work so I got to just play and poke around on our new machine, didn't cut anything but it was nice to familiarize. Tomorrow is time to start making cool stuff!
If it's a frame mounted fairing, it will have less on the bars than a regular enduro. Also less reaction to wind.
That makes sense. Something about me just doesn't gel with windshields. Twice I've gone to buy tourers specifically to enjoy the wind protection I'd been hearing about, and both times I was happy to get back on a naked bike.
A buddy of mine has a '92 Nighthawk which a previous owner had installed an aftermarket windscreen, which he really wanted to keep. During one of the services I do on his bike I had the screen off to rebuild and refit some of the old degraded plastic mounting hardware. After I had it ready to go back on he decided to leave it off. He said the bike looked and rode a lot better without- I agree.
There is a compromise, the Tenere with the adjustable windshield kit is the sweet spot for me. KLR was too small. Doing long trips at speed, the windshield really cuts down on fatigue. With the T7 windshield up about 2", it has airflow underneath it. This gives you some air with the majority of flow going over your head. Also no buffeting.
I'm think of buying collets and associated tooling for my mill. It has an R8 spindle and my R8 collets are complete from 1/16 to 3/4 in 1/32 increments. Would like some advice from people that have more experience than me.
I want collet blocks for the vice. Always finding myself wanting them. Any reason to do 5C over ER style?
Is there any reason to get an ER40 to R8 adapter? Not really gaining much there. In ER32 size I would gain no capacity at all, so if I go with ER to R8 adapter it seems that ER 40 would be the sensible choice.
I thought about getting an ER40 collet mount to put on the rotary table. It's always a struggle/ time sink getting stuff fixtured to the rotary table. Especially on center. A 3 or 4 jaw chuck would give way more capacity over collets, but a chuck on a rotary table is going to add up weight real quick. 4 jaw would allow easy clamping for non- round things.
My main goal is to gain collet blocks for use in the vise and find a way to easily fixture and center items on the rotary table. What would you do?
I want collet blocks for the vice. Always finding myself wanting them. Any reason to do 5C over ER style?
Is there any reason to get an ER40 to R8 adapter? Not really gaining much there. In ER32 size I would gain no capacity at all, so if I go with ER to R8 adapter it seems that ER 40 would be the sensible choice.
I thought about getting an ER40 collet mount to put on the rotary table. It's always a struggle/ time sink getting stuff fixtured to the rotary table. Especially on center. A 3 or 4 jaw chuck would give way more capacity over collets, but a chuck on a rotary table is going to add up weight real quick. 4 jaw would allow easy clamping for non- round things.
My main goal is to gain collet blocks for use in the vise and find a way to easily fixture and center items on the rotary table. What would you do?
I run ER32 generally; I have ER chucks in R8 for the bridgeport and 40-taper for the horizontal. Having invested in that stuff I went ahead and got square and hex collet blocks, which I use quite often for all kinds of stuff that needs holding of round things. I tend to like the ER collets and the ER nuts with ball bearings do make setup/teardown a bit faster.
I recently got some 5C stuff for a indexer, there is a huge variety of 5C compatible tooling out there. I sprung for a cheapie 5C mounted 3-jaw chuck for the indexer just for funsies and its actually pretty good... ER is just collets.
A hex collet block in a 3-jaw lathe chuck works really well for small stuff in the lathe, but 5C blocks would also. Square blocks for the 4-jaw of course- same idea.
If you do end up going for ER, I'd suggest buying the collet chucks from Maritool. Made in the US, cost competitive and excellent quality. THey sell sets of collets too, though its a bit cheaper to buy them onsey-twosey as you need them.
I recently got some 5C stuff for a indexer, there is a huge variety of 5C compatible tooling out there. I sprung for a cheapie 5C mounted 3-jaw chuck for the indexer just for funsies and its actually pretty good... ER is just collets.
A hex collet block in a 3-jaw lathe chuck works really well for small stuff in the lathe, but 5C blocks would also. Square blocks for the 4-jaw of course- same idea.
If you do end up going for ER, I'd suggest buying the collet chucks from Maritool. Made in the US, cost competitive and excellent quality. THey sell sets of collets too, though its a bit cheaper to buy them onsey-twosey as you need them.
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