Bike looks Great Jim !!!Finished up the project K1200RS and set it aside for the week I will be in Cancun.
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What did you do in your garage today?
- Thread starter Yinzer Moto
- Start date
Boris
Well-known member
Realized what I thought was an extra Centech AP-2 was actually a burned out Centech AP-2.
Ordered a few things to clean up the electrical hookup on the R1100GS and to hook up dimmed LED lights with a high beam bypass on the ST1300. Ordered these things from the garage so it counts.
The other day I also did front pads / bleed, and painted the rusty passenger backrest to get that back on the GS.
Really dying to get the GS off the lift so I can start tearing into my old tiger 1050 which needs a couple cylinders / rings. I really miss riding that bike.
Ordered a few things to clean up the electrical hookup on the R1100GS and to hook up dimmed LED lights with a high beam bypass on the ST1300. Ordered these things from the garage so it counts.
The other day I also did front pads / bleed, and painted the rusty passenger backrest to get that back on the GS.
Really dying to get the GS off the lift so I can start tearing into my old tiger 1050 which needs a couple cylinders / rings. I really miss riding that bike.
Soggy Biscuit
Well-known member
Put the Risk Racing Seal Doctor to use again. No more colored oil on the forks but now I can't tell if what's on them is the Vaseline or what. 
Boris
Well-known member
Kept trying to mount the old tractor manual tube to the tusk rack on the GS. Not happy with it as it's too short to mount it to any locations I want it on. I'm going to get a PVC pipe, cut it to length, and mount it with big hose clamps. Don't feel like spending $50-100 on a box that may or may not fit with my specific bar locations. There's a cross bar that makes locating the cap difficult.
Good spot. If you slip some shrink tube over the clamps it'll grip better without marring.Kept trying to mount the old tractor manual tube to the tusk rack on the GS. Not happy with it as it's too short to mount it to any locations I want it on. I'm going to get a PVC pipe, cut it to length, and mount it with big hose clamps. Don't feel like spending $50-100 on a box that may or may not fit with my specific bar locations. There's a cross bar that makes locating the cap difficult.
Boris
Well-known member
Went back and remounted it a way that I like a lot more. It's more stable, less prone to twist downward. The panniers fit fine with it on there, too. Thanks for the tip on the shrink tube. It looks good. The 2nd clamp is too fat for any of my shrink tubes so I just put some electrical tape on it for now.
I still want to mount PVC tool tubes because it's probably double the volume and could hold my tire pump and jumper cables easily.
For reference, here's how the previous owner of my previous GSA mounted a few PVC tool tubes. I think I could do something similar but have the tube on the inside instead of hanging off the bottom.
I still want to mount PVC tool tubes because it's probably double the volume and could hold my tire pump and jumper cables easily.
For reference, here's how the previous owner of my previous GSA mounted a few PVC tool tubes. I think I could do something similar but have the tube on the inside instead of hanging off the bottom.
Soggy Biscuit
Well-known member
Finally solved the fork seal leaking issue. Now the next thing I gotta do is buy a new rear tire and have it balanced and installed at a local motorcycle shop. Its tread is less than a quarter inch deep in the middle. It's making for a somewhat rough ride. Front tire is fine.
Makes sense to me. Thanks for the explanation! 👍🏻Monster Magnets, Magic Mirrors are a way to attach Spyder mirrors magnetically. Why? Because to do just about anything in depth on mine, (an RTS) the mirrors will come off. Furthermore, it does away with mirror shake and breakable parts. From my understanding, some European bikes use a similar scheme to attach parts, a pin and a wire spring. With factory components in place, mild violence is necessary to unseat the pins from the springs in the mirrors,which can and will lead to eventual breakage. We have all done it. First picture is the spring and pin system.
Next picture hopefully explains where the plastic plates were ,now replaced with steel.
On the bike side, magnets go where the pins were, and grab onto the steel plates on the mirrors.
Electrical connector is for the turn signal in the mirror housing. No move vibrating mirrors, much easer mirror removal and reattachment. Make sense so far? Good.
