What's new
By:
Filters

The DR650 Thread

Gravelcruiser said:
No, the springs merely supply force to the clutch pack. This is just a thought, and I'm sure youve checked, but do you have the right amount of fibers and steels in there? Since a bolt head twisted off, and you can't disengage the clutch, It makes me think the clutch pack itself is too thick.
Click to expand...
Correct amount. I've counted that about three dozen times. :lol2

You can feel the pressure when moving the arm back and forth. The resistance of the four springs. And it pops right back when you release it. So it feels like it should be working.
 
I've done about half a dozen clutches- first time I've ever had and issue. :flush
 
r650se-2006-k6-usa-e03-clutch_big3IMG00899258_1ff9.gif


Does it make a difference the orientation of 21 and 23? Like, do I have to have that exact? I just slide the 23 over until its snug- adjust clutch lever accordingly.

Even then, I rotate 23 outwards and use a small extension to do it by hand. Hold the "clutch in", if I spin the wheel with the bike off, you can feel the thunk as the gears inside bind up. Its stopping on something.
 
I also never removed the clutch basket. I went as far as removing the very first steel plate held in by the safety wire.
 
This one has me baffled. I was looking at my manual also and there is no reference as to where the actuator arm is positioned. So I would say slacken the cable the full amount to get the maximum throw available then position the arm on the shaft. The clutch is a simple mechanism that shouldn't be causing us this frustration lol. I did see that there is one friction plate that is different from the others that goes in first, I assume you saw that as well. The only other thing I can think of is if the clutch plates themselves are thicker than OEM, that might not allow the pull rod achieve the necessary gap with the pressure plate.
 
Gravelcruiser said:
This one has me baffled. I was looking at my manual also and there is no reference as to where the actuator arm is positioned. So I would say slacken the cable the full amount to get the maximum throw available then position the arm on the shaft. The clutch is a simple mechanism that shouldn't be causing us this frustration lol. I did see that there is one friction plate that is different from the others that goes in first, I assume you saw that as well. The only other thing I can think of is if the clutch plates themselves are thicker than OEM, that might not allow the pull rod achieve the necessary gap with the pressure plate.
Click to expand...
yea, #2 plate. Thats the one that sits behind the safety wire.
 
woods said:
yea, #2 plate. Thats the one that sits behind the safety wire.
Click to expand...
Maybe I'm not understanding what you meant but the #2 steel is first then circlip, then the #2 fiber, then the rest. Not too insult, just making sure.
 
Ok, seems as though I have this sorted.

I had it all assembled and took the bike off the stand. I go to get on it, and the bars are bent waaaaaaay forwards. On the lift, I had loops around the bars to stabilize it. Well, it got tight over time, and slowly flipped the bars forwards into the seat, cocking the clutch cable.

Loosened the bars, set them back, and redid the cable.

Did two laps around the yard. Shifts fine.

But what I did fuck up, #2 fiber. Totally overlooked that. I did the #2 steel plate, but not the fiber. Looks like I'm digging into this again to make sure they are in order.
 
Dad and I went out for about 130 miles yesterday. bike ran perfect. I need to readjust the bars a little bit, but overall the bike is spot on. good feeling ripping that thing down some dirt roads.
 
Ok let's do a hypothetical question. If DRs ceased to exist, what would you ride instead? KLRs are heavy, XRs are short lived, KTMs need a top end before a DR needs its first oil change ( ok, not really, but almost).
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top Bottom Back Refresh