UpthumbsThe rear is worse and I just ordered all the pins, seals and clips today.
UpthumbsThe rear is worse and I just ordered all the pins, seals and clips today.
Thanks. I didn't check the pins for straightness. That's sound advice. What would you use to clean up the blind hole in the aluminum caliper?Be careful you don't wallow the hole only to discover a bent pin. Been there, done that, spongy brakes for life. I've got a bike now with a floppy caliper because of a loose fitting pin. Makes you wish everything was radially mounted.
This is the way 😁Radial mount is nice but it wouldn't solve my core problem. Lack of proper maintenance. I pad slapped it once and cleaned it up periodically and just expect it to keep on truckin' indefinitely?
Used a chainsaw mill and a skil saw to make our dining table a few years ago. From an Ash that fell in a storm. I was a noob and didn't let the wood dry long enough and it twisted itself all up. The original bread board ends were twisted beyond repair and I don't have any more Ash to replace them. Ended up cutting them in to strips and combined them with some oak strips to make a sort of herringbone pattern.
Took a few weeks but it's finally rebuilt. And flat! No more plates wobbling on the table 😁
It’s clean but has some striations that I can feel with a plastic pick. That’s what I was trying to buff out last night.A non-metallic bore brush by hand or drill, along with a solvent that won't eat the brush, and compressed air should clean up that blind bore. Use lots of solvent in a spray bottle & lots of air until clean.
I'd say 50/50. But the 18k mile brake fluid might shift it more to 70/30. 😁What’s the chances of me getting the pistons out, polished up and back in without having new seals? I really want to ride this weekend.
Not very good odds.💀💀I'd say 50/50. But the 18k mile brake fluid might shift it more to 70/30. 😁
Thanks.I wouldn't take the pistons out without replacement seals anyway. Too much risk of nicking a seal IMO.
Maybe someone can give me some advice here.
My brakes are dragging.
This pin binds up in the caliper.
I polished it up with 2000 grit and got some small bits and galling off of it.
It’s still binding. With a plastic pick I can feel some scoring in the caliper.
So I’m using some 2000 grit on a stick to try to smooth it out.
It’s so nice out and I should be riding. Anyone have any suggestions or am I on the right track here?
On one hand I'm flattered that you think I deserve nice things. 👍Sell it and buy a new bike, you deserve nice things.
I bet you the quad seal groove is full of corrosion. This will put extreme pressure on the pistons. I make a piston puller from 2 pieces of 1/2" square tube or bar stock with a small piece of wood or a socket. Basically inside out pliers. The seal can stick to the piston on one side and rock the piston. This will create a shelf in the caliper bore. I tore mine apart. Used a curved diamond needle file to carefully remove the shelf. I cleaned out the seal grooves. Wiped down the terrible looking seals. I also had to deburr the piston where the chrome plating flaked off. Threw everything back together with no leaks and better brakes than ever.On one hand I'm flattered that you think I deserve nice things. 👍
Yet on the other hand I'm slightly offended that you don't think my bike is "nice".
Just kidding. It is getting a little rough; the brakes drag because 2/3's of the cylinders are seizing up, it's leaking oil at an increasingly concerning rate, the forks seem to be weeping more and more, the rear shock is squishy, I'm at nearly triple the valve check interval and it's really starting to sound like it, despite all the bound links in the chain the adjusters are still maxed out, I have pieces of old mudflaps and inner tubes zip tied to the handlebars as wind deflectors with some 3"x2mil packaging tape (the good shit!) to seal up the gaps, it's got some zip tie stitches in the plastics. But otherwise it's fine. One owner. Meticulously maintained. Ran when parked. $6,700 firm. Serious Inquiries only.
There was a brand new KLX300 at the shop today. I briefly considered buying it.
Don't play with that chain, man. I let a lot of shit slide, but chains are place I won't skimp on. Kinky chains are asking for busted cases or busting your ass if the rear locks up.On one hand I'm flattered that you think I deserve nice things. 👍
Yet on the other hand I'm slightly offended that you don't think my bike is "nice".
Just kidding. It is getting a little rough; the brakes drag because 2/3's of the cylinders are seizing up, it's leaking oil at an increasingly concerning rate, the forks seem to be weeping more and more, the rear shock is squishy, I'm at nearly triple the valve check interval and it's really starting to sound like it, despite all the bound links in the chain the adjusters are still maxed out, I have pieces of old mudflaps and inner tubes zip tied to the handlebars as wind deflectors with some 3"x2mil packaging tape (the good shit!) to seal up the gaps, it's got some zip tie stitches in the plastics. But otherwise it's fine. One owner. Meticulously maintained. Ran when parked. $6,700 firm. Serious Inquiries only.
There was a brand new KLX300 at the shop today. I briefly considered buying it.
I know better but I haven't taken it seriously. It means more coming from an experienced rider. Thank you. 👍Don't play with that chain, man. I let a lot of shit slide, but chains are place I won't skimp on. Kinky chains are asking for busted cases or busting your ass if the rear locks up.
I've been a DID snob for years but a couple years ago I tried a couple Firepower chains that a buddy at the bike shop vouched for. He gets more commission if he sells me a more expensive chain and I trust him. They've been perfectly fine (still in use) and a good oring one is like $65.