David
Been gone on the road working all week and felt like some shop time would do me good Friday night
Added some tie down slots in to a set of mounting brackets I fabbed up
Painted, an curing overnight
Drilled holes , and set the job box where it will live for the rest of it's life
Added some tie down slots in to a set of mounting brackets I fabbed up
Painted, an curing overnight
Drilled holes , and set the job box where it will live for the rest of it's life
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FLrider
Well-known member
Took the GSA apart so I can ship the suspension out to Ted Porter. I forgot what an absolute clusterF it is to take the suspension out of the bike…. 
The rear one dumped oil out so it needs seals and whatever else they find. The front is still fine but why take the risk so it is going in too. Thank goodness for the ABBA lift…
At least it gives me an opportunity to really deep clean the bike. The amount of bugs, sand and dirt is unreal…
The rear one dumped oil out so it needs seals and whatever else they find. The front is still fine but why take the risk so it is going in too. Thank goodness for the ABBA lift…At least it gives me an opportunity to really deep clean the bike. The amount of bugs, sand and dirt is unreal…
I finally got a covid project going again- a variable speed vfd controlled air compressor. Back in 2020 I scored an old craftsman piston compressor which is nice and QUIET, took off the rotten hose and regulator and related junk which wasn't working anyhow. Then plumbed in decent pipes, gauge, pressure transducer and so on, wrote some software for a microcontroller to run it, put on a vfd and 3phase motor. All that junk works, just have to integrate. At the last minute I added an unloader valve, so today was go get that located and tubing bent.
You know that thing where when appying connectors to wire and you forget to put the shroud on first, then have to take it all apart again? Its even moreso when setting up tubing with compression fittings because if you bend the tubing at the wrong moment you can't even get the compression fittings on properly, and thats after forgetting to put them on first...
You know that thing where when appying connectors to wire and you forget to put the shroud on first, then have to take it all apart again? Its even moreso when setting up tubing with compression fittings because if you bend the tubing at the wrong moment you can't even get the compression fittings on properly, and thats after forgetting to put them on first...
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motocopter
Well-known member
The LiFePo4 battery arrived the other day. Today, it was wired to provide off-grid power. An inverter connects to the red gang plug and a solar panel connects to the coiled cables.
The battery box was made about a year ago for easier handling of 67 pound AGM batteries.
This setup can be taken in any vehicle or used at the house. Really I want it for camping and powering a coffee maker.
Once I mount the solar panel on the Tacoma, I'll post a picture (later in April).
Really like the lightweight of the LiFePo4 battery over the previous AGM batteries.
The battery box was made about a year ago for easier handling of 67 pound AGM batteries.
This setup can be taken in any vehicle or used at the house. Really I want it for camping and powering a coffee maker.
Once I mount the solar panel on the Tacoma, I'll post a picture (later in April).
Really like the lightweight of the LiFePo4 battery over the previous AGM batteries.
Boris
Well-known member
Wrapped up the wiring job on the GS. Put it all back together and took it for a spin. Spit oil all over my left pant leg.
I had replaced the oil filler cap while it was on the lift. I had broken the "lower" part of it so I took the old lower, changed out the gasket, and used the new upper with the old lower. Anyway, that was worse than the original lower + upper oil filler cap that was on there. Spit a lot of oil out. Ordered a couple more replacement caps, and I'll be more careful putting the new one in. Wondering if there's a better design out there because I hate this one.
I had replaced the oil filler cap while it was on the lift. I had broken the "lower" part of it so I took the old lower, changed out the gasket, and used the new upper with the old lower. Anyway, that was worse than the original lower + upper oil filler cap that was on there. Spit a lot of oil out. Ordered a couple more replacement caps, and I'll be more careful putting the new one in. Wondering if there's a better design out there because I hate this one.
JimVonBaden - Any suggestions?
JimVonBaden
Kool Aid!
What year GS? There are a few good replacements out there. Also, make sure you carefully remove the mold flashing on the inside part before installing it.